Chibineko Lynx: A Smaller Full Power Lynx

This isn't a Minx, but a full power Lynx! Perhaps a small Lynx? A Super Minx? A Smynx if you will. Nah, sounds kinda like Singaporean Minx. I'll call it a Clynx for compact Lynx. Using some Hijinx tricks and more, this Lynx variant gives up Hijinx conversion to instead go down to the length of a Minx while retaining full performance.

Features

• reduced id pump block (19.4mm), picatinny rail shifted forward 2mm

• takes Minx body bars

• uses custom printable transfer and pump bars (Held up to X6 in Nutty's testing and works smoothly on X4 on mine; you can also cut down standard pump bars and redrill the pump holes)

• pump assembly reinforcement to take stress off printed pump bars (These worked in brief testing on my 300fps Hijinx)

• Tighter fit tensioner assembly

• modified tensioner Remnant scar

• modified catch3 to sit tighter in 36mm Kury PTs

• tightened Foamgasm mag release linkage

• heightened sear face

• adjustable trigger takeup

• high flow turnaround with shallower o-ring groove to force a tighter seal with the pt

• floating seal tpu plungerhead for 36mm kury pt o rings and with 7mm delayed airbrake (to utilize more air volume)

• depriming block to enable conventional depriming (still under testing and development)

(many of these I have already posted in some form)

Hardware:

• standard Lynx hardware kit

• Nekomata add-on hardware kit

• Kury 36mm PT using the "cut in half" option but with special instruction to cut at 1.5" or 38mm instead (0.1 mm longer if cut in imperial); use Nutty's minx catch3 if you cut down a standard 1.375" or 35mm PT

• Minx body bars, plunger guide tube, threaded rod (you can also cut down the parts from a lynx kit and file the body bar notch back in with a 3/16" round file)

• catch3: 4mm ptfe/bowden tubes

• foregrip: 2x m5 nuts, 2x m5x25 screws, m4x40 pin, m3x20 screw, m3 nut (optional, my foregrip has been fine without the nut)

• extended rail pump blocks: m3x20/30 screw for reinforcing the extended section

• adjustable trigger: m2x5 screw (motor screw for flywheel cages)

• scar: 10lb string (can be fine with other weights), m3x6 flat head screws (for the tensioner)

Manufacturing bars:

While not strictly necessary, making proper bars can make this feel better (printed bars will still want to bend and creak with proper shimming if you bend back a vfg a lot when priming), and the transfer bar will flex a tiny bit when seating tight rams).

Use Dan's Flatbar drawings and subtract the numbers below where appropriate (it gets messy mixing metric and imperial) if you are making bars from stock. Transfer bar is custom. you can try flipping the transfer cutout to the other side and cutting a new one using a print as a template. For the pump bars, I provided a drill jig. Use the catch block screws to secure your pump bar and use a #25 drill to drill the new holes. Cut off the excess sticking out of the jig and clean up the bar.

Using Other Bodykits:

Most pieces I changed are drop in. To fit the Clynx pump into another bodykit, just shave 38mm from the middle of the body spacer and 51mm from the middle of the shroud and make sure it has the Remnant cutout.

Notes:

• The pump enters deep into the receiver. Use an afg or mount your foregrip farther forward to avoid pinching your thumb. Your foregrip may also collide with the lower back of the basic shroud, but that can flex out if it's slim (this is true of the included foregrip).

• The foregrip uses a sacrificial layer to help the bore form. Punch through it with a screw.

• Makes sure to shim the pump assembly so there is no room for the spacer to slide back and forth

• The deprime module originally pushed the catch too far up and caught on the opposite side. Use the modified catch1 to resolve this.

Used some Minx internals and tweaked the shell to be shorter. Modified stock, magwell, and tensioner wheel.