FLSUN QQS-Pro Sherpa/Orbiter Housing

Please read before printing.

Prints fine, and print is centered. You'll need to use the included effector spacers at both ends of the rods. At the effector end to prevent the fan from hitting the rods and at the top of the rods to keep the effector level. See below for hardware for these.

Although the available space isn't reduced by much,there will be minor collisions with the rods and fans, fans screws when printing on the extreme edges. Using a small head (anything but hex head) will help. The problem seems to be more on the right, and to a lesser degree, left side. Front and back are good. Make sure you tie your wiring close to the mount on the back to prevent problems. (This upgrade has been an uphill battle all the way.)

To be honest,a better mount would probably be FLSUN QQS-Pro One Piece Extruder Mount for Sherpa Mini (or the one it was remixed from), but that involves printing a new effector (the aluminum part), preferably from carbon fiber nylon or resin. Since the hotend, fans and cooling duct are below the effector, your center of gravity would be improved. I would think all my Orbitor adapters would work. Something to think about. I probably won't be putting much more time into this project.

The Rotated Sherpa Adapter is probably not needed now.

This is a port of my FLSUN SR Sherpa/Orbiter Housing (v2) to the FLSUN QQS-Pro. The only change is to the mount. The adapters, braces, instructions, hardware, etc., are identical to those used on that housing. Ignore any parts labeled as "SR" included here, they will work with this mount.

I also remixed TheStankec's QQS pro volcano fans, because I liked the design and it looked easy to adjust the height by printing at a % of the original, yet still having something that screwed on. Thanks go to Stanislav for sharing his step file.

Note: The QQS-Pro effector is smaller than the SR that this was designed for. If installed as-is, the arms will rub on the fans. The fix for this is to print the effector spacers and install them between the effector and the inside washer. You'll need six 3mm x 25 mm screws for the lower end. To keep the effector level, you'll also need to use the same spacers at the top of the rod. You'll need six #4 x 1-1/4 sheet metal screws to attach these. Like I said above, this is experimental.

You'll need a 40mm x 10 mm fan to cool the extruder. The stock 20 mm fan is too thick and will hit the rods.

Also Note: If you have the stock hot end (I don't), you may need to resize the cooling duct in the z-dimension only a mm or two. For longevity, print with pet-g, asa or abs, probably at 100% infill.

This is still a work in progress! Print and install at your own risk. If something doesn't work, I will try to make it work.

Need to fill the gaping hole left where you removed the extruder arm? Download my Extruder cover for FLSUN delta

You may want to also upgrade to Optical Limit Switches.

5015 fans blow a LOT more air, so if you have print quality issues, you may want to decrease fan speed for PLA to 70-85%.

I couldn't find much info regarding the Sherpa filament screw tension, so with the fan removed, I screwed it all the way snug, then backed off 3 turns and have had no problem with this setting, even at 300 mm/s.

I was able to drop my retraction settings to .6 mm @ 45 mm/s.

Probably a good idea to print a couple of the mounts. It's easy to screw it up when adding the brass inserts.

You'll want a piece of PTFE tubing between your extruder and the radiator. Measure the depth of your radiator, and the depth of your extruder, then make the tube a little longer than the total. I used maybe about 1 mm longer. If using either adapter, include that thickness (9 mm) as well.

I used a soldering iron to push the inserts in.

iplusmile Brass Nuts Embedment Nut M3 Thread Brass Knurled Nuts

Hilitchi 60Pcs Brass Knurled Nuts Threaded Heat Embedment Nut

Assorted M3 nuts and screws. Use the 6 mm inserts for everything except for the Sherpa mount which use the 10mm inserts

Before leveling:

You're going to need to adjust a few things in your config to use this. Assuming you're using the stock rom, you'll have to load up your robin_mini_config.txt file in a text editor like notepad or notepad++. Settings you'll want to check:

Z_MAX_LENGTH: stock is probably 360 mm, you'll want to decrease that by about 6 or 8 mm if you have a volcano hot end. Decrease it by anything that moves the sensor mount down, like my LED mount. Increase it by 2 mm if you have optical endstops. I have a volcano hotend, optical endstops and a LED between the fan duct and probe mount and use 360. (+2 for optical, and -2 for the LED mount)

Z_PROBE_HEIGHT: install your probe and measure the distance between your probe tip and the nozzle tip, then subtract 1. If this number is too high, you'll crash into the bed when you tap on "Move Z0". I have a volcano clone and used 17.

