I was searching for an open source alternative to a Kids Audio Box (e.g. Toniebox, Tigerbox, etc.) and found the Phoniebox as well as the Git for it.
I went on to design a box that would fit all components (pi, powerbox, rfid reader, etc.) and found the tigerbox aesthetically pleasing. My box is larger to fit everything, around 14cm edgewise, but its still light enough to be lifted by my son who's not even two yet.
The figurines are from thingiverse, remixed to include a slot which fits a RFID chip. Depending on the figurine put on top of the box a different playlist ist played, currently mostly kids audio books and a spotify music playlist.
All in all a very cool project that i hope to expand when my son grows older.
The files are a Work in Progress, as i'd like to include some of the changes i made in post-processing after finishing the box.
Basically you need to print one of each of the files. I used Vertigo Grey for the bottom part and ReForm rPET for the rest.
I printed everything at 0.28mm layer height, kept the bottom as-is and sanded, primed, painted and clearcoated the rest as needed.
Introduction
The Assembly can be separated into four modules:
Step 1: Back Unit
This is the simplest unit to assemble, as you just need to mount the speaker and the extension cable to the backplate.
For the speaker i used some cables i had laying around, i think around 18 gauge. I soldered them to the speaker and put a jst connector on the other end.
Step 2: Front Unit
The front contains the GPIO Buttons, that are mounted to the quarter sized breadboard.
To solder the buttons i used a common ground for all buttons and soldered the data lines directly to the pi.
If i would to this again, i would use connectors to keep it more modular.
Button Layout:
1 2 3
4 5
Button --- Function -------- Pin
1 -------- Previous title -- GPIO20
2 -------- Pause/Play ------ GPIO X (Use a free pin, BUT NOT GPIO21)
3 -------- Next title ------ GPIO26
4 -------- Volume Down ----- GPIO19
5 -------- Volume Up ------- GPIO16
Please check the pinout with your setup in mind. If there's a pin that's used for multiple functions, things will go wrong (e.g. GPIO21 is the default for Phoniebox' Pause/Play function, but has to be used by the speaker bonnet).
Step 3: Top Unit
On the top theres a recessed area for the rfid figurines. Thats the spot on the inside of the top, where you should mount the RFID Reader (if its not working, you can always disassemble the reader and mount the coils on the top and the board somewhere at the side).
The power button can be mounted in the hole, nothing special here. I used connectors to keep the design modular.
Step 4: Bottom Unit
On the bottom there is room for the powerbank and mounting holes for the pi. As you can see in the picture, i directly mounted the speaker bonnet and soldered the OnOff Shim as well as the cables from the Front Buttons on this.
Step 5: Software and Dry Fit
Now is a good time to connect everything together, setup the pi (i used Raspian Stretcher, because Buster was not supported at the time) and test, if everything is working.
Here you will need to change the pins used by phoniebox to correct any conflicts (like with GPIO 21, that in default will be used by phoniebox as well as the speaker bonnet).
At this step i found out that the top and bottom will fit nicely together, but give way if handled roughly (as is expected when used by a toddler). I bore some holes and inserted copper rods to stabilize the connection and counteract any lateral movement of the parts.
Step 6: Assemble the Phoniebox
If the software is running and the dry fit went well, you will need 8 M3 screws for the final assembly.
The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.