Ikea Samla 45l Filament Buffering Dry Box V2

Smart Dry Box designed for Ikea Samla 45l box. Top loading of 6 spools, 6 removable wheel buffers and 2 desiccant boxes.
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updated April 27, 2023

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Can anyone help me i dont know what files i need for the desicannt boxes.

Can anyone tell me how much Silica pearls (grams) i need to fill one desiccant box?

Hello There! Can you please give us the STP file? Fusion is not available to all of us, but STP is general! Thank you in advance @Canislupus

I love the concept and even though it has some drawbacks, I want to give full 5 stars for the effort and thought, that went into designing the system!

The prints are (mostly) straight forward and the documentation is excellent!

I added magnetic couplers ourside of the box so I can easily change the loaded filament with minimal PTFE tubes flailing around.

My main issues were:
* The desiccant boxes didn't know they should be without perimeters, so I had to fix the modifiers to work with Bambu Studio/Orca.
* The open ends of the PTFE-tubes, that directly interface with the spools, can get caught on spools with hollow walls like Sunlu, which have window-like openings. I had to print some diamond-shaped attachments for the tube's end to prevent that. Also there is an issue with near-empty spools getting pulled off the spool holder (happened to me 4-5 times on the last 10% of a sunlu spool)
* The spool holders are kinda hard to move on the rods. I added a bunch of nuts to hold each divider in place.
* 2 wraps around the buffer wheels are too little buffer for my concrete setup and a 3rd wrap resulted in the filament reading as tangled, because of the added friction. When I push my filament all the way back it gets pushed in the neighbouring lanes. But so far I had no sharp kinks or tangles with the neighbours, so that's more of a aesthetic issue and less functional.

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Really nice model. I built two of them to cover most of my spools to work with the MMU. I noticed slight tension when putting on the base of the filament buffer, as if the T-shaped parts were to wide to fit the screw holes on the base, but it worked out so far. Later, I noticed that a PTFE tube with 2x4mm (ID/OD) is creating to much friction to the whole filament path. I saw that Prusa is using a 2,5x4mm tube for the MMU, so I bought some with this dimension and it was a lot better.
Thanks for sharing!

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@Purrfect3D do I need to buy extra ptfe tubing for this box or do I just use what came with the mmu? Also where did you source all your parts from?

@Cjmorel84_569237 I bought separate PTFE tubings as I did not want to cut down the stock ones. I bought some tubings from Prusa (listed as replacement for MMU) and some from amazon, because Prusa does not offer longer tubings as the 650mm, but I needed >1m for some. But I definitely recommend to look out for 2,5x4mm ID/OD tubings (same dimensions as Prusa) to have lower friction (instead of only 2x4mm). The M3 screws and threaded rods I bought from my local hardware store, for the bearings I bought the cheapest 608zz bearings from amazon in bulk. They absolutely do their work, even if they are cheap :)

Thanks for this model on the whole it's great! However there are some issues that I've been experiencing under certain scenarios.

1 - If I use the length of PTFE tubes as shown in the authors pictures inside the dry box, then sometimes I find the PTFE tubes can become wedged between the side of spool material (cardboard or plastic) and the remaining filament on the spool. This then jams and my printer starts 'air printing'. The solution is to use PTFE tubes only 2 inches long or so.

2 - As a spool of filament is used the weight of the spool becomes lighter and I often find that the spool has a tendency to lift up off the bearing rollers where it then becomes wedged up against the buffer apparatus. This mainly occurs with cardboard spools but it has also occurred with plastic spools. I have yet to find a satisfactory fix.

I believe this problem occurs as the filament is being rolled off the top of the spool instead of being pulled from the bottom of the spool (like a free standing spool roller would typically work).

I'm contemplating some kind of redesign that would allow the filament to be pulled off from the bottom rather than the top but before I attempt this I wanted to raise it here to make others aware of these issues and invite other ideas and solutions as I can't be the only person experiencing these problems?

The pictures attached are of my printed dry box, I'll add pictures of the issues in due course. Please note I've not yet trimmed all of the PTFE tubes to a stubby length, hence the different lengths in the images. (edited)

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@TSWK_1907171
I also have this issue, i've mede several attempt with ptfe tube length but no great result.

Finally i've made this
https://www.printables.com/model/1285745-spool-stop-for-roller
And nor more issue for the moment (edited)

Printed on prusa MK4s,
took most time to print all parts off but assemble was quite easy.
I love my Prusa MK4s but this is so much better than original mmu3 buffer setup with original enclosure,
thank you Canislupus (edited)

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This Drybox is perfect for a MMU3

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Printing my 2nd 5 spool box
added some quick releas fittings to the tube to change box (in to the MMU)
https://www.printables.com/model/52422-ptfe-tube-quick-release-coupler-updated

after some use i noticed that 2 spools where not turning nice
i've added 2 xtr spoolholders to fix it
It's the spacing if u use only 5 spools (edited)

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Anybody tried to slice the Desiccant Box v2 (all).3mf in bambu studio? I had the file opened in prusa slicer and copied the settings for the modifiers over, but still only seems to apply for the top and bottom layers, the walls are still solid.

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@teezzz20_244814 Did you figure out how to do it? I just noticed, that I had the same issue after printing for 5 hours...

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@Typ_im_dunke_2703480 I can't remember why I couldn't get it to work initially back then, but I just opened the file again in bambu studio and set all the cutout modifier objects to have 0 wall loops, 0 shells, and it's working now.

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A quite complex build because of all the parts to be assembled, but well documented and easy to print by itself.
Works as expected, even though the handling of the MMU is more challenging ;)

Thanks for the nice and compact storage solution to keep my filament dry.

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