The Taz 3d printer needs an easier way to adjust the Y axis belt tension, as well as provision to add a Y maximum endstop. This project addresses both those issues.
Please note: This project requires drilling a single hole in your Taz Y idler endplate. Please only proceed if you are comfortable drilling holes in printers.
The tensioner works fine, I haven't tested the endstop allignment yet, so please be aware that portion may change.
Build thread is here:
https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4773&p=28402
Update 1 - The belt mount holes are for m3 bolts, not M5. Be sure and use the correct Heat Set Inserts.
Update 2: new tensioner version and belt block uploaded. this version is a bit stronger and easier to add the lower heat set inserts into. The new tension block allows you to structurally tie the front and rear tower together since you are adjusting the tension at the front anyways.
Unassociated tags: belt tensioner, y axis
The Taz 3d printer needs an easier way to adjust the Y axis belt tension, as well as provision to add a Y maximum endstop. This project addresses both those issues.
Please note: This project requires drilling a single hole in your Taz Y idler endplate. Please only proceed if you are comfortable drilling holes in printers.
The tensioner works fine, I haven't tested the endstop allignment yet, so please be aware that portion may change.
Build thread is here:
https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4773&p=28402
Update 1 - The belt mount holes are for m3 bolts, not M5. Be sure and use the correct Heat Set Inserts.
Update 2: new tensioner version and belt block uploaded. this version is a bit stronger and easier to add the lower heat set inserts into. The new tension block allows you to structurally tie the front and rear tower together since you are adjusting the tension at the front anyways.
Printer Brand: LulzBot
Printer: TAZ 5
Rafts: No
Supports: No
Resolution: 0.5mm Nozzle
Infill: 85% or better
Notes:
Printed in ABS, the bed portions may get warm depending on your setup so PLA is not reccommended.
Instructions:
You will need 1 M4 bolt (12-14mm), 1 M4 washer and 1 m4 Nylock nut. You will also need a m4 bolt sized drillbit, 4 1/4" spacers, 4 bolts to fit said spacers. I think I used 6-32 x 1/4 x 1" nylon spacers and 6-32 cap bolts. But really anything similar will work. You may also want to get longer bolts and add a washer and a nut to the end to secure the idler assembly in the event the m4 bolt fails. You will also need 2 m2 heat set inserts and and 8 short M3 inserts for the replacement Y max endstop target
To install, bolt the drill guide to the idler plate with it and the attached hardware removed from your Taz. Drill the hole and clean any aluminum swarf. Install 2 m2 heat set inserts in the Y maximum endstop plate, and the m3 heat set inserts into the Y max endstop target.
Next thread the 6-32 bolts through the idler plate (note the position of the plate should have the offset side to the right when viewed from the front) and through the Y maximum endstop adaptor plate, then tighten the spacers. Now install the M4 nut into the tensioner, then the stock Taz M8 bolt idler hardware set (2 m8 washers, 2 608zz bearings, 1 M8 bolt and nut) into the idler body and place on the posts as shown in the pictures. Now you can reinstall this on your Taz.
To start, adjust the M4 bolt so you have a 3mm or so gap between the back of the idler assembly and the front of the Y maximum endstop plate where the posts attach. now re-attach the belt usinng the stock lulzbot plates and hardware and get hand tight. Now turn the bolt to adjust tension as needed.
Enjoy!
More pictures and better instructions to follow. Also why dind't someone tell me I had Y and Z swapped?
The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.