Completely Motorized Filament-Respooler (Cont'd)

Edit 28-Dec-2025: I apologieze that I forgot one complete subassembly. I missed the filament guide system. I added it today. Sorry for any inconvenience.

First of all I like to kindly thank @GekoPrime for his development of the base machine. Many parts are also used or were modified which based on @GekoPrime's design (“Original”). THANK YOU!

Second I like to thank to @werner_rh for the excellent support on programming the machine. With his state-of-the-art state machines the machine runs like a charme! WERNER, THANK YOU VERY MUCH! 

Based on original Pastamatic respooler from @GekoPrime’s design I did a complete rework oft the machine. Therefore, @GekoPrime, I hope you understand that I declare this machine as my new design, and not a remodel. Hope you agree. 

The working idea and some basic parts are still (basically) original.  Therefore, I post a complete set of parts for this machine. Please understand that a free of any charge machine does not necessarily provide a 100% BOM and description. I put some hundred hours and couple kilograms of filament into this design.

The basic outlines of this machine in regard to a.m. original is a lot of improvements and enhancements.

• A DC-motor drives the winding process. This motor is PWM-controlled. Thus, speed adjustable. The motor is a 12V geared motor.

• The spool spindles have received Neodymium magnets for holding the spacers, which are used in case of too large holes in the spools. Note that all the magnets shall have the same polarization. Herefore I recommend my tool for polarity definition: https://www.printables.com/model/671057-north-and-southpole-of-a-magnet 
  as well as the magnet sorter: https://www.printables.com/model/911161-rotary-magnet-dispenser

• The drive spindle has another magnet for the Hall-sensor of the speed-controlled filament mover.

• The filament mover is now driven by a stepper motor. A.m. Hall-sensor drives the stepper one filament width (1.75mm) further each revolution. Two limit switches will be adjusted in accordance with the width oft he upwinding spool. A knurled knob is used to fine-tune the upwinding process. With that you are able to shift the winding row a bit to one or the other side. Approx. +/- 1mm.

• The filament mover runs on a MGN 12H 150mm linear slide. Driven by the stepper motor with a GT2 belt with 6mm width. A pulley suitable on your stepper motor axis and idler pully are required, 20 teeth each, idler doesn’t necessarily need teeth.

• Limit switches (LS) are wired as Normally Open (NO). You need two of them. Photograph shows a similar LS as I used.

Purchased parts:

• Ball bearings 608, you will need 6 pieces

• DC-Motor 12V 200RPM

• PWM motor controller

• Meanwell power supply DR 15-12 or equivalent. This fits my design best

• Linear slide MGN 12H 150mm. Hole distance of slide 20x20mm both directions, rail 150mm long

• Step motor Nema17 17HS4023, this is a pancake type, any other may fit as well. Nema 17

• Stepper driver A4988

• Magnets: Neodyminum types and sizes:

  • Spindles: each spindle needs three magnets ø6x2mm = 12 pieces

  • Spacers (for spindles): ø6x2mm = 12 pieces

o   Magnet for Hall sensor: ø4x2mm = 1 piece! Mind polarity with the Hall sensor, it only works one orientation

Main motor mount: ø8x4mm, spindle lock (mounted to motor mount) ø8x4mm. These magnets need to be inserted during printing process. 

• Hall sensor type A3188. I used the small PCB-variant

• Step Down Buck converter for 12V down to 5-6VDC for Arduino Nano

• Arduino Nano

• 1 cord in

• 1 main power on/off switch

• 3 push buttons

• 3 LEDs with resistors etc.

• A couple of square nuts M3, (approx. 5.2x5.2x2.0 thick mm). Try yours out!

• Bunch of screws and heat inserts M3

Machine is completely designed / redesigned in TinkerCad. 

Most parts are printed in PLA, some in PETG, when flexibility is required. As there are so many parts, I cannot remember which I printed how. Please check this out yourself. Some experience with 3D-printing and electronics is expected.

