CR10/CR10S/Creality family J-HotEnd Fan Mount/Shroud/Duct
Description
PDFJ-HotEnd (OD 22.3 mm) mount for Creality printers such as Cr10/CR10S and most likely all other printers with common X carriage plate.
Attached - all STL files and for a convenience same files in 3MF format.
PLEASE READ design details/recommendations.
UPDATE - I've made slight changes for a base plate (completely removing the need for support material) and moving cable support back so please use file "BASE_V2",
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Creality
Printer:
CR-10S
Resolution:
0.2
Infill:
20-25% wherever it is "needed", I've made it all SOLID
Filament: RoHS PLA RED goes well on black How I Designed This ===================
Please read before you jump to print!
Lately, got my hands on J-HotEnd with OD of 22.3mm (link below) and decided to design for it something strong and compact using factory 40mm “body cooler” and 5015 radial part cooler.
With all my respect to all other designs – they look to me a bit of overdone, too bulky therefore less effective for [Creality](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=creality&linkCode=ll2&tag=thingiverse09-20&linkId=fb73b7199b6aab27c98136def5ec96ae&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl) or any other printers.
Above is my view and mine only! 😊
So… back to design!
Factory design - to me was very annoying to see cooler fan cooling the extruder body as well the nozzle block, plus… I really like to see what I’m printing and what is fairly possible with factory design.
My design - fully encapsulated by the duct and a thin fin at the bottom part of the hot-end (careful, it is just 1.2 mm thin) – unit body is completely isolated and warm air escapes only horizontally.
Factory part cooler (radial) is very weak with little to no success rate for quality bridging.
Chosen 5015 radial fan (link below) is different from similar type units.
Used fan is 12V/0.24A (instead of common 12V/0.12A), producing higher air volume and better air pressure.
At a later stage, probably it’s a good idea to adjust part cooling settings.
It was a pain in neck removing the rubber vibration dampers, but it is doable.
Top of the base plate is equipped with PTFE tube and cabling support.
I’ve left all original screw holes “active” so base plate is mounted on factory carriage securely.
All mounting holes (except for radial fan which is M4) are M3 and I’ve threaded all of them, yes... I’ve threaded the plastic and it holds just fine.
You’ll need to find screws of appropriate length or cut them down to needed.
Everything is printed in PLA and even after many hours of printing no damage or whatever has been observed on parts close to the nozzle block.
I haven’t tried it for a longer “distance run” but 50 mm long bridging went just perfect, I’m sure it can do better.
Please pay attention to placement of the heater block/thermal sensor wires, I’ve rotated
them to back (there is sufficient space) and with this move, most of heating source is kept away from the printed parts (just be on a safe side), as well - got better visibility onto a nozzle.
WARNING:
- due to larger hotend body size (comparing to factory MK8/MK10) you’ll be losing about 7-8 mm on Y axis and you’ll need to adjust Y axis end stop.
- I’ve removed the cover of the X axis stepper/end stop and relocated the end- stop switch. Please pay attention how far carriage goes to left to the homing position, you may not find it suitable for you unless you do the same change
- If your existing printer is capable for acceptable bridging – in general no support is necessary, you'll need it only at the right hand side where you see the cable tie holding the heater block/thermistor wires. For a base plate V2 no support is necessary - at all.
- Infill percentage up to you, I did all solid.
So… that would be all for a moment, any comments or questions are most welcomed.
Enjoy and appreciate the feedback.
Category: 3D Printer PartsTags
Model origin
The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.
