2040 Rubber Foot Spacer - 10mm rise

3D printed spacer/riser for rubber feet. Increases height by 10mm using a captive M5 nut and slides into a 2040-style extrusion (Creality for example, Enders, CR-10's, etc.) You will probably need to add between 2mm to 5mm of length onto the bolt to thread into the nut over standard T nuts. For example my rubber feet used M5x18 before, but M5x20 was best for this spacer.

My M3D Crane has the PSU and mainboard underneath with a fan facing down, and it's always sat REALLY low to the ground. It's bugged me, but not enough to do anything about it until I started converting my CR-10 V2 to an under-bed mainboard/PSU setup as well. While I'm printing off some spacers for the CR-10 V2, I might as well print some off for the Crane.

Print in PLA with 3 perimeters for best results -- there should bezero gap for infill to exist between the bottom and the nut hole for maximum torquing strength.PETG can be brittle and has the potential to crack. If you are printing in an enclosure, be mindful of having to potentially print off five or more for PETG, I've had one snap on me with the Drag Chain Adapter I remixed because I wasn't careful (bear in mind there's no screws on that design). PLA splinters far more than it snaps, and with the layer lines being in the same direction as the torquing force for the feet, you run a higher risk of breaking than you would otherwise. Hopefully you break zero, but do be prepared.

This uses mostly the same geometry as Z_Axis_Clip.stl from the Drag Chain Adapter I remixed, except I've adjusted the geometry so it slides in easier. Thismight give it the potential to slide around if you lift the printer -- even the 40mm variant -- however I had to pick the lesser of two evils. The drag chain adapter is a bitch to install and you kinda have to hammer it on there, which is hypercritical for wiring, but for feet I wanted to mitigate the risk of broken parts on install. I might later on add in a captive M3 nut and recessed M3 socket-head cutout to allow some securing mechanism, but that starts to get into the "reinventing the wheel" line of thinking over actual T nuts and by that point it's probably easier to make a generic spacer with four holes in a 10mm square for T nuts and recessed M3 thru M5 bolts anyway. I don't plan on this however.

If your whole printer gets to the point where the 40mm versions are sliding enough for the printer itself to slide as the bed hammers on it, you really shouldn't be using 3D printed T nuts anyway, drill/tap holes in your 2040 for the feet or bare minimum get a proper slide-in T nut setup and call it a day. If there is enough weight on the feet for the whole printer to slide as it prints, that's asking a LOT out of a "friction fit" design, you're infinitely better off with a clamping force (T nuts) and/or a perpendicular degree of freedom (drill/tap) than a 3D printed plastic T nut insert.

With normal speeds and such, the worst you'll have is a foot sliding out of place if you tilt the printer for maintenance etc. Easy/dumb answer for that: get a T nut and a bolt and install it on either side of the feet spacers so they're physically blocked, or use the excuse to print something else off that's T-nuttable and mount it in a way that sandwiches where the feet go so they are physically landlocked both directions from sliding.