Nextruder Nozzle Repair Jig

I guess it happened to pretty much every Prusa XL owner (maybe also to MK4/S and CoreOne owners) that you accidentally used too much torque to secure your Nextruder nozzle, wich resulted in a slightly squished nozzle.

The nozzle might still work, but now is a lot more prone to clogging / filament getting stuck when too warm, resulting in failed prints or clogged nozzle warnings (if you haven't turned it off already).

Thanks to @INVESTIGATE I came across his blog post here about how to fix your squished nozzle

https://investegate.de/how-to-fix-squished-nextruder-nozzle/

I liked the idea and thought I'd give it a shot (better than replacing 5 Obxidian nozzles @ 60€ a piece), but I wanted to mitigate the risk of damaging something as much as possible, so I made this handy jig.

• you insert the nozzle into the base part, where it's held securely in place without the risk of damaging the nozzle tip
• next you attach the top part (a chamfer on the inside will help guide the tube trough the hole) which will prevent the nozzle from tilting, so it will prevent the tube from bending or even breaking
• then you use a ø2x70mm steel rod and insert it into the endstop
• next insert the rod with the attached endstop into the tube and carefully push down the rod with your finger until you feel resistance
• now use a small hammer and carefully drive the rod in, until it's flush with the endstop
• final step, remove the endstop and the nozzle from the jig and carefully remove the rod with some pliers

The nozzle is now fixed an ready to be installed again. To prevent this from ever happening again, I'd highly recommend printing and using this

https://www.printables.com/model/1251975-torquey-prusa-xl-edition-torque-wrench-for-the-noz

I tested the 0.7 and 0.8mm versions with my calibrated torque wrench and the results were spot on with 0.25 - 0.3Nm for the 0.7mm version and 0.35 - 0.4Nm for the 0.8mm one (I'll be using the 0.7mm version from now on)

The only parts you need to get is a ø2mm stainless steel rod (easily available on Amazon or other sites as it's a popular RC model supply) and cut it at 70mm.

Insert the rod in a cordless drill and use some sandpaper to smooth out any sharp edges on the tip.

The 70mm length is important as in combination with the endstop it will prevent you from inserting the rod too deep, so that something can get damaged!

Also if you ever drop in the rod completely by accident, you'll still have about 5mm of the rod left to grab on (tested with CHT brass and Obxidian / Obxidian HF nozzles).

Tip:

Before using this method to repair your nozzle, do a cold pull to assure there's nothing left inside the nozzle that might block or interfere with the rod.

Import the 3mf file as project and everything is ready to go, only adjust your printer and filament.

Parts printed in  Prusament Pro Green PLA