Razor MX500/MX650 Fardriver bracket with Battery Disconnect Switch (kill switch) mount point

Needed a Disconnect Switch for my Razor MX500 to prevent my 48V LiFePO4 battery from being slowly drained by ghost controller current that keeps slowly being drawn even after turning the controller key switch to off. 

I found this nice rotary 60V rated kill switch that looks like a gas cap on Amazon, plus it has an integrated voltage meter when you turn it on, so decided to design this bracket set kit that can be used to hang the Fardriver ND72260 size controller off the top tube plus has the tapped mounting points for the above  switch using the M5 Bolts that are come in the package already. Worked perfectly. All that was needed is to bore out the top of the MX500/650 tank plastics with a 2-1/8" (54mm) hole saw, centering the hole at the center of the gas cap. 

Items needed: 

• 1x Fardriver controller - This model works for the ND72260, and I believe a few others like the ND72200 as long as the mounting holes are 90mmx161mm apart
• 60V rated kill switch (affiliate link) using it's included surface mount base and 4x M5 hex screws that are long enough to attach to this bracket 
• 4x M8 bolts 
• 4x M8 nuts - to attach the controller to the brackets 
• A 2-1/8" (54mm) hole saw (ensure it has a pilot bit in the center to make sure it ends up lined up to the mounted switch under) 

Word of caution: This switch is only rated for 60V max, so this may not be sufficiently rated if you're on a 72v or higher setup. It will work, but anything above 60v will be over its rated max.

Alternative use of model: If you don't want to use a battery disconnect switch like I do here, you can also just print the small bracket twice and use to hang a bare controller like many other brackets out there. There is notches built into the small bracket to allow the plastic gas tank plastics on the MX500/650 to attach better that other brackets that I tried out  which don't let the back screw go all the way down to the top tube because of interference (leaving the tank plastics sort of floating). 

Printing:

• Use 4 to 6 Wall loops for strength and 25-35% infill
• The small rear bracket is simple, print on the edge that does not have the notch against the print bed 
• The large combo front bracket should be printed also on the edge that has the controller support wings (front) against the print bed. You need to use a good amount of outer brim 8-10mm and keep a higher bed temp (+5° or +10° above normal temps) to improve bed adhesion since it's an angled tower that needs bed adhesion to be strong so weight at the top does not tip it over. 

Enjoy, and if you feel like supporting this 3D model effort, be sure to use my affiliate link above to purchase the kill switch mentioned. Thanks all and enjoy!