This is a remix of the Prusa Mini Z-Top | Electronics Box Lid by freewheeler, the Raspberry Pi Zero mount lid by Deeps, and the Pi Zero hex lid by crokobacon with the following changes:
If you would like to power your Raspberry Pi Zero from The Prusa Mini's power supply using a buck converter as shown in the pictures, check out the great instructions for the LED light bar to learn how to get 24V directly from the power inlet of the Prusa Mini. Then use a buck converter such as the LM2596 to step the voltage down to 5V for the Raspberry Pi. I used this thing to attach the buck converter and used VHB tape to stick it to the electronics box.
Note: If you are unfamiliar with electronics wiring, do not attempt this and use an external USB power supply for the Raspberry Pi instead. You could damage your components or get zapped.
| Qty | Description | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | M3x12mm Socket Heat Cap Screw | From existing electronics box |
| 4 | M2.5x6mm Button or Socket Head Cap Screw | Only if using Raspberry Pi |
| 1 | M2x6mm Button or Socket Head Cap Screw | Only if using Raspberry Pi |
These aren't load-bearing parts so you can choose pretty much what you want. I chose PETG with 3 perimeters and 20% infill, 3 bottom and 5 top layers. I wouldn't recommend PLA because the electronics might produce some heat.
The parts can be printed in the original orientation. The Base requires support material from the build plate only. There's an alternative version that doesn't require support (see comparison further down). All the other parts do not require support material.
There are different variations of each part. Choose depending on your visual preferences and cooling method for the Raspberry Pi Zero.
There is a version of the Base that is flush with the edges of the electronics case but requires support material from the build plate around the edges. If you don't like supports you can choose the “No Supports” version. However, it has a gap between the Base and the electronics case. See below for comparison.

There two different styles of ventilation openings and both come with a variation to mount a Raspberry Pi Zero. I assume Lid A provides better air circulation but the openings are big enough that a very small screw might fall through if your drop one. M3 and larger screws can't fall through the opening.


If you use a Raspberry Pi you can choose the right lid for your preferred cooling method. The Waveshare Dedicated Aluminum Heatsink for Raspberry Pi Zero Series is supported too.
The version without heat sink and the Waveshare lid can also be used with the old Raspberry Pi Zero. The other lids only support the Raspberry Pi Zero 2.



The author remixed this model.