Bar end shifter

The pod has an inset that will support a standard shift housing ferrule. The shifter is oversized to pull enough cable for rear derailleurs like the Shimano Dynasys mountain RDs, or 11s RDs.

You might have luck swapping in your own shifters taken from stem or downtube units, but the cable stop will certainly not be aligned anymore, causing cable rub on the pod & eventually wearing through the plastic. I intend on designing a second version of the pod so that the cable stop is aligned with a regular shifter, which are maybe about 20-25 mm in diameter (?). I think the shifter currently in there is 30 mm in diameter. It'll still work with regular RDs, just that it'll pull more cable per degree of rotation, making it possibly too sensitive for most people's taste.

12 Dec 2016: work in progress. Never tested this yet. I'm aware that the ferrule extruded cut is a little too deep right now. I will fix this eventually.

(Possible) upcoming improvements:

• resize for standard friction shifters
• put a stop on the pod for use with standard friction shifters, at low setting
• reduce extruded cut for ferrule inset
• introduce dummy downtube boss + Retroshift/Genevalle-style insets to provide a better fit with standard friction shifters
• inset a washer for the shifter-pod interface on both the shifter & pod so that the channel & cable stop are still aligned

How I Designed This

Based on Suntour & Microshift bar end shifters. They should fit in the ends of most handlebars.

Assembly & Materials

Hardware needed: 4 mm bolt & locknut, appropriate o-ring for the plug assembly. Add washers where appropriate. Probably at least two to minimize friction between the shifter-pod interface. 6 mm bolt & nut as well. The 6 mm bolt will control the plug assembly, & its nut will slot in the expander piece inside the handlebar.

The 6 mm nut I'm using is 3.79 mm in diameter, so the insert width in the expander unit is 115% larger.

The 6 mm bolt is inset in the pod fairly deep. You might need to file the head to prevent it from contacting the shifter, but I doubt it.

Printing: the expander piece has a six-sided slot (cut out on 3 sides) for a 6 mm nut. You should print the expander so that the slot faces upward to eliminate supports inside. It is nearly impossible to remove supports from this piece without breaking it otherwise.

A plug assembly is provided to streamline the printing. Use this & orient it vertically to reduce supports. If you print each plug on its side, separately, the exterior round won't be as nice. You'll have to file it down.

Updates

17 Dec 2016: Replaced the expander SLDPRT & STL. The old one's slot for the nut was too small.

18 Dec 2016: Added pictures of the first test assembly. The resize I did the day before worked.The slot is now a little too wide for my taste, but the nut is secure & doesn't slip when tightened. I don't have any o-rings, but I realized that a piece of old inner tube works well. I might cut it later to fit into the inset, or resize the inset to be much wider to accommodate a certain width of inner tube. Right now, it'll probably catch inside the handlebar, which would cause it to shift axially & then the expansion will be asymmetric.