10DLR Display Linear Rail

This is a linear rail that can be used for many things.  The objective was thin and reasonably strong.   Once I had it functional I did not mess with it much.  

It prints best back down with no supports.  If you want to print it upright I recommend using the one with increased tolerances since you loose some features that are optimized for layering.  The ends are keyed to prevent drifting of the ends when assembled.

Draw a straight line for your centerline.  If mounting the track directly use the drill template to ensure your holes are centered.   The pre-hole pieces will give you a hole every 45mm even between connections.   You can assemble pieces to whatever lengths you want.  Note that the rumble track should be on the bottom to use the fixtures I provide.

Material and print:  It is optimized for for .2mm layer with 4mm nozzle.  PLA has been find I have not tested with others yet.  Supports:  On the one hand not required, however so little support is generated for the rail I let it do it to ensure good angles on the ends.   For the 3UDC to 10DLR adapter, when printing upright you may want to add support from plate for the 10mm wide to prevent the 10DLR angle from falling over before its print joins the 3UDC connection about 15 layers up.

The key being well formed is a factor, but so is the clearance around the opening and off the face of the slot.  All attributes to check.

Fittings:  A limitation of linear rails can be the requirement that you slide you attachments from the end all the way down the rail to the location where you want it.  This means adding items with fixed mounts or changing orders can take time.   

Combine the rail with a 3UDC or a 5UDC socket and you can now move things around and change your mixture in minutes.  You also have the option of using floating nuts or bolts.  

You can mount rail flush to a surface or mount it perpendicular to a surface using provided brackets, or design our own. 

Custom holes:  While pre-drilled pieces use lengths to ensure consistent hole spacing (45mm on center) the library includes non-holed rails geared more towards common even numbers and bed sizes

FRICTION /Rumble track:  The rails have an embedded rumble track on one interior side giving the option of fittings with friction or fittings that slide freely by not printing or filing off a few teeth from the track wedges.    Note that the rumble track is only imprinted on one side of the track.  In all the fittings I provide, it assumes the rumble track is on the bottom.  I chose bottom so the downward pressure of a hanging item would keep it engaged.  

The transition of the rumble strip between sections may not have perfect alignment.  It should not matter as it is for friction.  Since the parts are printed for length consistencies there is really no formula to make them even in this scenario.

Removing rumble track Teeth from fittings:  If you want an item to glide freely and it printed with rumble track teeth, simply file them off with a nail file.

Table Stand

I had originally printed the table stand with the track rendered with it.  To allow for the possibility of extending the track beyond the stand edges, I switched to bolt on.  I had also made the 2nd generation stand 2 level, but it was not as stable as the DT155 Wall stand so you will not find that offered here.  

Note: V1 of the table stand with cantilever weight on it for 3 months is showing a need for more ribbing behind the rail mount

Installing the standoffs

The current standoffs are for moderate weight.  If using the ones with the bracket in front (under the track)…

1. Assemble your track length first
2. Draw a straight line down the center line of the screw line (if you don't have an edge as reference).
3. Place your assembled track in place.
4. Pencil mark the notches which indicate the center lines.
5. Remove the assembly and drill your pilot holes.  Use the drill template for ease, just line up with your marks.
6. Disassemble your track from the standoffs.
7. Install your end standoff, then the next standoff.   Tighten the screw on the base down that will go under the track.
8. Install the first track (rumble strip down if that is where you want it).
9. If that standoff looks good, go to the next and repeat the operation.

If you are installing the REAR standoffs, you should be able to hold it in place and screw it down while assembled.

I apply tolerance changes to the TRACK and not the keys.  This is to bring some consistency in accessories.  There is a 30mm length of test track you can print for sizing.  If you print the track vertically you will likely want the .16(x2) tolerance track.  The slicer tends to curve some of the features that are more defined with layers.  

Hardware

5mm, #8 or #10.  For those items that hold NUTs I rendered each size.  5mm I think is OK, but no telling if the nuts I have are standard size.

Related Libraries

• 156DT Display Tree Library (get your tower parts here)
• 3UDC Accessory Library (surface mounts, extensions here, containers, hangers)
• Printables COLLECTION Library of KitCard Platforms (pickup platforms)
• Thingiverse COLLECTION Library of KitCard Platforms (pickup platforms)
• 3UDC and 155DT Developers Library
• Kit Card Tree Parts and the 3UDC pivot platform (Kitcard pivot mounts)