TM1638 LED&Key Case for D1 Mini and ElectroCookie Mini PCB

See it in action https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKWGT0Ywonw

My ESPHome Code https://gist.github.com/kdorff/046ddc1ad3c481aeb2b18e511e84b289

I've been playing with the TM1638 and ESPHome and wanted a case for my project. blwn's TM1638 case was very nearly perfect for my needs, but I desired a few changes. Fortunately, blwn's Thing provided a Fusion 360 export.

WARNING TM1638 boards are not all the same. At the time of this posting, this case fits the TM1638 listingmentioned above but didn't fit another listing I ordered.

Notable changes

I needed to bring in power using a barrel jack (or USB). I provide several "Base" STL files, depending on where you want power ingress. I've only tested the "Bottom" version, but the others should work, I hope. Let me know if they don't.

I wanted to use countersunk m3 screws to affix the lid to the case, instead of glue or tape. I've remodeled the Lid and Base to attach using four m3 screws (12mm is about perfect).

The original model used m3 heat inserts, but my m3 heat inserts didn't fit. I've moved the heat-inserts to the Base. It is re-designed to use these m3 heat inserts.

I wanted stand-offs to be able to use an ElectroCookie Mini PCB Prototype Board. The screws for attaching the PCB to the standoffs are two m2.5 screws (5mm is about perfect).

I've included a Fusion 360 Export for anyone who want to to remix it using Fusion 360. It uses an embedded model (the PCB standoffs), but I imagine the export accounts for that.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Prusa

Printer: 

i3 MK3

Rafts:

No

Supports: 

Yes

Resolution:

0.3mm

Infill: 

15%

Filament: Hatchbox PLA White

Notes:

0.3mm printed pretty well, but printing at 0.2mm would probably be a bit better.

Print in the provided orientations, selecting a Base that brings in power from the desired side.

Supports "from the build plate" will help with the "Lid" as the screw heads are countersunk, in this model

Post-Printing

Move the pin header to the bottom, pointing away from the buttons. I switched from a Dupont header to using JST-XH connectors everywhere.

Remove support material from the lid, if you printed with supports.

Insert the heat inserts into the base.

Affix the PCB to the Base with two m2.5 screws (~5mm).

Affix the Lid to the Base with four m3 screws (~12mm).

Run USB through the power hole or use a barrel jack.

Wiring TM1638

• GND to GND on the D1 Mini
• VCC to 3.3V on the D1 Mini
• DIO to D7 / GPIO13 on the D1 Mini
• CLK to D6 / GPIO12 on the D1 Mini
• STB to D5 / GPIO14 on the D1 Mini

How I Designed This

I started with blwn's Fusion 360 Export and modified to meet my needs.

Category: Electronics