Remix Tressym Joker Racing Canopy - BleedEye/Pinch Cam Version with more holes

I found the jump from 35 to 45 degrees too big, particularly since I currently prefer a cam angle of 40 degrees in between. Based on the original design, I added more holes. To put them closer together, I reduced the size of the middle holes to 1.4 mm. Even wider screws, such as those used for the AIR II frames, fit easily. Another advantage is that they do not fall out easily. ;-)

This allowed me to put the holes closer together; with the smaller holes, the centre points are much closer together. There is exactly 0.4 mm of material between the holes. The design remains 3D printer-friendly, particularly for a 0.4 nozzle.

The TPU is strong enough that this should not be a problem. I tested it just to be sure, and before the TPU would tear, either the screw would be ripped out or the pole/standoff would break. I am confident that this is strong enough.

Depending on the slicer used, pay attention to how the model will be printed. Bambu Studio has a default outer wall width of 0.42 mm. This meant that the printer would not do full loops around the holes. It is still rigid enough, but it is harder to print and looks messier, and it might not be as sturdy as possible.

This is what it should look like (my slicer does full loops with a line width of 0.41 mm or smaller):

I also achieved good results with the 'Seam Position' random setting. It was just a cleaner print overall.

One last comment: I am a big fan of this design, and I'd like to give a huge shout-out to Ed. It's easy to print and it protects the cam and AIO really well. It also allows for good antenna mounting — I use dental floss to tie the antenna to one of the arms. With a design like this, it's always difficult to achieve the desired cam angle. This depends on the flex of the frame, how well the cam was seated in the mount, the type and stretchiness of the TPU, and so on. , there are many factors that influence the final result. Using the same mount and cam on a Lite AF frame and a Beta AIR II frame resulted in a difference of +5 degrees — all things being equal. Having those extra holes as close together as possible allows you to compensate for this and make your cam angles more similar across multiple whoops.

I added a few more holes to allow for finer adjustment of the cam angle. The middle holes are smaller (1.4 mm, so the typical screws still fit), and the distance between the holes has been decreased. 

It is slightly longer (by about half a millimeter). All other dimensions remain unchanged.