Duckling 1lb combat robot

1lb combat robot inspired by Hal Rucker's DUCK!

Print instructions

Duckling build guide

BILL OF MATERIALS

Description
qty
source
Notes
M3x20 cap screw
12
https://www.mcmaster.com/91280A116
One package
30:1 gear motor
6
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12316

Tiny ESC
3
https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-tinyESCv2

Finger Tech Switch
1
https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-mini-switch

M3x6 caps crew
8
https://www.mcmaster.com/91280A102
One package
M3 nuts
12
https://www.mcmaster.com/90592A085
One package
¼” x 20mm aluminum rod Ends tapped for M3
2
https://www.mcmaster.com/9062K26
Will need to be fabricated. If you dont have a lathe, contact Maddi
8-32x3/8in cap screw
4
https://www.mcmaster.com/91251A192
One package
Vtail mixer
1
https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-tinyMixer
Optional depending on your radio
Radio
1
various
Min 3 channel. If you get one that can do v tail mixing, you can omit the v tail mixer
Battery 2S 300mAh
1+
https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=G-2S-mAh
Also available from many other vendors
Battery connector
1
various
Find one that matches the battery you chose

Printing guide
Print 2 23t gears, 2 7t gears , 2 Arms, 1 chassis, 2 arms, 1 front shield 2 left motor clamps, 2 right motor clamps, 1 left weapon motor clamp, 1 right motor clamp. 4 wheels and 4 tires

All parts should be printable without support. The arms and front shield should be printed in the most durable material you can print. These parts should be taking the brunt of the abuse. The chassis and clamps and gears can be printed in a less durable material. Something like PETG or PLA should be ok. There is no reason everything could not be Nylon or similar. There are a few tapped holes in the chassis and arms. This is going to require about 3 perimeters for a solid hold on the thread.

Assembly
Motors should have 2 wires pre-soldered before beginning assembly. A small (20-24gauge) wire should be soldered to the terminals of each motor. A length of about 5 inches should leave plenty of room for attaching to the motor controllers later.

Take your M3 nuts and a 5mm allen wrench and gently press the nuts into all 12 hex shaped holes in the bottom of the chassis. Flip the chassis over and tap the 4 holes M3 that will be used to attach the top plate.

Slide the motors from the outside into the 6 rectangular holes. This should be a tight fit, be careful not to bend any of the gearbox plates. The brass faceplate of the gearbox should be flush with the outside of the chassis.

Now take the ¼” aluminum axles and press them into the ¼” pockets on the outside of the chassis. Then install a 6mm screw from the inside to retain the axle in the chassis.

We can now secure the motors down using the clamps and M3x20mm screws.

Onto the arms. Start by tapping the holes in the end of the arms 8-32. Now press the hex bore gears on the hex portion of the arms. Slide the arms onto the ¼” axle and secure them with an M3x6mm screw and washer. Then press the 10 tooth gear onto the weapon motor shaft. You can now attach the front shield with the 8-32 screws. These are a tight fit, but will go if you are careful.

The fingertech switch should have its mounting holes tapped M3. it can then be bolted into the tab in the chassis using M3x6 screws

Electronics tips
Before attaching the tiny ESC make sure you pair your wires so that the motors spin in the same direction. You can test this by touching them to the battery lead

The battery connector should be attached to the top tab of the fingertech switch. This is so the screw is electrically isolated when the robot is turned off.

Removing the case from the radio receiver can help with fitting everything in.
You may want to shorten wires to reduce the bulk of wiring you need to jam in.