Rey Light Saber Upper Section and Bottom Section mods

Update 8/18/2025: Added an optional Bottom Section to reduce gluing and allow some parts on the bottom section to removed and replaced, exception - the Lower Chamber still needs to be glued to Grip.  Weird occurrence: I intended to upload all files in STEP format, but I could not use the STEP version of Pommel 4, it would only include half the model, so I had to upload an STL version of Pommel 4.

Immediate update  8/15/2025: 

OK, the reason I don't normally like gluing parts:

After just publishing the other profile, I thought about being able to change the upper section.  Since I glued it, I couldn't do that without printing entire model.  So, the answer came to me in my sleep - I am adding 2 STEP files, an optional Upper Chamber and the tab as part to screw into the Upper Chamber.  Now, you can glue the tab into the middle section, the grip, and if you want to change or modify the top section, you can unscrew it.

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8/14/2025: First, kudos to CaseStudyno8 for a great design of Rey’s Light-saber. (https://www.printables.com/model/870142-rey-skywalkers-lightsaber)

These comments and design modifications are for the upper section of the light-saber.

I had a few issues with the Emitter teeth design where they snapped onto the bar in the Upper Emitter. I broke about 20 teeth.  I thought there may be a better way.  I am a fan of using filament as axles.  So, I resigned the Upper Emitter by splitting it at the Emitter Teeth axles, making the Emitter Teeth with enclosed ends and using filament for teeth rotation.  You should cut the filament length at about 14.5mm. I designed the upper part of the Upper Emitter in a way that it enclosed the lower portion of the Upper Emitter. To assemble this I found it best to lay the top portion on table, insert the teeth and then insert the bottom portion by pushing down onto the top (upside down) part. At first this let the teeth rotate too far back and so I added a block that only let them rotate a smaller angle.  You can see the gap in the picture with the brown assembly.

As far as the Upper Rotator: I had an issue with the Upper Rotator going to high and occasionally coming out of the Lower Emitter – I extended the length by 2mm and lowered it down the corresponding 2mm.  I also decided to add additional indexing marks along the side.  The original design had only 1 and I thought 3 would provide better guidance up the tube. At first, I designed them at equal angles (120 degrees apart), but you needed to be care to insert it into the Lower Emitter at the correct orientation.  So, I offset two of the index marks by 5 degrees.  Now, it will only fit in one way, the correct way.  I also had a printing issue that the Bambu Studio slicer wanted to print it upside down and this would often destroy the top of the Upper Rotator.  So, I split the Upper Rotator into a top section and a rod for the bottom.  I inserted a threaded section on the Rod to screw into the top section.  I could have used a gluing method, but I am not a fan of glue, if I can avoid it. This made printing easier.  The threaded part of the Rod doesn’t need support, and Studio did not recommend it.  However, Studio did want to use support on the inside treads of the top part. This is also not needed, and the support is very hard to remove.  So, in the print profile I tell Studio to not support the inside threads.  I have had no problem (just remember to remove the support inside hole for the Platform rod).  One thing I did add, since the Rod needs to be screwed in the correct amount. I added index marks on both pieces. The treads should just bottom out, but you should screw it in, so the index marks align. Finally, I added a small, rounded lip at the top to raise the teeth.

Finally, the “Connector” connecting the Upper Chamber and the Lower Emitter: With only a single Connector, the Activation Gear could rotate almost 360 degrees making the Upper Rotator go all the way up, and then back down.  I thought a 180-degree capability would be better: it would rotate all the way, stop, and to lower, you would reverse the direction.  I first added a second connector, but I decided to just make a single larger connector. 

This is just a redesign of the top section and the bottom section of CaseStudyno8's Rey light-saber to reduce gluing requirements which will let you change out parts without printing the entire model. You still need the grip.

I had breakage issues with the Emitter teeth as designed, so I redesigned the Emitter, teeth. I then modified the rotator and the connector between the upper chamber and Lower Emitter.

Then to reduce gluing on the bottom section I moved the shaft to the Lower Chamber and added threads to screw into Pommel 4.  You will still need to glue the Lower Chamber to the Grip.