Front and Rear Tires for Tyco Turbo Hopper Taiyo Jet Hopper

Tyco Turbo Hopper / Taiyo Jet Hopper Tires!
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updated January 11, 2023

Description

PDF

Tyco Turbo Hopper / Taiyo Jet Hopper Tires!

I have printed and tested these and they are functional. There are a few different files with various thicknesses.  The thinner tires are best because they are going to be “softer”.  You can load them in your slicer and experiment with different Layer Heights, Line Widths, and Number of Walls.

  • Rear Tire Size: 66.00-28-33(Fits original Turbo Hopper AAA Battery Version. Does Not fit 9.6V)
  • Front Tire Size: 58.00-41-14(Fits original MK2, MK3, and some 9.6V. Does not fit MK1 "Fat Tire")

Note: The Z tire tread pattern is just for fun.

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Information about Tyco Turbo Hopper / Taiyo Jet Hoppers variations:

[https://rctoymemories.com/2012/05/06/tyco-taiyo-turbo-hopper-1986/]

[https://rctoymemories.com/2014/06/08/taiyo-jet-hopper-1986/]

I'm releasing these files under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs (CC BY-NC-ND) License. This license is the most restrictive, only allowing you to download and share them with others as long as you credit me. You can not change them in any way, or use them commercially.

Print Settings: (Print test prints and get your TPU settings Right before you try these!  The rear tires take around 7 - 8 hours to print!)

 

Use Glue Stick on Bed!

  • Layer Height: 0.2
  • Line Width: 0.4
  • Wall Line Count: 3
  • Top layers: 3
  • Top and Bottom Pattern: Concentric
  • Infill: 30%
  • Infill Pattern: Cubic
  • Speed: 40 (or Slower)
  • Top and bottom Speed:  20 (or Slower)
  • Travel Speed: 200
  • Temperature: 210 (Do a temperature test ..)
  • Flow Rate 105% (Do a small test print to get your flow rate right. Print a small cylnder or smething. Make sure TPU is getting good over lap, no separation of lines)

You can play with Retraction, Combing, and Z Hop to get the best stringing results for your material.  Do a stringing test!  Soft TPU probably going to be a stringy no matter what you do. 

  • Retraction: 1 - 2 (For Direct Drive Extruder)
  • Combing: Off
  • Z Hop When Retracted
  • Z Hop Height: 0.2
  • Cooling Fan 80%

Supports:

  • Use Supports Everywhere
  • Overhang Angle: 59
  • Support Pattern: Grid
  • Support Density: 15%
  • Support Z Distance: 0.4
  • Support X/Y Distance: 0.8
  • Enable Support Roof
  • Build Plate Adhesion: Skirt
  • Enable Coasting:  If you are not using Pressure Advance, Coasting might help TPU ooze. 

Notes:

Printing with TPU is tricky but I have have been able to make it work. The tires are very usable, once you get your setting right.  For most TPU I increase my Flow rate to something like 105 - 110.  Your printer will be different so go through the necessary steps to print test prints, and calibrate your printer.  This is a good place to start: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html  Also if you are using NinjaFlex  they have some guildelines: https://ninjatek.com/support/printing-guidelines/

Support Removal and Tire Installation

Removing Supports

### Removing the supports from the inside of the rear tire can be a challenge because the support is bigger than the inner diameter.

  • Squeeze the tire in all directions to loosen up the interior supports.
  • Use a screwdriver or similar and work it around the inner lip on top and bottom of the tire. Work it back and forth to break the supports loose from the top and bottom layers.
  • Grab the supports with a needle nose plyers that have good teeth. Pull the supports loose little by little working around the tire.
  • Once it feels like the supports are loose, grab it with a big pair that has large teeth.
  • You should be able to pull the supports out of the tire in one piece.
  • The rim of the tire will turn inside out when you do this. If your printer is working correctly this will not damage the tire. TPU is very strong. Just pop tire back into place.

Installing Tires

Installing the tires is also a bit of a challenge. TPU is pretty flexible, but not as "stretchy".

Rear

  • Put the tire at an angle to the wheel.
  • Grab the opposite wheel with one hand, and the new tire with the other
  • You can kind of screw the tire onto the wheel this way.
  • It takes a bit of strength, but you can muscle it on this way.
  • If that is not working for you, then use small screwdriver like a tire spoon to work it onto the wheel. Similar to how you install a bicycle tire. If you have never installed a bicycle tire, then look it up. ;-)

Front

  • I recommend removing the front wheel. It is much easier to install the tire into the rim by pushing the rim onto the tire from the inside because the front wheels have a small lip on the outside. It's very small, but does tend to catch on the tire.
  • The front wheel is held on by a pin this is just pushed into the hub. You can grab it with a plyers and pull it out. Take your time and pull steadily while screwing it back and forth. Don't force it.
  • If you don't want to remove the front wheels the then it's also possible to use a small screwdriver to work the tire onto the rim.
  • These vintage toy cars break easy. Be careful! Don't break an A-Arm or Hub. It's best not to force the front tires on. Use finesse.

Good luck!

 

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The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.

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