Printer Took Kit V1.0

This is a tool and spares case which was originally designed for my Voron printer, but I removed the logo so it can work with any printer now (or other things too I'm sure).  It's similar to my Bambu Labs X1 & P1 Spare Parts Case (Version 4.0), and goes together the same way.  This model has a new gasket design, and instead of hotend holders, I've added latching bins in base, which are more useful for most users (since there is no one hotend type used by all printers).  If you happen to use the Bambu hotends however, you can find some hotend holders which will also fit this case in the Bambu X1/P1 Case design here.  There is also the option to install an Apple Airtag in the case, which can be installed in the small compartment which includes some MicroSD card holders and a label.

There are multiple ways which you can build this case, with the options shown below, based on the included 3mf profile.  

Each option has a box drawn around the required plates, which are labeled from “A” to “E” and explained below:

The options shown in the pic above are:

• A: Top (lid) with a TPU Gasket.  Use plates 02 (PLA), 06 (TPU)
• B: A shorter latch which can be used if you find the regular latch is not tight enough when using the TPU gasket.  Use this with caution and please let me know your feedback on it.  Use plate 08 (PETG)
• C: All the base modules and lids.  There are 2 design options.  Use plates 3, 11, 14 (PLA or PETG), 7 (PETG)
• D:  All the top modules and lids.  There are 2 design options, and an option for a top with a TPU gasket, or without the gasket.   Use plates 13 (PLA or PETG), 18 (PETG)
• E:  This is an alternate cover for the large bin in the top module.  It can hold two Allen wrenches using some 8x3mm cylinder magnets.  Use plate 13 (PETG)

Tips on building it:

I recommend using safety glasses since there are a few parts that must snap in place. 

This will require some M3 hardware to assemble. Specifically, it requires the following screws:

• (14) M3 x 6mm BHCS
• (4-6) M3 x 10mm SHCS
• (2) M3 x 14mm SHCS
• (2-4) M3 x 20mm SHCS
• (4) M3 x 25mm SHCS or (2) M3x50mm SHCS
• (2) M3 x 30mm SHCS

BHCS = Button Head Cap Screws

SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screws

FHCS = Flat Head Cap Screws

Additionally, the optional large compartment door with the Allen key holder requires two 8x3mm cylinder magnets.

PLEASE READ:

Please don't force the lid closed if the latch seems too tight, since that may crack the case.  If you have an issue, please post in the comments and I will try to assist. 

The included 3mf profile is set up for a Bambu X1C with a 0.4mm nozzle.  I converted the profile over from a Bambu Studio profile to an Orca profile, for folks who do not use Bambu printers.  The original profile was tested, but I did not reprint the whole thing to test the Orca profile.  If you find an issue with it, please post a comment to let me know.

The images of the printed parts were edited to remove some logos which I had placed on the case I printed. 

Please also preview the plate in the slicer and verify that the prime tower will not interfere with the print.  I've resized and placed the prime towers in the profile so they will not interfere.

The images below show the installation of the latch parts.  You can also find more info on assembly on the build guide here:

https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/bambu-spares-box-build-guide.html

Step 1: Assemble the hinges

The hinges require the following parts:

(4) M3 x 25mm SHCS (or 2 M3x50mm SHCS for the hinges)

A long ball end Allen key or long H2.5 driver bit will be very helpful for assembling the hinges (I use a 100mm H2.5 bit with a cordless screwdriver).  If using a power screwdriver, go slow, otherwise the friction of the screw going into the plastic could cause the screw to melt the plastic and veer off course.  If you have M3x50mm screws, you can use a shorter bit and just drive the screws in from the outside in one pass per side, which is bit easier.  

Step 2: Install the handle

The handle requires the following parts:

(2) M3 x 20mm SHCS

The case handle installs on the bottom shell (base) of the case with two M3x20mm SHCS screws.

Step 3: Assemble the latches

The latches require the following parts:

• (2) M3 x 20mm SHCS
• (2) M3 x 30mm SHCS
• (2) M3 x 8mm SHCS (or FHCS)
• (2) M3 x 14mm SHCS
• (2) 8x3mm cylinder magnets (optional, if using the Allen Key holders)

The images below show the steps to install the latch inserts, and assemble the latches.  If the inserts are too tight, give them a light sanding, so they slide into the dovetail grooves in the case shells.  

I don't expect this to be a problem, but if you find the latches are too tight, and the case will not close without forcing them, please stop, and either try the “REG” latches from plate 08, or post a comment and I will try to assist.  If you force a latch closed, which is extremely tight, you risk cracking something due to the stress that will place on the hinges and latch components.

If you find the latches are too loose, you can try the shorter laches on plate 8 of the profile.  Otherwise I recommend using the “Reg” (regular) latches on plate 08, which should work.

Step 4: Install the optional gasket

Step 5: Install the large compartment modules in the base

The large modules in the base are interchangeable, and install using two M3x10mm SHCS screws per side:

Step 6: Assemble the compartment doors

To assemble the latches for the small compartment doors, two M3x6mm BHCS (or SHCS) will be needed.  They assemble by sandwiching the door with the top and bottom latch parts, which then connect using the screws (which are installed from below).   Note that when assembling the doors and latches, the flat (smooth) side of the door should face outward when finished.  The side which has some extra structure will face inward on any doors which have that.  

The image below shows the orientation of the parts for assembly:

To assemble the optional door with the Allen wrench holders, a pair of 8x3mm cylinder magnets are required.  Install the magnets into the open end of the inserts, and then snap the inserts into the compartment door.  The inserts are not the same, so take care to note the orientation of the parts when assembling.  It may help to use an Allen wrench to help align the inserts and confirm they are in the correct orientation.

To install the doors into the case, it will help to start by lining the doors up at an approximately 30-45° angle and then pressing in one hinge at a time.  For the large door, install one side hinge, then the middle and finally the last side hinge. 

Step 7: Install the small module in the base

The single small module in the base installs with two M3x20 SHCS for the label module option, and Mx10 SHCS for the bin options:

There are two options for the small bins (as seen in the right side pic above). One is open with no top, and the other has a latching lid for the top, which is installed by snapping the hinges of the lid in place.  The open bin which uses a lid has additional rails on the side and holes for the hinges (so take note that you print the correct open bin if you want to use the small lidded version).

The small module with an microSD card holder is also designed with a hidden pocket to place an Apple Airtag.   It can be seen in the left pic (in green) and just installs in the pocket before installing the small module.

Step 8: Install the case label

The outside case label is just pressed into place.  Take note of the orientation though, so it does not appear upside down when closed.  The orientation shown in the image below is correct:

There is an alternate case label on plate 8, which allows for using Brother P-Touch 12mm labels, otherwise text can be inlayed on the labels in the slicer.  There is some info and a graphic showing the steps to add text modifiers to create custom labels on my blog here (they are for a different design, but the concept is the same).

Other Stuff:

If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints.

You can find the other things I'm working on at my blog here.  You can also follow me here on Printables or on MakerWorld, to see what new stuff I post. 

If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:

https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff

And finally, this design has been a lot of fun to work on, but has consumed a couple rolls of material in testing, and taken several weeks to get completed in my off time (but this is my hobby and I love making this stuff).  The overall design of the cases has evolved with the suggestions, help and feedback of the kind folks here, so please feel free to provide honest feedback to improve the design.  I cannot guarantee every suggestion will be worked on, but I will look at them all.  I only ask that you please consider either not rating, or commenting first to get help, before giving a low rating, should you have a print failure unrelated to the model or profile.  Some of these parts are large, so failures can be frustrating, and having a bucket of prototype prints, I understand that pain too.