[REMIX] She-Ra Sword

Why

A friend asked me to print them a She-Ra sword and sent me a link to this model.

I have adapted the model slightly and generated some optimized 3mf project files in PrusaSlicer.

This remix  allows you to glue the parts around an 555mm long 8mm threaded rod. This will give the sword a bit of weight, but also make it more rigid and less likely to break or snap at the joints.

Attribution

This model was remixed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3334276 created by https://www.thingiverse.com/Polymath314

This remix is licensed under CC attribution 4.0 the same as the original model.

Parts List

• 555mm long 8mm threaded rod.
• Spray plastic gap-filling primer spray.
• Spray paint of your chosen colors.
• Epoxy glue.
• Masking tape.
• Rubber bands or light clamps to secure the model during assembly.
• Printed parts.

Assembly Instructions

• Clean and prep the printed parts by trimming any overprint or stringing.
• Cut the threaded rod so it is no more than 555mm long.
  This is critical as the hole through the model is 560mm maximum any longer and you will not be able to completely enclose it with the printed parts.
• Deburr the cut end(s) of the rod.
• Wash the threaded rod with warm soapy water and let it dry in the sun.
  This is to remove any grease that would affect the epoxy glue.
• Conduct a test fit by placing the parts over the threaded rod.
  • I recommend starting at the handle end. This will confirm the threaded rod is the right length and all parts fit without interference.
  • The fit should not be tight, but neither should it be loose.
  • Once happy with the fit you can proceed to gluing.
• Glue one part of the model to the threaded rod at a time (i.e. both halves),starting with the handle at one end as per your earlier fitting.
• Mix a small amount of epoxy glue, coat the rod channel in the model and press fit the halves around the threaded rod. The cut thread will help create a good bond.
  • You may need to use rubber bands or light clamps to hold it firmly together
• Let the epoxy set for the minimum curing time.
• Repeat the process using the next part (both halves) in the sequence as per your test fit earlier.
• Finish gluing the model with the sword tip. (You can glue the jewel in later to avoid tricky masking)
• Your should not see any exposed threaded rod.
• Sand the model using damp wet and dry sandpaper to even the surface prior to priming.
  I would recommend to lightly sand, or trim excess glue with a knife. (when sanding always use wet and dry sandpaper wet, the plastic filament used has a low melting point and will melt or deform, water will prevent this.
• Let the model dry completely.

Painting

• Always paint in a well ventilated area to avoid breathing fumes or painting other things with over-spray.
• Prepare the model for painting by spraying it with a plastic gap filling primer. (As per the manufacturers instructions). 
  • 2 light coats is better than 1 thick coat.
  • Let the paint dry between coats (as per the instructions).
• Perform a final sand with 1200+ grit wet and dry sand paper to remove any defects (Remember to always sand wet)
• Mask off and paint individual details as per your chosen color scheme.
• Once the paint is dry, you may wish to finish the model with a light sealing varnish, matt or satin will probably be best.

Warning

This is a prop model, but it now contains a 8mm threaded rod. Be careful if and where you swing it as you might cause yourself or someone else an injury. You probably don't want to try and take it onto a plane as carry-on either. :)