Trackhat Clip Plus Mount for RIG Heasdset

Got fed up with the ziptie holding the trackhat clip to my RIG 500 headset so I got off my butt and put some effort in…
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updated June 13, 2022

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Got fed up with the ziptie holding the trackhat clip to my RIG 500 headset so I got off my butt and put some effort in and design my first thingy... finally.

Actually works waaaay better than I thought it would. Snug fit for the trackhat clip and the mount is nice and secure on the headset... and without any glue. Total fluke.

Base comes in 2 flavours. A 10 degree slope for fat heads and a 15 degree slope for pin heads ;). Ya want the trackhat vertical so choose which ever one suits your head best.

Now, word of caution. Your going to need a tuned printer and a tidy slicer profile to create this whatsit. Calibrated esteps, secure bowden tube and tuned z off set because this thingy is made of PETG and has the tightest of err, tolerances.

You may be convinced it doesn't fit together but I assure you it does indeedy. The fit of the parts may loosen with use and time and I suggest a touch of CA to hold the bits together but fresh off the bed they wont need it.

You may be able to make it out of PLA+ but I wouldn't bother and I haven't. You could maybe fit it together out of PLA with much filing to loosen the fit and then use CA glue but I doubt the clip that attaches the beastie to the headset would be durable enough in PLA.

Should work with any of the RIG headsets that use the same system to mount the speakers to the head band but this is un-tested accept on my RIG 500's.

EDIT: I have tested on my sons RIG 700 Headset and the tabs were to long so I have updated the STL files with tabs to fit the 500's and 700's

Now to the printing.

With PETG I use a 10 line brim on a glass plate smeared with glue stick that I evenly distributed with alcohol. Sorts out the bed adhesion gremlins real good.

Parts are in the correct orientation for printing, may want to make sure their flat on the bed in your slicer. Good practice.

0.2mm layer height, 3 layers top and bottom, 2 walls.

The Base

I used multi process in S3D to get a 20% honeycomb infill up until 3 layers before the bottom of the first clip trough starts then switched to 25% rectalinear to get clean bridging and enable the bottom of the troughs and top layers to go down nice and perdy.

BUT, for simplicity I suggest just going with 25% rectalinear infil from the ground up.

The Shell

Pretty basic print. 25% rectalinear infill to get schmick top layers.

The Tabs

100% infill. Just print 'em.

Post Processing

Now the fun starts. Base should be good to go off the bed. Just check the troughs to make sure no blobs have hidden in them. They'll prevent the tabs seating to proper depth. Maybe run a needle file LIGHTLY around the rims off the troughs to make your life easier in the next steps.

The shell will need some touches with a file to square up the edges of the tabs. Give all the tabs a touch up and run your eyeball over their lines to judge if there even and square with no bulges on the ends. You want a snug fit so just take the roundness of them. A very slight, imperceptible even, bevel to the top of the tabs edges will help a lot. Go slow. Touch it with the file then check for fitment

When you find the tabs catch in the slots on the base while testing for fit your probably there. Lay the base on a sturdy flat surface, line up one side of the shells tabs with the slots on the base and lean on it. When its ready it will snap in with a very tight fit. Flip the base around and repeat, being careful to line up the tabs with the troughs. Its at an angle now so go steady. They will go in. Lay the shell flat and apply weight to fully seat.

Same process for the barbed tabs. Tidy up the square edges and remove any surface bumps. Line up the tab with the trough. Make sure the barb is on the outside face. Be careful the upper edge is SHARP. Slot one side in slightly and work the other side in. Its all about getting the angle right here. Now press it all the way till it seats. Again its sharp so be careful. Second tab is a bit harder as the first one get in the way a bit but its the same process just a bit more frustrating.

That's it your done!

The barbed tabs can be pulled out if you need to but the shells tabs WILL break off if your not extremely careful when attempting to remove it.

Hope this thingy is useful to someone.

Print Settings

Printer:

Voxelab Aquila N32

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2

Infill:

25% Rectalinear

Filament: eSun PETG

That lovely see through blue one! How I Designed This ===================

Category: Computer

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Model origin

The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.

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