This is a 3D-printable case for the KBD67 MKII PCB, with a split backspace and a blocker placed atop the left control key. I created this to give myself a keyboard similar to the HHKB but with arrow keys (because I can). Do note, this is only compatible with the soldered version of the PCB.
There are 4 "layers" to the design: the top, plate, bottom, and ramp. The plate holds the Cherry-MX compatible switches, and once the switches are soldered in, holds the electrical assembly to the rest of the case. The top and bottom layers make up the core structure of the case, which hold the plate using gaskets. Finally, the ramps slope the case and give additional structural rigidity.
The case is chopped in a 2-3-2 configuration. In this case, the top part and ramp is comprised of two components, while the bottom case is made of three parts. This was done to avoid misalignment issues, and mitigates the issues associated with chopping up these parts (ideally these wouldn't be cut into sub-parts).
The following additional components are required for mechanical assembly:
The following additional components are required for the functional sub-assembly:
The following general settings where used by me:
When printing the plate, the following should be used to maximize infill layers:
Step 1: Check the Switch Plate
In the event that the first layers of the switch plate were printed too close to the print bed, the plate dimensions might be affected enough to cause the switches to improperly actuate or cause interference when assembling the keyboard case.
Before you move onto other stages, check that the plate fits in the matching gaps in the top and bottom case parts. After, place switches randomly throughout the plate and test that the switches are able to return to their top position once pressed down.
If the plate doesn't fit in the case, you may want to trim the outer tabs with flush cutters, or file it down.
If the switches fail to return properly (or your linear switches suddenly feel tactile), you can either file down the switch holes or re-print the plate.
Step 2: Preparing Screw Holes
The holes in the keyboard model may be too small for the M3 screws (depends on your 3D printer and slicer). I recommend using a hand-drill with a 2.7mm bit to manually drill out the holes prior to assembly.
Step 3: Preparing the Top Parts
For the best experience and sound, the inner surfaces of the top-case components should be sanded down. This prevents annoying noises from the switches scratching along the case's layer lines.
Step 4: Final Assembly
The keyboard sub-assembly should be assembled with the following steps:
The case is then assembled with the following steps:
And with that, you're done!
Category: Electronics
The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.