***Note***
You can print the fan system parts, and as soon as my fan gets in, i will make an installation video
Made this full cover with the front door to help keep our temperature inside and also to have full access from the front with a full door. I added a fan system in it that works like a recycling system or by using the vent trap on top to let fresh air in. Also a basket on top of the fan where we can put a bag of silica to help reduce humidity.
Every parts are fully printable inside the U1 and can be colored as you feel like :)
I have added a few writing on some parts to help locate them for the assembly and, every parts will fit with tenon and mortise, but, tolerances are just "snug" for a tighter fit, so, depending on your printer setup and calibrations, a little bit of sanding and fitting might be needed.
I recommend using Super Glue to permanently lock the joints together as you assemble them :) Leave the Plexiglas acrylic panel floating inside the channels, and do not forget to melt the brass inserts where needed, before assembling the cover.
Debur every holes for the hinges and do a pre-fit with the printed PIN before assembling in order to make sure there will not be any restrictions nor blockage. NOTE to mention that you do not need to glue the PINS as they fit SNUG to the frame hinges and should be less SNUG on the door ones.
LED: There are two printed supports with clear covers to prints and install COB LED 24v to properly light the chamber, but, in order to add those, you will need to remove the top, right side panels so that we can use the LED connector from the small ones that comes with the machine. This part is a bit technical as it involves reusing the MINI-JST connector to connect the COB ones and weld the wires together. I have not use the top MOLEX 3.0 for this as i wanted to control the LED with the UI screen as OEM. If you are not comfortable welding wires, i would suggest asking some help with this. I have also added some small pocket holes on top of the frame where the LED ends to pass the wires and hide the connector inside the frame so that if the cover need to come out, we can easily disconnect those JST .
*** EDITED INFOS ***
I replaced the PLEXI STEP files with NO-MARKING on it if you have them cut with a CNC or other ways you find for your needs. I used a jigsaw with a FINE CUTTING blade and worked well.
ASSEMBLY:

Assemble each section one side at a time,
install BRASS INSERTS on LHS only
assemble section with plexy and glue joints together as you put the section together
When both LHS&RHS panel assy are done, put one side down in order to install the RAILS and plexy
4: Insert Plexy and install the other side on top and secure with glue
DOOR:
Proceed the same way you did with the frame and install in the hinges
add the post support and pin
PRINT SETUP:
layer: 0.2
walls: 4
infill: 15~25% honeycomb
supports: painted in Normal (manual) SNUG
use the IRONING function for the support

Orient parts on the lower flat planes of your bed as much as shown here :)

If you are only using the Snapmaker-Orca version, the slider adjuster control for the fan will not work!
You can only use it from within Original ORCA in FLUIDD, in order to go and mod the MACRO :(
I suggest using Paxx12 Firmware version where you have better firmware with lots more options and possibility to control your U1 :)
Understand that by installing this firmware is totally at your own risks and i cannot, nor can Paxx12, be fully responsible for any issues or damage cause by this.
Warning: While installing custom firmware does not automatically void the product warranty, any damage caused by or attributable to the installation or use of custom firmware is not covered under warranty. Use at your own risk. See Snapmaker Terms of Use for details.
Custom firmware is intended for users with appropriate technical knowledge. Ensure you understand the implications before proceeding.
https://github.com/paxx12/SnapmakerU1-Extended-Firmware
Open the Printer.cfg folder
Scroll to the [PURIFIER] macro
Copy&Replace the whole PURIFIER with these two macros
# [purifier]
# # exhaust fan
# exhaust_pin: !PA8
# exhaust_max_power: 1.0
# exhaust_cycle_time: 0.001
# exhaust_hardware_pwm: True
# # inner fan
# inner_pin: !PA9
# inner_max_power: 1.0
# inner_cycle_time: 0.001
# inner_hardware_pwm: True
# inner_tach_pin: PA6
# inner_tach_ppr: 2
# inner_tach_poll_interval: 0.0005
# # global
# power_enable_pin: PE15
# power_det_pin: PA7
# power_det_threshold: 0.88
# external_temp_sensor: cavity
[fan_generic top_hat_fan]
pin: PE15
max_power: 0.35
shutdown_speed:0 #1.0
cycle_time: 0.0300
hardware_pwm: false
kick_start_time: 1.0
off_below: 0.0SAVE & RESTART the printer :)
After the printer's reboot, go on the Home page in Fluidd and scroll down to the FAN Control section and you will see the NEW slider adjuster for the fan system

I will keep on working on this FAN system and will update when i receive the 4PINS 24v
BOM:
TINMORRY PETG-GF or higher temp grade resistance +/- 2kg
Clear PETG (for the LED covers)
7X brass insert: M3X4
8X magnets 6x2.5
3mm acrylic panels 4'x4' (see pics below for measures)
24" 8mm COB LED white 24v
2X JST XH-2A
2x JST XH-2Y
8x FEMALE PIN CONNECTOR (for JST)
48" 20ga 2 lead wire
shrink tubing
Fan 8025 4pin 24v (Aliexpress) OR a regular 2 pin 24v (need to MOD the macro for 2pins)
Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 MALE with connectors
4X Self Tap M2.5x10 (for the corner plug holders)
****NOTE ****
For a better look at the finish product, check on my Youtube channel, i will also make a special video to connect the fan properly with the MOLEX when i will have the proper fan ( yes i install the wrong one lol)
There is also my full DRYER system that i will upload for the U1 SOON :)
Thank you for your support :)
El autor ha marcado este modelo como su creación original.