Grado 3D Print Removable Cable Mod (With Guide!)

Greetings all!

I'm sure many of you are in the same boat as me where you HATE the current state of Grado's cable situation. After getting a few of my beard hairs ripped out by the nylon sleeve they decided to put over it I thought enough was enough and sat down to make this mod. I've seen some of the mods that involve using a hair dryer to soften the glue and open the housing but I just didn't want to deal with heat around the drivers. So I made this one where you only need to cut the cable to a length and this slips over the original housing. The files are here if you want to remix it and modify it for MMCX or 2 Pin connectors. Just be sure to credit me. I was able to use both my Meze 99's cable and my Hifiman He-4xx's cable. 

Some notes before jumping into the build guide. I made 2 versions of the mount. One that uses Voron style threaded inserts and and one that you can use a self tapping screw, one with a larger hole and one with a smaller hole. Do test prints to see what will work best for you! While heat shrink tubing to isolate the wires isn't necessary , do use something to make sure that over time things won't shift and touch. This model does need a reasonably calibrated printer to fit since tolerances are pretty close, so do be mindful of that as well. I'll do my best to answer questions and everything if you comment so do let me know if you have any! Now, onto the build! 

Supplies

• 3D Printer (I'm using my Ender 2 Pro)
• Filament of your choice (I did mine in Atomic Filament's Carbon Fiber PETG)
• Wire Stripper
• Safety Glasses
• Small thing of sandpaper (Use fine grit!)
• Wire Cutter/Flush Cutter (Used the blue one that came with my Ender)
• Soldering Iron with solder
• These 3.5 mm Stereo Jack Panel Mount connector (Yes the gold ones will work too)
• Grado SR60-X (Or similar Headphones. Not sure about compatibility with other models)
• A dual 3.5mm Female Jack Headphone Chord (Something like this) 
• Ruler or measuring calipers 
• 6 m3 bolts in 6mm length (Or any similar length and size self tapping screw)
• Voron Style m3 Heated Inserts (If using heated insert version)
• Screwdriver/Allen wrench that matches your bolt/self tapping screw
• Some patience and confidence! You can do this! 

Build Guide

note: for this build guide I show you how to use the heated insert version using my very own Grado SR60-X's. 

Step 1: Modifying the headband. 

Before proceeding, slap those safety glasses on because the parts you cut off in this next step could 100% CAUSE EYE DAMAGE. Besides you only need it for this one step.

In order to do this mod, first remove the earpads and set them aside. You'll then need to modify the clamps that hold the speakers to the headband so that you have room for the slide on body sleeve. This can be done by trimming the clamps like this:

I have removed the cups for ease of display. You can do it with the driver housing still attached. Be careful when you cut because these parts will go flying! Do this to all 4 of the prongs that hang down on each driver clasp. Nothing has to be super exact, but if you need a measurement mine are all sitting around the 1-2mm mark. 

Step 2: Remove the driver units and smooth the plastic out

This might be a slightly scary step for some but it's not as bad as you think! Basically you're going to pry off the driver from the cup. The best way I found to do this was move the little connection pins back (as seen in picture) and then pressing my thumb on the clamp prong until I was able to slide it off and out. If you can get under the lip of that little connector pin and pry that up, it makes things MUCH easier! Do be a fair bit cautious as you don't want to break the plastic, but I've done this a few times now and there doesn't seem to be any cracking)

Once you have done this to both drivers, set them aside for later. Don't lose the pins if they come out! In order to smooth the plastic out from the cuts we just made, I hovered the cut edges over a candle until it was warm and smoothed it over. The same effect can be accomplished with fine sandpaper. Once this is done set the headband aside. You're finished making modifications to it. And now for the fun part…

Step 3: Ridding yourself of that godforsaken cable

You finally get to cut that blasted thing off now! Measure out around 2 (or 50 mm) inches off the base of the driver cup and snip off that cable! Do that for both sides and then work on removing that dumb nylon sheath if yours has it. It can be a pain in the butt, but I just used scissors and snipped away at it until I shaved it down right to the base of the driver housing. 

As you can see I was a bit short on mine, and it still will work fine so don't sweat it. You will then want to strip around 1 inch (26 mm) or so of the heavy black cable sheathing off. Do as much as you'd like really, just leave a little bit left near the bottom for strain relief. I'd do more if you're using heat shrink so that you can have it away from the soldering you're doing so that it doesn't shrink prematurely. Leaving you with what we have above. 

Step 4: Printing the parts

Although I'm sure you might've already gotten to this point, now would be the time to start printing out the parts. Use whatever material or color that you'd like for this. I went with some Atomic Filament Black Carbon Fiber PETG because I thought it would look pretty slick. You'll want to make sure you have a left and right of both the Body Sleeve and the wiring cover. I just did this by mirroring things over the X axis. Everything was printed on my Ender 2 Pro pictured below. (Yes I have a Prusa Mini but no wear resistant nozzle for it)

Step 5: Wiring the connections

This step can be a bit tedious, but I was able to get it to work well with some flux and a bit of patience. You'll start off by stripping away some of the colored wire here like I did in my picture. 

