OnStep Smart Hand Controller SHC2+ Mods - JTW PCB- 2,4 OLED

Smart Hand Controller - SHC+ for JTW PCB

Like mentioned here: https://onstep.groups.io/g/main/wiki/7152 , there are large case files (Chad) for the SHC+. I like to have a 2.4-inch display at a slight 30-degree angle because I do not like to wear my glasses to read these tiny 1.4 OLEDs. Some might see this in common with my Rapid Bukly WSHC ... :-) This is intended. It is known to serve me well. 

I had in mind a few modifications

1. I ordered the PCB from JTW (https://www.jtwastronomy.com/products/onstep-shc2-smart-hand-controller-2-pcb-full-smt-edition ), but the PCB is much shorter than the housing is designed for

2. I liked to add a top for a 2.4-inch OLED (SSD1309), because these little 1.4/1.5 displays are much too small. I had this already constructed for my Rapid Bukly WSHC

3. Some minor mods, like screwing the PCB on or be able to use the switch

4. This is the version with the battery on NO ST4!

Remix modifications notes

This is a remix of Chad's larger case files. https://onstep.groups.io/g/main/files/3D-printables/Hand%20Controller%20Cases/Smart%20Hand%20Controller%202+%20Case

• imported the files into Fusion 360 and converted them so I can make modifications

• shorten the length (fitting the SHC2+ PCB from JTW

• added a new rear cap that fits to the 2.4-inch OLED housing

• removed the face for the OLED for better printing

• added support for the PCB

• removed the plastic hinges for the PCB and made holes, so the PCB can be screwed on (2.5 mm)

• altered the front cap and added a switch 

• changed the 4 holes for the battery indicator LED of the charge controller to one single hole to be able to put a white inlet in it.

• added a top plate for smaller buttons
  

What you need

• like on the original SHC files, you need 4 threaded inserts M3 and screws

• 4 additional M2.5 or M3 screws for the PCB

• You need an standard 2.4 OLED like mentioned here: https://github.com/apos/rapid-bulky-wshc-by-apos?tab=readme-ov-file#24-inch-oled-i2c-recommended It is an SSD1309 and is identical in connection-wise terms to the 1.5 models.

  • There are two basic models out there with different back PCB's (one bigger, one slightly smaller. So there are two housings (normal / big) to fit. 

  • Simply glue the 2.4 inch housing onto the existing top plate.

  • Be aware: I altered the top plate. It has NO inlet for the 1.5-inch model any more! If you do not like to use the 2.4 housing, you should alter Fusion 360 file accordingly

  • You need two 90-degree 5-position breakaway pin headers for the PCB and the OLED. Then you connect both with standard 10 cm Dupont wires. 

  • DO NOT FORCE THE OLED INTO THE HOUSING. Slightly bend the plastic at the top of the housing from the back, then insert the OLED and let the plastic snap back. That's it. 

• Power button: this is a work in progress. You can also add a standard switch and make another front plate in Fusion. 

• There is also a lid for putting a red glass/foil onto the OLED. So you can use it in daylight (sun) and at night (red foil on). 
  
  
  

Additional notes:

• Top plate: there are two versions: one for standard buttons and one for smaller ones (like I have for my MX keys). 

• Different OLED with different sizes (I2C -> bigger, SPI -> smaller)
  
  

  

  
  

Have fun

Cheers
Axel