>EXT0_STEPS_PER_MM 702 #E0 pulse value per mm (use 690 for Orbiter)

>CURRENT_VREF_E 400 #Default motor current for E in mA - range (0~1000)

>cfg_filament_load_length 100 #The length of the "refill" feed

>cfg_filament_load_speed 400 #"Reloading" feeding speed configuration (mm/min)

>cfg_filament_unload_length 100 #The length of the "refill" return material

Using non-stock rom? Alternative ways to store settings.

To use the Sherpa, you'll need to send these 3 commands via terminal:

M92 E702; change the extruder steps to 702 M906 T0 E400; drop the current for NEMA14 to 400 ma so we don't burn it out M500; save settings to EEPROM

For the Orbiter, use 690 steps. M92 E690; change the extruder steps to 690 M906 T0 E400; drop the current for NEMA14 to 400 ma so we don't burn it out M500; save settings to EEPROM

Depending on what stepper motor you use, the current above may need to be altered.

Note: If your stepper still runs hot after dropping the current as above, then you probably have to set the vref screw on your stepper (like I did). My TMC2208's were working great with a vref of .9v, so I set the stepper for my extruder to .6v and it still was running hot (unlike my SR) so I dropped it to .45v.

If you don't have terminal available, highlight and copy the settings above and paste into a text editor and save it to the usb drive you use for printing, using a ".gcode" file extension, then print the file. That will update your printer and save the settings.

Don't have terminal?

Copy the text below and paste into a text editor. Edit with values you want to use, then save to your usb drive with the name set_extruder.gcode Then print this file to set up defaults for your new extruder.

Save below asset_extruder.gcode and print it.

M92 E702 ; change the extruder steps to 702

M906 T0 E400 ; drop the current for NEMA14 to 400 ma so we don't burn it out

M500 ; save settings to EEPROM

; PID tune (recommended, but optional)

G28 ; home axis

M106 S255 ; set fan to 100%

M303 E0 S220 U1 ; PID tune extruder using 220C

M500 ; save settings to EEPROM

G1 Z15.0 F6000 ; Move the platform down to 15mm from bed

G1 X0 Y0 Z10 F1000 ; move slowly to 10 mm from bed

M303 E-1 S60 U1 ; PID tune bed using 60C

M500 ; save settings to EEPROM

G28 X0 Y0 ; home axis

M106 S0 ; turn fan off

Update 5/29/2022: Added a "short" fan duct, 8mm shorter, so (in theory) should be better for use with stock hotend (those who have not swapped out to a volcano clone hotend).

Update 6/24/2022: Decreased height of the qqs-pro fan duct by 1 mm. This is the one used with a Volcano hotend and my testing showed it was too tall. Also increased the height of the effector spacer by 1 mm. This is the spacer that needs to be added at both ends of the effector arm... at the bottom to keep the arms from hitting the fans and at the top to keep the effector level when at the outer edge of the bed.

Update 7/4/2022: Finally centered the extruder on the bed. Printed center from my testing is centered perfectly front to back and within 1mm left to right.

Update 7/9/2022: Added front cover. Updated Sherpa mount to move the left fan back 4mm. It was hitting the rods during printing the start gcode. This is probably my last update.

Update 7/29/2022: Added more front covers with less grill so less noisy.

Print Settings

Printer:

FLSUN QQ-S Pro

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

.2 mm or .3 mm

Infill:

30%

Filament: eSun PLA+

Purple

Notes:

Print with 4 walls for strength.

I used supports but used Cura's support blocker to block the 4 on the bottom, otherwise you'll have to do a lot of cleanup to remove them.

Print the effector spacers at 100% infill.

Add spacers between inside washer and effector and test. Ideally you want screws that are 6 mm longer (~30 mm) for the effector arms. If needed you could adjust the height of the spacer and print at 7 mm z-height or higher.

Category: 3D Printer Parts