Assembly:

Main Structure:

Definition: DC-motor is mounted left and front. Brake is mounted right!

Four main parts receive square nuts (1 each). The crossbars have printed in definitions („brake“, „drive“). Slide „drive“ crossbar (text „drive“ comes to bottom!) into front and read main structures (left, resp. drive side) and fasten with screws. M3x20. Next slide in the main-crossbar to achieve a nice square structure, this ist he machine’s left side. I never glued one of these crossbars.

Now prepare the brake, the adjustment spindle consists two parts, one left and one right thread. Check out what fits where, then turn both spindle parts into the brake nut. The orientation results from the parts. You can put some glue into the nut for fastening the spindles with the nut for one part. Now assembly the „Brake_Main_Left with Main_Brake_Right. They should only fit one way. Note that there are left and right threads.

This assembly (assy) should look like on the screenshot now.

Next arrange the right main structure parts that the brake comes in the middle, now slide the crossbar („brake“ with text showing bottom) in and tighten the M3x20 screws with the square nuts in the main structure holes.

Add the brake plate with two screws and slide in the TPU brake flaps (4x).

Now put the left and right main structure together by sliding left structure over the pins of right structure. If everything fits nicely, you may glue the two main strutre parts together.

Insert six ball bearings into foreseen places and before securing them put the spindle clamps in by inserting the parts „Bolt_22“ and „Bolt_22_NoRim“. NoRim-parts are where the spindle clamps are working as axle, „Bolt_22“ is for snatching the clamp, when closing. Hard to explain, but see pictures! Secure the Bolts with Bolt-Clips.

Mount the DC-motor to the „DC_MotorMount_NeoDym“. Four M4 screws required. Prior to this you may assemble the „SpindleLock_NeoDym“ over the motor mount, check that you put the neodym magnets correctly, both parts should attract each other. This function is for keeping the drive spindle in place during winding process. Use a PETG filament fort he hinge. Heat it up a bit and deform, so it stays in place.

Two M8x40mm screws, hex or cylinder head and two M8 nuts are needed to mount the DC-motor mount to the „main structure front left“. An additional Bolt_42 is inserte into the third hole oft he motor mount, secured with another Bolt-Clip. Reason for this big design is original Pastamatic design. I let it as it was. The Hall-Sensor holder comes later!

Next is the filament guide: Attach the MGN rail to the „Slider Rail“, I used self tapping screws. Put the slider over it and pay a hell of attention, not to loose any balls.

Secure the „Slider Rail“ with two M3 screws to the main structure.

Step motor is secured by two short (bottom) and two long screws (top, through „LS_Slider_Rail“). Tensioner will have a long M4 screw tob e inserted into the „Belt_Idler_Tensioner“. Not easy to find an appropriat screw. Maybe a M4 grup screw (30mm) or cut-off M4 thread and saw a slit for screwdriver. The belt is fastened to the „PTFE_Holder-Block“ and „Belt_Fastener“. A heat-insert M3 is in the PTFE Holder-Block“

View from Bottom:

Put on the „LS_Slider_Rail“ with Limit Switches attached. Mind the orientation. See screenshot. Knurled nuts receive grub screws M3, (not too long!!) and will be screwed in into M3 square nuts of „LS_Slider_Left / Right“. Check clamping function.

Mount filament guide „PTFE_Holder-Block“ on linear slider (4xM3 screws). Insert a square nut into (yellow) „PTFE_Holder“. This is for adjusting the lateral position during winding. As a correction. See screenshot: From left to right: Screw M3x30 mm, Washer, PTFE-Holder with inserted Square Nut, Washer, M3 Nut, Knurled Nut Corpus, Nut. Screw this together for smooth adjustment. Wen you turn the knurled nut, the PTFE-Tube-Holder slides a bitt o front and/or to rear. This can provide you during winding process a certain correction of balancing front and rear roll-up.

That should be the mechanical assembly of the machine.

