DJI FPV Goggles URUAV V2 Analog Module housing
Description
PDFAfter my Ture-D receiver has died, probably from too much mechanical stress, I have replaced it by an AkkTek receiver (a clone) and designed my own housing based on ideas from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4316407.
To avoid strong forces to the headstrap mounting screws I kept the mounting method with a GoPro compatible screw and nut.
Included are two lids, one matching both the True-D v3.5 and AkkTek receivers and a generic one which you can modify for your own analog module.
I have also added the FreeCad source to make modifications more easy.
UPDATE FROM 09-05-2020:
I modified the mount a bit for making room for better fixing the power cable in case the goggles are used in standalone mode. Lead the cable upwards behind the mount to prevent unwanted unplugging.
Print Settings
Printer:
Anycubic I3 Mega
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.2mm
Infill:
100%
Filament:
any PETGany Post-Printing =============
Assembly instructions
To avoid any movement of the URUAV board when connectors get plugged or unplugged, attach it to the bottom of the box with double-sided adhesive.
The receiver module will need some support to not get bent downwards when connecting antennas. I have cut a rectangular spacer sheet of about 25mm in width from an ABS sheet (you can also print one) and CA-glued it on top of the URUAV board's two power receptacles and against the module connector. Exact length and thickness depends on your specific receiver module. Just ensure that it cannot move anymore when connected and under pressure.The power switch on the URUAV board is totally useless and also underdimensioned, so I have replaced it by a solder bridge to increase reliability. I am missing a switch for just shutting down the analog module while still powering the goggles if flying digital.
Attach the lid to the casing with M2 x 10mm screws.
Tags
Model origin
The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.
