Is the asymmetry between top and bottom for the pw bottom plate intentional? I was trying to modify the plate to fit my aio and I noticed it the top and bottom measures 32/33mm to the center respectively
The PickleWhoop (20, 25 & 30) : cinematic whoop frame
Supports DJI O3. The PickleWhoop is a Cinewhoop frame using carbon fiber guards. Available in 2, 2.5 & 3 inch.
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February 5, 2025
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Merci pour ce drone. J'ai imprimé le pw20 en polycarbonate pour l'essayer avant de commander des pieces en carbone. Mais il y a quelque chose que je ne comprends pas je pense. Il n'y a pas assez d'espace pour le fil de la caméra du O3 air unit. Je ne vois pas comment il faut faire. Il manque presque 3mm pour ne pas coincer le fil. Au prix du o3, je n'ose pas trop appliquer plus de force. Un petit conseil serait le bienvenu. Merci
Update: bon j'ai finalement réussi à tout assembler avec le O3 mais c'est très serré. J'ai fais un seul vol avec. Effectivement il vole SUPER BIEN. Mais j'ai peur de tout couper les fil au premier crash alors je me suis installé sur un CAD. Je vais faire quelque chose similaire au QAV pro nano. (edited)
Good day again my friend. Been flying the PW20 around and am loving it, it does eat props a lot though.
I want another one to build O3 on, but CNCDrones (cncmadness) doesn't seem to carry the V2. Do you have an alternatives to them? I'm getting less and less enthused with their inattention to detail.
@suprchunk_350516 Hey mate, just ask them by mail, they'll update the files
for the picklewhoop20 which engines do you recommend please?
@Chassou_73702 just search online for prebuilt whoops and look at their specs. Prebuilt quads from geprc or other manufacturers vigorously test their drones so you can just follow their specs.
@youfu6354 hello, so it's nice of you to answer huh but it's been almost 2 years since I posted my question fortunately I found an answer since...
2 years later it's no longer worth answering ^^
have a good end of the day anyway and thank you :)
Was about time to post this, I guess. Had some struggles to actually get below 250g, but finally, I got it! (25-version) Upper Frame is carbon, the lower parts are 3D printed with PETG.
# T-Motor P1604 3800 Kv
# FETtec AIO 35A
# Walksnail Avatar digital HD VTX kit
# Gemfan D63-5
# TBS Crossfire Nano receiver
# Minimortal T antenna
# Tattu 4s 650mAh LiPo 75C XT30
* Added connectors for LED and Caddx Walnut.
* Added a small LED stripe on the bottom.
* Added an USB extension.
Ok for a first drone build? Should I change something or is it good? (edited)
@TiGi123 Well done, it's trickier with the 1604 as they're a good 10g extra compared with the 1404
@TiGi123 Bonjour, quel VTX avez vous utilisé ? Standard, nano, micro ? Merci.
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Very nice drone. Made some custom TPU parts for better protection or style.
Thanks ledrone.club for the files. You are awesome!!!
@steamcatcher_639067 nice build, I love it mate
Hello sir, the PW25 is truly an innovative design and I plan to make my first quad based on your setup. But there is one thing that really confuses me, please explain the 2 standoffs in the picture, because as far as I know the standoff is designed to screw on both ends of it. Did you use standoff without thread or one way thread please let me know. Thank you very much and have a nice day.
@TrungucNguyen_456257 Hello, it's a 6mm standoff on a long screw. On top of this goes the carbon guard then another 12mm standoff to hold it down.
basically that's the most confusing part of the frame assembly :)
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@Hidde3D Some parts can get hot and PLA isn't really made to stay strong at higher temperatures. Thats the only reason, why I wouldn't use PLA for a copter. I'm currently the opinion, that PETG is good for several parts, where motors and FC are not connected and CF filled filaments for the parts where motors and FC are connected, since its a lot stiffer. There may also be other good working filaments, but I only have experience with PLA, PETG, TPU and PET CF atm.
Hey folks, can we print the frame using the new Prusament Carbon Fiber PETG filament? Thanks for your help! <3
@jdnichollsc_125973 You have nothing to loose if you try it out. Printing isnt expensive. I would still change the design a bit to reduce the chance of vibrations. Even if you go the carbon cnc route, i would still recommend to print it, to be sure all your components will fit.
Edit: I may get the frame part, which includes the fc and the motors, carbon cutted and may print the guards myself. This may work pretty good. (edited)
@jdnichollsc_125973 exactly what @TiGi123 said. Worth a try anyway. worst case just the frame kept in carbon fiber as it's the most important part of the frame that have to stay stiff and strong.
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Hey all, has anyone tried doing a printed frame version of this design? Any insights on frame material?
@Limestone To get a printed version to work properly, you need 1. carbon filament (at least, very stiff filament) of any sort and 2. you need to change the design.
The problem is, that this version just printed will have vibrations, wich your fc/motors may want to compensate. It makes the whole thing unstable. You can add a thick "line" on the arms to solve this vibrations, but it will still break more easy than carbon. There is a good YT video from Brothgar around, where he printed just the arms and explained the problems and solutions.
I learned a lot about this, since I wanted to have a purely printed version, too. Since getting the frame CNC cut isn't that expensive, I dont see any reasons to still print it with all the effort and problems related to it.
I currently have a PLA+ printed version here, since I'm prototyping my build. Im still missing a lot of parts, but maybe I will give it a try before I order the carbon frame. (edited)
@RodrigoSclosa That's quite a fleet my friend 🤩