Same instructions as Cédric's original Core One mod.
I printed mine in Polymaker ASA and used organic supports. To get the chamber up to 60 and keep it there while printing, I actually put the chamber heater in the bottom of the Core One L and let the plugs run out the lower corner. This made the print start faster and kept the temp consistent and above 55 much easier. It did take some effort to dial in the temp though since the header was at the bottom and the door was slightly open while I did this. I had to undershoot the target to get it to not overheat. On the larger piece I did need to use bed weld (https://a.co/d/06LVHz8V) because the corners started to warp on me.
I also made a 3MF with neoprene templates because I decided to put an adhesive neoprene between the ASA and the case. I also didn't want the big opening where the plugs pass through to remain open, so I used the neoprene to fashion a soft seal for that area as well. I used this neoprene sheet (https://a.co/d/0gWIP9Kk) to make that happen.
I used M3x10 round head to secure the box from the inside when I did final assembly. I suggest when installing the neoprene using screws longer than that and put them through the acrylic plexiglass and slide on the neoprene with the sticky side facing away from the acrylic. Then you can remove the wax paper and slide the box parts onto the screws carefully making sure to line up the neoprene on the edges correctly. Attaching the neoprene to the box this way while it is flat is much easier than trying to do it while it is mounted on the machine.
I should note that I did not attach a M3x10 to the lower right hand corner hole from the inside. The motor and pulley assembly blocks you from being able to get a M3 in there. My solution was to just put an M3x10 in from the outside without securing it with a nut. The neoprene and tightness seems to be keeping it in there, it provides a small amount of guide (although not tightness) and effectively plugs that hole. One day I will get brave enough to remove the motor and pulley assembly and properly secure that corner from the inside.
Once all the nuts are secured and tightened you should use the glue clamp to seal the seam between Parts 1 and 2. For the glue, I used a high temp black silicone adhesive (https://a.co/d/03hMQuvn) meant for ovens. It cures in ~12 hours, so I used wood clamps to hold the box tight until it was done curing.
I used the small rectangular neoprene template (which is a match to the hole for the cable passthrough) to cut two pieces of neoprene. One fits the interior hole and one is larger--I just used the exterior edge. I used the template to line them up evenly without attaching the larger piece to the template itself. Then I marked for where my cables were and cut slits for the cable to be able to pass to the location it would actually rest. Finally I removed the remaining wax paper from the larger piece and used the exposed adhesive to secure the neoprene seal around the cables and fill that hole.
The author remixed this model.
I used the Core One L CAD model from https://www.printables.com/model/1520379-prusa-core-one-l-full-cad-assembly to steal the acrylic side panel out of the STEP file in Fusion and copy it into the STEP file from Cédric's Core One mod. Using the acrylic as a template, I resized the heater box and ensured all the holes lined up properly. I also added some more of the support buttresses and spread them out evenly since the box is bigger.
The deflector also was scaled to accommodate the larger dimensions of the box to ensure the belt would still be protected from direct heat blowing on it.
I also added some templates to assist in cutting neoprene for getting a better fit.