Elegoo Centauri Carbon Top Lid Slider & LED's

I really liked the remix that Kange designed so I could slide the top glass lid back for cooling and maintenance, but I'm paranoid about the glass lid jumping out when the printer is doing an impression of a washing machine on an unbalanced full spin lol.

The rails allow the lid to be slid back about two thirds without tipping out. (a strip of self adhesive wire harness cloth tape, on each side ensures a nice smooth sliding action). The two clamps under the front, stop the frame from tipping back (turn in and out to release/lock). The glass lid can still be slid out from the back.

I made the frame internal measurements a tighter fit for less movement, I glued all the parts together with epoxy resin on a flat surface to obtain a rigid frame. lining out the surface that touches the original frame with the self adhesive cloth tape ensures a really nice snug, non rubbing fit.

I wired the 24v LED strips direct to the LED socket main board, so can be operated as per the poor LED original. I disconnected the original plug and cable tied it to one side. I used a cut down lipo balance lead plug to connect to the original LED socket, my makeshift plug doesn't have a clip to keep it in place so I cable tied the wires to the next set of plug wires.

There is a chamber to hide a plug for the LED wires so they can be disconnected and the lid can be lifted off if required. The new LED wires just follow the other wires up to the top. I designed a cable tube to hide the wires and keep them safe. This is fastened using an existing screw.

The rails allow the lid to be slid back about two thirds with out tipping out.

Two clamps under the front, stop the frame from tipping back.

The frame internal measurements are tighter for less movement side to side.

There is a chamber to hide a plug for the LED wires.

The dog bones are bevelled for easier fitment.