CR-10 V2 Petsfang Direct Drive mod

This remix is designed for the Creality CR-10 V2.

7/30/2020:

Mount V3 - I lowered the hotend 2 mm to to allow for the bed springs to be a bit more compressed. This should keep your bed level adjustments in tact better and keep the level adjusting knobs from falling off as easy due to poor spring compression and machine vibration from previous version.

Adapter plate V3 - I had to move the posts that embed into the hotend mount by 2 mm to stay in line with the recesses on the hotend mount.

6/28/2020:

Mount V 2.1 has a notch on the right-hand side to accommodate a cooling duct's full range of motion. Also improved the angles on the motor mount to true 45 degrees for easier printing.

Because the original cable for the extruder motor is so short, you will need to replace it with a longer one. it needs to be long enough to reach the far end of the X axis, so at least 500 mm long. Make sure the wiring is correct before hooking the new cable up, some require the middle two wires to be switched.

I turned the motor 90 degrees to utilize the top of the metal carriage, in the hopes that it will help support the weight of the motor. This design choice is also inspired by sashalex007's Speed Drive mod, which centers the motor over the gantry to balance the weight. Since the metal carriage is bent instead of machined, I left a tiny gap between the motor and the carriage to allow for variance in the bend angle from printer to printer. I may upload a few different shim sizes if I can get some feedback on how much of a gap there is between the motor and the top of the carriage, but for now if you want/need to shim the gap, you can either print a tiny square/rectangular shim in whatever thickness you need, or cut a few pieces of paper to size and put them under the motor before you tighten it to the mount.

Firmware/slicer updates:

Because the motor is now crossing over the X-axis gantry,this mod WILL shrink your Z-axis by approximately 42 mm (the thickness of the motor) to avoid crashing into the angular support brace mounting brackets. Since most screw assortments come with even number screw lengths, I increased the adapter plate thickness by 1 mm for version 2, this keeps the hotend mounting screws from bottoming out on the metal carriage behind the adapter plate. This moves the center point of the nozzle -1 mm on the Y axis (X is still at stock nozzle position). Because of these two factors you'll need to update your firmware and/or slicer settings accordingly to keep things from crashing.

Both files are uploaded in their printed orientation.

Support settings:

For the hotend mount, I used Cura's tree supports, touching only the build plate. Support interface on, grid pattern, 25% density, 2 mm thick. Z gap between support interface and model is 0.2 mm

For the adapter plate I used standard supports with the same support options

Other parts:

For convenience, I included the 40 mm fan cap, part cooling duct and BLTouch mount from the original Petsfang Titan direct drive mod. Original 'thing' files are here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2907538

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

CR-10

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.2 mm

Infill:

80%

Filament: Overture PETG

Notes:

Even though the printed parts are probably not being subjected to high temperatures, PLA is know for a phenomena called plastic creep, meaning that it will permanently deform if kept under load for prolonged period of time. Since a standard 43x43x39 NEMA 17 extruder motor is heavy, it's best to print this in PETG or ABS since their rate of creep is much less than PLA. This will minimize deformation that may happen slowly over time that you may not notice.

As with any mission-critical 3D printed component, once you have successfully printed and installed any upgrade and verified that it does what you want, PRINT A BACKUP, BEFORE YOU NEED IT! :)

After you've printed the parts...

So you've printed the parts, NOW WHAT?

Make sure before you start assembling that you have some hardware.

You'll need:

7 - M3 hex nuts

4 - M3 square nuts (6 if you plan to use the Petsfang BLtouch mount)

7 - M3 x 10 mm screws for the adapter plate, hotend mount and 40 mm fan

4 - M3 x 12 mm screws for cooling duct (6 if you plan to use the Petsfang BLTouch mount)

2 - M3 x 20 mm screws for the 40 mm fan cap

2 - M3 x 25 mm screws for the 5015 blower fan

Make sure you install all of the captive nuts before you start screwing things in, otherwise you may have to take it back apart when you add the next component(s).

You'll also need a section of PTFE tube to connect the extruder to the hotend, the tube length may vary based on your printer's printing accuracy and the size of the fitting screwed into the extruder. Before you start screwing things in, push the tube into the extruder's fitting (make sure it goes all the way into the recessed hole in the extruder) and put a mark on the tube right where it comes out of the connector, remove the tube and measure how deep it goes. Now measure how deep it goes into the hotend using the same method. Finally, install the extruder and motor onto the mount, push the hotend into place, and measure the gap between the two fittings. Add all three measurements to get the length of tube needed. In my case with a genuine E3D V6 hotend, stock Creality metal extruder and an aftermarket PC4-M10 fitting -I used these - I got a PTFE tube length of 67.9 mm.