Samus from Metroid Articulated Figure

The last Metroid is in captivity, the Galaxy is at peace…

This is our second fully 3D-printable articulated figure: Samus Aran, from the Metroid franchise of video games by Nintendo. The designer is Dany Sánchez, who is also behind MiniWorld3D, and the Iron Man & Mandalorian figures.

Further below are the full instructions, so for now consider that:

• OpenFigure3D is an account where several designers and 3D artists share 3D printable articulated figures & sculptures. These could be free fanarts or originals.
   
• Other extra items like additional heads, hands & beam effects are available here .
   
• THIS MODEL IS FREE and only on Printables & MyMiniFactory, DO NOT BE FOOLED AND PAY FOR IT ELSEWHERE.
   
• Please don't publish these files elsewhere. OpenFigure3D is meant to be OPEN, contact us to be part of it, let's keep it all here.
   
• This is no Bandai, Hot Toys, S.H. Figuarts , Figma, Black Series figure lol. It's 3D printed so it will not be perfect - but hey, it's free and fun!

--FULL INSTRUCTIONS-------

TAKE YOUR TIME. Save this, print this, come to it later. Also, SEE ATTACHED ASSEMBLY MANUAL PDF.

1. Who's this model?

This is Samus, the space heroine. We included a head with no helmet too, and various hand poses. This particular model is based on her appearance in "Other M" and recent Super Smash Bros. series. It is a more simple and elegant armor, which I chose for her first figure. In the future we can do other bulkier versions like the Prime and other variants like Dark Samus.

2. What's inside?

You'll see folders with the body parts, named as clearly as possible. Both limbs are provided and embossed "L" or "R" for your convenience. Most parts have been split so they can be printed without supports, with the flat side on the print bed.

Additionally, there is a folder with  MMU/AMS version, and a folder with all body parts as whole (not split), in case you want to try using supports instead of gluing halves.

Extra items are available here , they are a separate entry in order to not crowd this one that already has lots of files.

3. What's NEW or Improved since our first figure, Iron Man MK3?

• The biggest improvements are in movement range and ease of printing / assembly.
• Body parts are offered split in halves for easier and cleaner printing, without supports. Glue is necessary to put halves together. The splitting is also strategic, as it makes the joints strong along the layer lines, instead of weak against them.
• Both limbs are provided, so no more mirroring and losing track.
• Parts that need it are embossed with L or R
• ALL parts are rotated to appear flat on the bed in your slicer, so no more manual rotating with odd angles.
• The legs have significant more movement at the hips.

4. Printing Recommendations

4.1 Scale. It's a little larger than a regular action figure so that joints are decently sized. 1:1 should be fine, but scaling up might be better. It would be much easier to work with, and stronger. We don't recommend going smaller unless it's resin.

4.2 Few parts need supports. The rest are split and print flat on the bed. The only ones that need support are listed now:
- Head (the supports version works better than the halves, but feel free to use whichever)
- Shoulders (even though they are split, they still need supports).
- Cannon (the top needs supports where the green glow would go).
- Foot heel (the heel ball joint is strongest if rotated almost 90 degrees and printed standing up, with the back of the heel touching the bed. The foot tip can be printed as normal, sole on the bed).
- Hand (position the palm as flat as possible on the print bed).

4.3 Orientation on the print bed matters a lot, especially for strength of articulation parts, like ball joints. In general, they tend to break along the layer lines, so try to print perpendicular to them: for example, print sockets and ball joints horizontally so the layers run along it. Because most parts are split this is already taken care of. The aesthetics sacrifice of having the layers and partition lines being very noticeable is well worth the strength of the joints.

4.4 General recommendations

• It is suggested to print without brims, except for really small parts. Using brims fuses everything together in the first layer and makes removal much more difficult.
• 50mm/s speed, 20 for outer perimeter.
• Use at least 2 perimeters, and about 15 to 20% infill.
• If you can print with and have TPU, it is recommended for the articulation sockets.

Feel free to try different supports, orientation, and settings in general if you find they work better for you.

5. Post-print

5.1 Cleanup. Removing supports, brims, and any debris or imperfections that may cause interference between parts is crucial.

5.2 Tolerances. We found the best is to have 0 tolerance between touching parts. This is because it's easier to adjust manually with a knife or sanding until fit is perfect. Sometimes it fits nicely right off the printer. There is wild variation between printers, qualities, filaments, etc. The problem to avoid is making a joint too loose, which makes the figure like a rag doll. If this happens to you, you can: a) reprint the part, b) use a tiny piece of paper, plastic bag, or clay/tack between the parts to fill the gap and make it tight, c) use nail polish (acetone)

5.3 Fractures. If a joint breaks, thankfully you just need to reprint that part and not the whole thing. None of the ball joints broke when printed in the halves orientation, as layer lines run along it. They always snap if the layer lines run horizontally.

5.4 Assembly. It's a pretty straight-forward puzzle, you can see the photos or attached PDF if you have doubts. Be kind but firm. Insert small parts to larger ones first, before doing larger ones to each other.

5.5 Paint. Feel free to paint the figure, or print it in colors. It could benefit from applying a dark wash to darken the simulated gaps and part crevasses. You can print the "green" parts like the helmet visor in glow-in-the-dark filament.

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That's it! Thank you so much for printing our figures! We hope to see your photos here or on Instagram at @openfigure3d 

Please remember to keep this models to yourself, support us by not re-publishing or selling them. We will continue to create more free fanarts and originals.

This model was first published on MyMiniFactory in June 2020, some materials may refer to this, but now it will be here on Printables too.

Credits:

TPU sockets by Robert Vorthman - tested and proven, recommended if you have TPU.

Main photos by George Spake . Other photos by Dany Sánchez, printed in HALO3D Filaments Royal Blood Red, New Gold Dream, and Throwing Copper; Fillamentum Vertigo Grey; & Filoalfa Neon Green Silk.

Other photos by @theprintsregent  , Jován González @DBIANX, Nick @Twistedmetalprototyping , @breakingdawn_dragon (who also did an open hand in rest version, and fixed the ponytail assembly). No helmet head sculpt by @taurus_o4 .

Thanks to all beta testers and friends who printed this!

[ ! ] This figure is for personal use ONLY - do not distribute digital files or sell physical reproductions.

METROID, Samus, and all of its affiliated properties remain the intellectual property their owners & Nintendo. Characters, Names And Related Indicia Are Property of their respective owners. This model is a non-profit, fan work inspired and based on the appearances on screen. You are forbidden from selling this 3D digital file or physical print. No infringement is intended.