PH-163 Connector (HP Oval)

This is a makeshift HP-163 connector I made to power an old HP 5245L counter I bought from a retired electronic tech.

These connectors are nowhere to be found these days unless you want to pay through the nose for a "vintage" cable on eBay.

Fore more info on the PH-163, see here.

If you like this and want to incentivize me to make more, consider a donation.

WARNING! RISK OF DEATH!

Mains voltage is dangerous. I am not an electrical engineer and cannot guarantee the safety of my design. Make it at your own risks. If you have a doubt, do NOT build this.

CAUTION!

Old electrical devices should not be left unattended, even when they seem powered off (for example, the HP counter is still keeping its crystal oven on even when it is apparently "shut off"). One of the components could fail suddenly and cause a fire (a few diodes went up in flames while I was testing my unit). Also electrical standards have evolved and these devices are very probably less safe than modern equipment.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

Ender 3 Pro

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

200

Infill:

20

Filament: Any PLA Black

Notes:

Use tree supports, this gives the best results.

Post-Printing =============

You will need:

• a NEMA cable with ground (I salvaged an old monitor cable, and cut off the IEC connector)
3 female crimp receptacles (TE model 633381-1), that can be found [here](https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-63381-1.html) and [here](https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/63381-1/2259562), a rubber grommet (1/4 inch inside diameter), I got [those](https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/keystone-electronics/739/106230), and 2 socket head cap 10mm M3 screws and associated nuts

Assembly:

• Pass cable through the rubber grommet
Remove 1/2 inch insulation off the cable, then expose 1/8 inch of the copper on each wire. Twist the copper wire for a better grip in the crimp Crimp the receptacles to the wires
• Markings inside the connector help you find where each receptacle goes (black or brown is live, green or yellow/green is ground, and white or blue is neutral)
There is a tab on the bottom shell that prevent the receptacles from being pushed inside the body
• Install the other shell on top. Mind the grommet. It's a bit tricky because the space is tight. In the end, there should be very little metal from the receptacles visible if you look at the end
Use the screws and nuts to lock everything together. The teeth inside the housing should pinch the outside insulator just enough that you can’t yank the cable from the connector.



How I Designed This ===================

You can find the source here.

History

Update 20210521

• Uploaded two shells that can be printed independently
Changed orientation to print without needing rotation Modified printing instructions

Category: Electronics