The "Help! I can't decide!" Lack enclosure

v2 can be found here! https://www.printables.com/model/544942-the-help-i-cant-decide-lack-enclosure-v2

November 4 note : I have included information about the sizing required for the panels (tl;dr you should measure it yourself after assembly)

I have also included screenshots for you to assess whether your screwdriver or drill bit is long enough to screw in the bottom mounts.

Added a note on the top back corner part to indicate that it can be used as a drill guide for the bottom table top :)

Added assembly instructions

October 22 note : I updated the design to improve the hinges and the grommet mount. 

I restarted from scratch, keeping the original screw holes in the same location. Most parts have been redone and will need to be reprinted, except for the rigid mounts and perhaps the 2 top corners in the back.

I turned the hinges into lift-off hinges. It is now possible to remove the doors by lifting them up after the table top is removed. I do not know if the lock and key system for the hinges is required, but it is there in case the hinges require reinforcement (which they might, given the direction in which the knuckles are printed). I could have reinforced them with long m3 screws but I liked the idea of this enclosure using very little hardware. I may still make a version that uses screws. However, this might mean that the side panels cannot sit as close to the top and the bottom of the enclosure to allow space for a nut, unless I make the hinges free-floating (i.e. not supported by the table top), which might then introduce some bending. I guess I could make both. Perhaps I could separate the knuckle from the mount, so it could be printed independently in case it breaks and so it can be printed sideways… hmmm… Tell me what you think!

I have completely redone the mount that the cables go through. My hope is that this solution will be effective to mostly seal the hole that the cables go through. You might want to add a rag or something into the mount to seal things better.

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Features : 

• 624mm inner volume height 
• 180° door opening
• Easy printer maintenance : The top, the doors, the legs and the panes are all removable 
• Maximum self-contained inner volume with the panes sitting at the very edge of the table
• Good seal
• Uses very little hardware

Required hardware :

• 16 round head (not countersunk) screws with a diameter of 3.55mm or less.
• 1/8" thick or thinner panels
• 2 20x10x5 magnets
• A 6" long drill bit or screwdriver. PLEASE do make sure that you have the tool necessary to screw the bottom mounts before you print this. I have included screenshots that show the clearance and the heights involved to help you assess whether your tools will work.
• For the panel sizes, see the assembly instructions.

Sorry for the imperial hardware. To use thinner panels, use paper, tape, felt, fabric, anything inside the triangles to add padding to hold the panels in place.

Print instructions :

Please read the file names carefully as they indicate how many times each part needs to be printed. Several parts will need to be mirrored in your slicer.

The big parts are meant to be printed with a 0.8mm nozzle at 0.4 layer height. You can of course print them with a smaller nozzle at a thinner layer height, but it will take more time.

The smaller parts should be printed with a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2 layer height.

The design uses the following tolerances : 

• 0.1mm for tight fitting parts (like the locks, keys, and knuckles inside the locks and grommet inserts)
• 0.2mm for loose fitting parts (I don't think I used this one)
• 0.3mm for free fitting parts (like hinges)

If you would like to have screw holes for the legs on your mounts, use the 3mf files and delete the hole plugs in your slicer (they don't show on the file preview here). Same thing if you want to remove the built-in supports and brims. The 3mf files do NOT contain slicer data. They are model files that were exported from Fusion 360.

Assembly instructions : 

1) Use the back top corner part as a guide to drill the holes into the bottom table top. Drilling holes is not necessary, but it will make it easier to screw the screws in in a straight manner and it will make it easier to screw them by hand. If you choose not to drill holes, you can use the corners to mark the hole locations. If you do decide to drill holes, they should be rather small in diameter. Remember that this is Ikea so it's basically cardboard. If your holes are too big, your screw threads won't have much material left to catch on. You really just want those holes to serve as a guide for your screws to follow, like a path of least resistance.

2) Screw the bottom mounts into the bottom table top.

3) Insert all the cabling through the grommet.

4) Insert the 2 grommet inserts into the mount, as far down as you can.

5) Insert the 4 legs into the mounts.

6) Similar to the first step, you can use the mounts to drill holes into the legs if you so desire.

7) Screw the 4 top mounts and the corners into the legs.

8) Insert the hinges into the mounts.

9) Place the top table on top.

10.1) Measure the distance between each leg on each side. Measure at the top and measure at the bottom. If the measurements differ from top to bottom, pick the smallest measurement to make sure your panels will fit. This will be the width of your panels.

10.2) Measure the distance between the top and the bottom of the table tops. This will be the height of your panels.

10.3) For the doors, it is slightly trickier. The design calls for the following clearances : 

• 0.4mm between the doors and the legs
• 2.6mm between the top and bottom of the doors and the table tops
• 2mm of clearance between the doors

In the CAD design, the side panels are 624mm x 448mm and the doors are 618.8mm x 223mm. However, CAD is not real life and real life is imperfect. You should use your own measurements and calculations to figure out the size of the door panels.

Use your best judgement in determining the final dimensions of your panels.

11) Remove the top table top and the hinges.

12) Insert the panels into the sides.

13) Insert the hinges onto the door panels.

14) Insert the handles onto the doors so that they will sit at the very edge of the doors, but not quite meet. You can install them at the top or at the bottom of the doors, it is up to you.

15) Insert the doors into the hinge knuckles

16) Place the top table top on top. Top top top!

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I wanted an enclosure that I could easily dismantle to service the printer. I couldn't choose between an enclosure with the top or the whole body removable, so I created one that does both!

I also wanted an enclosure that would be big enough to fit a spool (or drawers!) inside and would be able to seal well. 

Benefits of how this enclosure is designed :

The side panels sit at the very edge of the table, giving your printer more space.

The side panels sit flush with the legs. Should you want to make the enclosure sturdier and seal better, you can seal the panels with seal 'n peel.

If you cut your side panels a little narrower than indicated here, you can create inserts for storage or tool mounts that wrap around the legs and do something similar to this https://www.printables.com/model/291013-ikea-table-enclosure.

The only hardware required is 16 5/8" or smaller wood screws for the mounts (+16 more if you want to screw in the legs), 1/8" thick or thinner panels and 2 20x10x5 magnets for the handles.

I'm sorry if I am not yet able to provide a full make picture. I only became aware of this contest 3 days before the end. I thought this was a great opportunity to finally make my own enclosure, which is something I have been putting off for 3 years. Assembly instructions and pictures will be added in the following days after I've assembled it.