Muzi Works Base Duo + Super IO Enclosure

This is a first draft of the radio handset designed to house the Muzi Works Base Duo and Super IO boards along with their Base Battery and whip antenna. I encountered no fitment issues, but please let me know if any are encountered so I can adjust accordingly. I designed this with no external reset button (you can press it with a pin) and with the power/GPS switch recessed so it can't be moved accidentally. The face buttons are also flush to prevent accidental presses. I'm contemplating some renditions moving forward; this is a pretty blank slate, but functional.

To print, I used the following settings (adjust accordingly for your printer, material, etc. if necessary):
Build plate: Textured PEI
Material: PETG (Others that would work well are ASA, ABS, and PA12, depending on your application)
Layer height: 0.2mm
Number of Walls: 3
Solid Layers: 5 top, 5 bottom (1mm thick solid shell)
Infill: 15-25%, Triangle
Precise Z Height: Enabled
Ironing: All top surfaces for Front plate, Back plate, and Buttons. Not necessary for insert or sleeve. I use 20% extrusion for ironing with the other settings left alone, and set top surface density to 95: to provide some wiggle room for the ironing filament to settle into the top layer.
Supports: Tree supports for the Front plate only, 0.1mm Z offset, 4-5 interface layers with tight X/Y spacing. These are only really necessary in a few areas (USB-C port, antenna breakout).
X/Y Hole compensation: 0.025mm
X/Y Contour compensation: 0.025mm
Fuzzy Skin: All walls; 0.2mm point distance; 0.05mm thickness

Print pieces with faces of the outer shell down on the build plate. Buttons are placed flare-down. Locate the 2.4GHz antenna wire pass-through channel on the insert facing up to avoid overhang. The sleeve can be placed with the top (more open) end up for easy printing.

After printing, you'll need to press the heat set threaded insert into place. I used an M2 insert and a 5mm-long M2 SHCS for this, but the face plate could be remodeled to use the last self-tapping screw from the board kits to assemble if you don't need the longevity of the insert. 

To assemble, first set the 6 face buttons into place in the front plate. These should have a good sliding fit, but not too much play. Then slide the board assembly into the enclosure, top end down and rocking it in, while prying the side wall out some to permit for the switch and USB-C connector to fit through. This should more or less snap into place bottomed out in the top shell. Then use 5 of the screws that were included with the boards to secure them into place. These should be snug, but not over-tightened, as making them too tight can actually cause some issues with the user button on the Base board under the screen being pressed slightly.

Next, the SMA connector hardware can be assembled onto the exterior. Do this before installing the battery to avoid killing the radio components. The toothed washer goes on first, followed by the nut. Again, make this snug, but do not over-tighten. Then press the sleeve into place around the mounting hardware, and screw on the antenna (this was designed to work well with the Muzi Works whip antenna; others may work, but it is not guaranteed for fit; the sleeve is optional, though, and just used to take some strain off of the SMA connector in the case of a side-load).

Following this, place the spacer insert against the back of the Super IO board, then place the battery over this with the wires passing from the bottom right corner of the battery (when the front is face-down) up to the battery connector. Make sure that the 2.4GHz antenna pigtail is passing inside of the channel and permitting the spacer to lay flat. Place the GPS antenna into the recess at the top of the case, with the pigtail looping to the right and in a U around to the connector on the board.

Finally, rock the back plate into the front plate, hooking the retention lip in at the bottom. You'll likely need to guide the battery inside of the lip as well as pull the GPS antenna against the top wall of the enclosure as you do this; the allen key that comes with the board kits actually works pretty well for this. If you want to save yourself the trouble, a spot of CA glue could retain the GPS antenna into location without needing to guide it. When the back plate is in place, insert the M5 bolt through the hole in the back plate into the threaded insert.