Harry Potter - Deathly Hallows Bluetooth speaker

This design is a Deathly Hallows style case for Bluetooth speaker Creative MUVO 2C. You need to have some skills with electronics, to rebuild the original speaker. I create a simple PCB for a change of switches and a micro USB connector.

PCB for switches: https://bit.ly/2HvR19H

PCB for micro USB: https://bit.ly/33cTAFe

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Prusa

Printer:

i3 MK3

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Notes:

All parts can be printed without supports. The front symbol is a little bit tricky to print, it needs to be printed on the front side on a heatbed, I recommend setting a slower speed of printing.

Post-Printing

Assembly instruction

Components

• Creative MUVO 2C Bluetooth speaker
• PCB for micro switches
• 5 micro switches
• micro USB extension cable OR
• PCB for micro USB
• micro USB connector - molex 47346-0001
• micro USB cable - Ugreen
• fabric
• wires
• OPTIONAL: spray paint
• OPTIONAL: microSD card

Tools

• 3D printer
• Soldering iron
• Screwdriver
• Glue gun
• double side tape
• super glue
• scissors

Painting is optional - if you have a nice looking filament and high quality 3D printed parts, you can skip painting.

Creative MUVO 2C can be easily disassembled. You will need only a screwdriver. Be careful with disconnecting the battery, speaker, and microphone, their connectors can be easily destroyed.

you need to solder the RGB LED to wires. After soldering switches on PCB, you need to solder wires to the original PCB board of the Creative speaker. You can save a lot of work when you avoid desoldering original switches, but instead you only solder wires to them. On both the original PCB and new one are the same text labels matching, this will help you to solder wires to the right pins.

You need to desolder a small red LED from the original PCB and use two wires to solder it to the new PCB (2 last pins) . Be careful of the polarity, you need to keep the same polarity of LED! I recommend to cut RGB LED from the original PCB and do not to desolder, it can take you lots of time and patience. Very carefully solder wires to the RGB LED and to original pins, but again keep in mind polarity. Use longer wires, it will help you to handle RGB LED later.

If you use a PCB for a micro USB connector, you need to attach it with a hot gun. To save time, you can use a usb micro extend cable.

When you solder switches and LEDs, it is good to test if everything is working well. I recommend connecting the speaker and battery to the mainboard to test function. Turn ON the speaker and try if switches and LEDs work well. If so, you can slowly move to assembling part of the whole Harry Potter speaker.

Main body finishing

Prior to that, we need to glue some parts to the new case. Glue 3D printed cover to the passive speaker to cover the original logo. We can use superglue. Glue rubber passive to new case. I used pattex “Chemoprén” (I don't know what it is called in english). I used the same glue “Chemoprén” to glue rubber switches. On top of it, you need to fix the plastic cover with hot glue. This plastic cover needs to be fixed well, and rubber switches need to be able to be pressed. Micro USB connecter needs to be glued to the hole. I used hot glue.

You can use two screws from the original case to screw the original PCB to the new case. After that you need to glue an RGB LED to the case. I used superglue. I recommend to test everything if it fits before you glue it to the case. Other two screws can be used for PCB with switches. Be careful, switches on PCB need to be pressed by rubber switch cover. You need to hear and feel click. You need to connect the microphone back to the main board and glue it to the hole with hot glue.

When you complete the main body, it is good to try if everything works well, connect the battery and speaker and test everything, press all buttons to see if all is working. It is necessary to test it before you close the case. However, before closing the case you need to finish front cover with the Deathly Hallow symbol.

Front cover with fabric

You have to draw the shape of the front cover on the fabric. Cut the shape from fabric and fine-tune size of fabric. Fabric needs to be a little bit smaller than the front case. See the picture. You can attach the front symbol by hand for testing if it looks fine. You need to glue the fabric, I used two sided tape, as it seems to be the easiest way.

Now, you need to screw the speaker on the front cover. You can use the original screws. However, - the screws are too long, so I put under the screws small nuts as you can see in the picture.

Complete the speaker

At this point, you have the main body part completed and the front cover, too. I recommend to test everything again, as the last chance before closing. Carefully connect the speaker and test if everything is working. Before you close the enclosure, you need to connect a new USB micro extension to the mainboard and test if it is charging (red LED turn ON). If you want to use a micro SD card inside, it is good to connect it to the computer by USB and see if it appears as a remote disk. If a micro SD card does not appear as a remote disk, something with data pins on the USB connector is wrong.

It is better to test everything multiple times before we close the enclosure. You must be sure, the speaker works, switches, LED, charging, memory card, data connection with computer, maybe microphone if you want it used, everything works.

Optional: It is good to put inside the body the foam, it helps with quality of sound. fill the corners and empty places with foam. I used a foam for acoustic wall panels.

If everything works well, you can glue the front cover with super glue to the main body. I glued the front cover to the main body only on the corners. The last step is to glue the Deathly Hallow symbol, I used super glue. Speaker is Done!