DIY Projector Screen Motorization Retrofit Kit (Rollerhouse)

Motorized Retrofit Kit for Manual Pull-Down Projector Screens. Replaces siding mount and integrates a roller shade motor
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updated August 30, 2025

Description

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This mount is designed to replace the existing fixed-end (crank side recommended) bracket of your projector screen. It houses a 12V Rollerhouse roller shade motor, which slides directly to the screen's tube. The other side of the screen remains on its original fixed bracket.

  • Feature: The design reuses the screen's original tube (if you don't want to purchase a roller shade tube) making it a cost-effective upgrade.
    • One Model Includes battery storage housing within the bracket.
  • Compatibility: Ideally suited for screens with a ~1.5" (approx. 38mm) diameter tube, which is a very common size. (the exact size of my tube is about 26mm)
  • Installation: The mount is secured directly to the projector screens housing unit, replacing the existing bracket.



What You'll Need (What I used).

  • Roller Shade Motor: Rollerhouse DM25CE 1.5N 12V Roller Shade Motor.
    • What I used
    • My screen is 100" so I made sure to get a motor that could handle at least 12 lbs.
  • Battery: 12V Rechargeable battery.
    • What I used.
    • There are 3 holes in the back of the mount, 2 are standard air holes, the larger one will perfectly fit the charging fitting on this battery, you may need to use some needle nose pliers to shove it in there. 
    • Female 2 pin JST connectors for the battery. (What I used)
  • Hardware: Screws for mounting the bracket to the projector screen housing unit (I reused the existing screws that came with my projector).
  • Tools: Screwdriver, drill, needle nose pliers, possibly a wrench.
  • A Non-Motorized Projector Screen: lol
  • A friend :^)
    • I, however, did this on my lonesome and it sucked.



(Usage Instructions)

  1. Dismount projector screen housing from tripod.
  2. Disassemble the existing fixed-end bracket from the screen's tube. (preferably the crank side and pull out the spring to not overbear your roller motor) 
  3. Pop the battery in the bracket if you're using the exact battery linked above. 
  4. Attach the roller motor to the 3D-printed motor mount. Make sure it slides in well and has a secure fit (it should not move once inserted). the exact mount within the housing unit fits the Rollerhouse motor and gives it more than enough base to handle the motors torque. 
    1. There will be some addition space between the motor and the screens tube, you will want to use the Motor tube spacers below to fill that space, so the screen does not slip out of the opposite brackets hole (there is metal rod that sticks out of the projector screen tube and into a hole to keep the rolled screen centered)
  5. In my case, I needed to measure the screens rod and drill a small hole and screw into the 25.5mm fitting (below) because the spring projector screens do not have the grooves inside the tube. 
  6. program your motors settings. 
  7.  

Additional notes, I used PLA for this. Also, I am brand new to 3D printing so I still dont know the proper settings but this is what I have:

Ender 3
infill density: 50%
infill pattern: cubic
support type: Normal, Everywhere
turn that bad boy on and pray

 

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The author marked this model as their own original creation.

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