DSLR Rig - NEW VERSION (July 2022)

This is a completely new version of my original design (here: https://www.printables.com/model/145632-dslr-rig) without the cage and with fewer parts. Redesigned in SOLIDWORKS for higher precision.

UPDATE (19/04/2023):
Uploaded .STEP files (exported from SOLIDWORKS) as A214 profile (see Model Files, below).

You will also need:

15 mm aluminum or carbon rods (2 pairs of equal length, say 300 and 250mm – personal choice of course)
Standard 1/4" camera/tripod UNC screw with 4.5mm shank (so it won't fall out of the baseplate when not attached to the camera)
Standard 3/8" camera/tripod UNC screw per handle
Camera rig handle (Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284681017598?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D239900%26meid%3Dbc038362ec1b48639ebc6f4c90b2c21a%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D11%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D165405714368%26itm%3D284681017598%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPromotedCompV3WithHighAdFeeWithKnnRecallV1DiversityV1MoreDiversity%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A284681017598bc038362ec1b48639ebc6f4c90b2c21a%7Cenc%3AAQAHAAABIFvfCjoecFl1iajBgcBhs8WbHylW74hb6THTfoyQ88Fg2VUNCdB6TkcG38pzoOOtos7KZcf0DeYdZCj2xXsdrnpW3QNeWdihTNn22LLLGoaUJaBlrKVwUGaeTIe6wZfo8CGafunlkYXko0x0Wo6q79sos0aNIxbSUqMI5yIuUDZ2hmPnEgKEdoGZCzx11la%252FBqQBR3Pfx2KWM0VRh6kji61EOONpTiweqXtUA5o4lBK626IUnXqpSr8P4kjIFkHVAf8aWyn0zBG71kU9Hpl93fA29xQxc4ZPtZ2iS%252FvwyfXaKbw%252B3ImJKIJ6vCWqZCrAgagmBBfhWShLbY3PaAMnXFehptQ3u67tuA1qYsRQw2TYmPTiQKlkVqY8i%252B%252Fgy5KC2w%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675)
17 x M8 x 20mm hex headed screws (DIN 912, cap head)
4 x M8 x 30mm hex headed screws (DIN 912, cap head) for the base plate(s)
21 x M8 washers
21 x M8 nut
Thin rubber (from a bicycle inner tube) for the base plate(s)
Non-slip rubber or foam sheet about 70 x 220mm for the shoulder pad

Print with PETG (Prusament PETG Black recommended) directly from the gcode files or from the STLs:

0.15mm layer height
0.4mm nozzle
100% infill (yeah, it takes a while to print everything and quite a lot of plastic but it’s very strong)
No supports
4mm brim for the shoulder pad (just in case it decides to separate from the print bed)

POST PRINTING and ASSEMBLY:
Drill out all 4mm (M4) holes to allow the screws to pass freely through them with a 4mm HSS drill bit.

To fit the knobs onto the M4 cap head screws press the knobs onto the heads using a vice. Make sure they go on square.  The knobs will be pretty much permanently fixed to the screws.

In all cases, the washers fit between the screw heads and the plastic (not on the nut end). The nuts are a push fit into the hex holes in the printed parts.  If they’re difficult to press in then screw the nut a few turns onto a spare M8 screw to press them in.  Don’t use the Prusa method of drawing the nut through from the other side of the Rod Spacers as this may damage the 4mm hole and weaken the plastic because it will force the brackets on either side of the gap together.  Excessive force isn’t necessary anyway, if the nuts are lined up properly.

 

For a full hand held rig you'll need to print:

1 x Offset Rod Spacer
4 x Rod Spacer
1 x Shoulder Pad
1 x Slotted Baseplate (70mm or 110mm)
1 x Handle Grip (per handle used)
9 x M8 Knobs (or 1 x Knob x9)

You can also fit a standard follow-focus/matt box/etc.  Mics and a monitor can be fitted onto a hot shoe extension mounted on the camera's hot shoe (as per the photos).

To mount the rig directly to a tripod (Manfroto 501 QR style plate) you'll also need:

4 x M8 x 30mm hex headed screws (DIN 912, cap head) for the base plate
4 x M8 washer
4 x M8 nut

Print (in addition to the hand held parts):

2 x QR Rod Spacer
1 x QR Base

 

The QR Rod Spacers fit on the rods outside the Rod Spacers.

Fully insert 2 nuts each of the QR Rod Spacers.
Fit the 30mm screws with washers into the 4 holes in the QR Base underside (the surface with the extruded detail that snaps into the 501 tripod baseplate) and through the holes in the QR Rod Spacers (into the nuts).

Slide both units onto the rods with the QR Rod Spacers outside the Rod Spacers of the Slotted Baseplate.  If this sound confusing, reference the photographs.

A long screwdriver with a broad head can be used to attach the camera to the Slotted Baseplate (between the rods, through the slot).

In the photos I’ve used a commercial shoulder pad (‘cause I had one) but the files for the 3D printed pad work fine.  See also my sunshade for the FeelWorld 5 ½" Field Monitor at:

https://www.printables.com/model/240027-feelworld-fw568-5-12-inch-field-monitor-shade

As you can see from the last photo, the whole rig (without follow-focus and camera) compresses down to a little under 40 x 20 x 12cm without taking anything off the rods.

If you use PLA or another filament material (other than PETG) you may have to adjust for shrinkage.  PLA will also be more fragile and probably weaker.  ABS may be a better way to go but do a test print to calculate shrinkage allowance.  PETG seems plenty strong enough for my purposes.

NOTE:  I can take no responsibility for damage or injury resulting from the use of any of this stuff.  Remember that it’s all the plastic parts are all plastic and it should be used with appropriate care.  Don’t, for example, swing the rig round by the shoulder pad.  Support the rig with both hands and keep it all balanced whether using it hand held or on a tripod.  It’s very strong thanks to the 100% infill but it’s not made of metal and not of industrial strength.  Consider yourself warned!

Regards, Paul