Assembled Machine:

Controls:

Hal-Sensor:

View:

Neodym Magnet for Hall-Sensor:

Electric (this is the crucial part):

Mount main power switch into the lid.

Rear side has control LED and white push button to move PTFE-Holder to rear. Front side has control LED and white push button to move PTFE-Holder to front.

Then from left to right, front panel: Red LED for Setup-Mode, below Green LED for Operating mode, then green push button for start of process. Right knob for PWM-control of DC-motor.

Wire up everything i.a.w. the electric scheme.

Adjust the A8988 Driver i.a.w. instructions for current.

My Meanwell Power Supply unit is mounted on hat rail in the front left niche oft he electric case.

Limit switches are lead through holes in the case, Hall-Sensor cable (VIN, GND, Sensor) is lead with DC-motor cable through a duct into the cabinet.

When everything is wired up correctly, you may start up the machine by switching power (main power knob). The PWM knob should be in OFF-position.

Now is the time to attach the „Hall-Sensor-Holder“ tot he main structure Front/Left. See screenshot. Attach the Hall-Sensor’s PCB with small ø2 self tapping screws to the Holder.  Check the position, when the spindle’s Neodym passes the Hall-Sensor correctly, mark this place with a Sharpie pen, then glue it securely to the Basic structure („Front-Left“), I used some „Activator“ for secure gluing.

Check directions:

• ·      Unwinding spool (right) should rotate clockwise (CW) for unwinding.

• ·      Upwinding spool should rotate also clockwise for upwinding.

Operation:

Put a full spool on the right and secure it by engaging the „Spindle_Clamp“s. Use the „Spool-Adapters“ if needed. That is when the spool inner diameter is larger than the spindle. Neodyms hold the „Spool-Adapters“ in place, if you oriented the magnets correctly.

Put an empty spool tot he left and carefully engage the spool with the „D-shaped“ axle of the geared DC-motor. Close the „Spindle_Lock“, which should hold by Neodym magnets.

After powering up the Red LED lights up. You may drive to rear by holding the rear push button, until the limit switch (LS) stops this. Same with front push button. Adjust the LS toto the appropriate width front and left.

Maybe it is a good idea to adjust the adjusting screw (Knurled nut) so the PTFE-Holder is in the middle, providing you a nice range of adjusting to right or left.

Now lead the filament from right to left spool. The upwinding process always starts from front position. Not rear.

Once you set both LS correctly, then push the Green Push Button for start. The PTFE-Holder goes to fron position until LS is switched, then Green LED blinks. Ready for start.

Another push on the Green Push Button (at any time) goes back to Setup-mode.

As soon as the DC-geared motor starts, the Neodym passes the Hall-Sensor. One step of 1,75mm is provided. The machine works best when at least a moderate speed is adjusted. Too slow speed may cause some malfunctions.

During winding process you observe some uneven roll ups. Means front side has bigger heap as rear side (or vice versa), in this casei t may help to adjust the PTFE-Holder position tot he lesser heap, this takes some windings away from one side and gives it tot he other side.

During winding process also control the effectiveness of the brake. Tighten the brake or untighten, just like you feel. Too much brake is not good, this gives you a too tight winding. Bear in mind, this is an winding process, not an industrial production. In the end, as long as the roll provides an uncomlicated steady unwinding, no jam, no nothing, all is good! BEAR THIS IN MIND!

Just play with you best installation.

After winding goes to the end, you slow down the speed, just when a couple windings are tob e done. Stop the machine then before the filament leaves the unwound roll, as this may cause uncontrolled filament on the upwound side. Loose filament may end up in unwanted tangles.

After finished winding, push green Button to stop the Arduino from further stepping the motor. Now you are again in Setup-mode and good for another winding.

Here you may find the Arduino code (.ino) and more information about Werner's Arduino programming: https://github.com/werner-rh/gw-filamentWinder 

Good luck! And Happy Printing!

Explore my other Printables: https://www.printables.com/de/@Tritschi