If you're using heat shrink, you don't need a lot so snip a little bit off and slide it over your cables before you continue soldering. If you're going to insulate with glue later, BE SURE TO TEST BEFORE DOING SO!

Now, I am unsure if all of the Grado models use this wiring layout. From what I can say from the SR60-X model, this will be what you do. Since both have a blue with each side having a unique red and a white, the blue will be the grounding wire. You don't actually need to wire it for left or right, as the cable you get (so long as it is marked with a L and R Jack) will take care of that for you. You just need to have them connected to the same pin. The sockets that I got have these numbers which makes it super easy as you can see here: 

So what we are going to do is this: The top prong will be ground, so for each driver you will solder the blue to that top prong. The easiest method for doing this that I found was twisting the wires up and then threading them through the small hole like this:

The same can be done for both the red and white wire on each driver. In order to match the wire prongs, I used the numbers printed on the back. Leaving me to connect the red and white wire to prong #2 as you can see here:

You should actually be able to plug your headphone chord into the jacks to test them now. I used this ‘Right-Left Audio Test' video to confirm each side does it’s own thing. If everything is working as it should, go ahead and move to the next step!

Step 6: Soldering things up

 Make sure the heat shrink is out of the way. I found that folding the wires over with a tweezers can help with this. The final result once you do this and use your heat shrink should be this! 

This is honestly the hardest part of the build, so once you're past this it's all easy sailing and assembly! Feel free to do another test after soldering just to double check. Mine saw zero degradation in audio quality and pulled off the left and right just fine! 

Step 7: Installing the Body Sleeve

Step 7a: Heat set inserts (if using self tapping screws, skip this step) 

Now that your parts have finished printing, you will need to install the heat set inserts if you have chosen to use that version of this file. Doing so is fairly simple as you will see me demonstrate using this PLA part I printed. Take your inserts and place them in the holes of your 3D print like this:

Then use the soldering iron and place the tip in the hole (giggity) of the insert. Don't push as this will cause bulging and ruin the part's fit. You want to let the heat of the insert take it down into the hole slowly (giggity giggity). Once they are flush with the surface, you are done. They should look something like this:

If there is a little extra plastic that oozed upwards then a small file, bit of sandpaper, or smoothing over with the tip of your soldering iron can be done to smooth it out a little bit more. 

Step 7b: Sliding the Body Sleeve over the driver housing

Once your 3D printed parts are all finished up and ready to go, you can begin with assembling things. Start off by separating your left and right pieces. This design is meant to have the screws facing in towards the ear pad so you don't see them on the outside, so once you have your left and right sides separated you'll be left with something like this:

In order to match the sides, basically you want the cable end facing down from the left hand side of the text like this:

Now when slipping the sleeve over the driver housing, there are little U shaped cutouts on the sleeve for when you install the headband once everything is done. Line these up with the holes the best you can before slipping things on. To get the wire through, I thread it through the head like this first and then work on sliding things down:

Since things are meant to be press fit, it is PARAMOUNT that you have things dialed in. Shifting things once it's on isn't impossible but it is annoying. Do this with both of the drivers until they are slipped on and you end up with something looking like this:

Step 8: Securing the jack

Mine came with these little screws that are threaded into the head of the jack. With that screw removed, maneuver the head of the jack through the out hole. Once it's through, take that screw and screw it onto the head of the jack. Tighten it as much as you'd like, as it will be the only thing holding the jack to the housing! You'll also need to tuck the thicker black wire or whatever wires are remaining into that little track. If your pins are slightly too long, gingerly bend them until things fit. Do this for both housings and you should end up with this:

Step 9: Screwing things together

Almost at the finish line! I wouldn't be surprised if you were keen enough to figure these next steps out as there really isn't too much to them, but for those who want to finish it out let's wrap it up! Using the corresponding Wiring Cover, place it over top of this little section and using either your M3 bolts or self tapping screws, secure the cover over top of everything. You should be left with this:

Do this for both housings (as well as another audio test if you'd like to double check things) and all that's left is…

Step 10: Securing things back onto the headband

Final step woohoo! Soon you'll be able to enjoy your Grado's without them getting yoinked around like a ball and chain. This next step is pretty straightforward, but here is something that'll make it easier! The pins that are on connector arms actually move, so if you want an easier time sliding your headphones back, you can push them out so that they look like this:

Tip: if you hate pressing them, in with your fingertips, use the edge of a table and support the back of the arm while pushing down to press the pins up

If you're struggling to find a way, I found that the best approach was down from the driver face. Like so. Do be sure to have the arms facing the right way! They have a textured side and a molded side. The molded side has the bumper for the top slider on it:

Then, once you have it all secured, you and push the pins in and effectively lock everything in place! And tadaaaa! You have officially give your Grados removable cables! Pour yourself a drink, slap the pads back on, and go enjoy your headphones how they were meant to be enjoyed! 

Thank you so much for reading this guide and using my model. If you see anyone uploading these things for money without my consent, do let me know so I can file the proper actions. This isn't something I want money to be made off of. This is me giving to you, the community, a fix that saves you a bit of time. Feel free to leave a heart or a comment, and happy listening! :D