CR-6 Dragon hotend to Bowden mount

Overview:

This model straps the Dragon hotend to a stock Creality CR-6 setup. The original case, daughterboard and both part and hotend cooling fans can be retained. There is the option to ad the 5015 part cooling fan to this setup which is necessary in the Direct drive setups.
https://www.printables.com/model/157511-cr6-5015-part-fan-shroud-dual-fang.

Needed accessories:

Hot melt inserts

4 M3 x 7mm (the model is 6 to 8 mm compatible) hot melt inserts. 

Take care to get real hotmelt inserts (with diagonal knurling's) as in the picture. The ones with straight knurling's are no good and are meant for injection molding not 3D printing.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232858343.html?pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22:%2210000000945302171%22,%22ship_from%22:%22%22%7D&gps-id=pcStoreJustForYou&scm=1007.23125.137358.0&scm_id=1007.23125.137358.0&scm-url=1007.23125.137358.0&pvid=e707db28-7db4-41a2-b451-dc7f8a782c04&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.smartJustForYou_2001733901821.1

A reference where you can buy them. There are plenty of other options. If you can prefer the M3 x D4.6 x L7.0 ones.

bolts

2 M3 x 14 to 16 mm bolts 

Printing:

Print the model in PETG, ABS, ASA or another ridged higher temperature filament. PLA is less suitable as the fan shroud is too close to the heater block.

Slicer settings:

The model is oriented in the intended printing orientation

• 0.4 mm nozzle (0.6 mm nozzle can be used when using the Arachne slicer engine in Cura 5.0 or higher).
• 4 perimeters, top and bottom layers
• 1 extra perimeter alternating with infill
• 25% gyroid infill, connect infill lines
• No supports
• All other settings as per your standard profile. Prefer a higher print temperature to ensure good layer adhesion.

Mounting:

Insert s hotmelt using a standard soldering iron from the bottom of the mount in the 2 positions for the strain gauge mount bolts. These hotmelts need to be at least M3 x 6 to avoid creep. The model is compatible with 7 and 8 mm long hotmelts.

The other 2 hot melts go in the front for the hotend cooling fan. Length of these M3 hotmelts is not critical any length from 3 to 8 mm will work.

Now first mount the hotend to the mount with the 4 longer M2.5 screws. Torque the screws using the short part of an Allen key with moderate force and repeat torqueing until the screws do not move further.

Screw the original Bowden coupler into the model. The screw thread is 10x1 mm so any alternative coupler with this screw thread will work too. If you have another screw thread please leave me a comment adapting the screw thread is easy.
When inserting the Bowden couple take care the couple screws in straight. The plastic thread is easily screwed skewed in the first turn which will ruin the model.

Screw the hotend combination back onto the strain gauge (without the blue retainer clip as it is will not fit trough the bottom of the strain gauge).

Now the hotend fan can be mounted and the whole hotend can be reassembled.

Printing after installation:

The Dragon has significantly higher melt capability than the stock hotend. So as long as print speed is not increased print temperatures can be lowered 5 or even 10 degrees.

In my experience the Dragon hotend tends to string less than stock hence retraction can possibly be reduced. In any case do not use retractions longer than 6 mm to avoid pulling molten plastic into the heat break and thus clogging the heat break.

Also Linear Advance will need somewhat lower values. 
If Linear Advance is not tuned I advise to do so. When choosing a value do err to the low side as too much Linear Advance will introduce artefacts (Linear Advance avoids bulges in corners, overdo it an the bulge becomes a hole). With Linear Advance tuned retractions of 3 to 3.5 mm are generally sufficient, speeding up print times by about 10%.