Python 2 - Ultimate Bambu Lab AMS 2 PRO
Description
PDFNotice!
This is only compatible with the AMS 2 Pro. Please view my other designs for designs supporting other AMS systems, there are plenty.
Buy Python 2
I've teamed up with a few different stores around the world offering the printed parts and everything you need for the build so you won't need anything outside of the kit:
If you're interested in the panels only for the enclosure, you can buy them from LaserFoundry.
Python 2 has a strict non-commercial license, it can only be sold with licensing through Hume Beam Engineering Solutions.
Update October 6, 2025
Long time Hydra and Python Supporter Scott Marcy spotted that Bambu Lab have made a minor hardware adjustment to the AMS 2 Pro and let me know. We've worked together as I only have the older AMS 2 Pro units so he's been measuring and I've been drawing and adjusting and we're now happy. ;)
The changes we've found in the hardware was a small change to the inlet/outlet vents as well as new front rollers. For this design in particular, these are the new files to print:
- python-2-drive-gear-sleeve-updated-design-threaded-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-inlet-outlet-base-print-2pcs-1.00b.3mf
- python-2-inlet-outlet-mount-print-2pcs-1.00b.3mf
The mounts are backwards compatible so they will fit both the old and new inlet/outlet vents. The updated sleeves will only fit the newer hardware, if you're unsure which version you have you can just print both and you'll see which one you have when you get to that part in the assembly step, it's just a very small print.
Thanks Scott!
Discord Support
Please do not send me direct messages here, I have notifications turned off as I get so many requests here and elsewhere so it's possible I miss your message. Instead, please join our Discord server for suggestions and technical support. Thanks!
If you need any help with the build or want to leave feedback you can join us on Discord:
Our server is named “(Unofficial) QIDI Tech 3D Printers” so don't get confused when you join as it was initially setup for that brand of printers but we've expanded it to other brands and 3D printing in general as well as channels for some of my mods, it's where I generally hang out.
Welcome!
Intro
Python 2 is a highly reliable and fully modular AMS system for the Bambu Lab X1/P1, H2D and (soon) A1 series. It can be used with two to 16 spool slots, daisy chaining AMS units is possible, just like stock AMS. The sections are joined with dovetail joints and M3 socket heads. It has a built in wall mount and the spool holders are tilted back so it can just as easily be installed on a wall.
It comes with an optional but recommended enclosure that is either passively dried or with up to four active heaters (integrated Polymaker PolyDryers) that can be used while printing or when it's not in use.
Python 2 supports all standard functions such as heating / drying and full RFID support as well as PTFE tubes replaceable from the top.
It features self-centering Double Helical gears with a high torque thanks to a 135:12 gear ratio (11.25:1) from the small drive gear on each feeder to the enlarged spool gear. It's using the Bambu AMS internals only, no modification or additional parts required apart from bearings and bolts, it's fully reversible.
No longer rely on spool weights or roller grip as the roller system is bypassed. All types of spools are supported. The spool holders can be secured with a M3 socket head against both the spool holder's threaded rod to lock it in place and also against the spool itself but in testing it has never been needed as long as they are fully tightened.
As the spools fully rest on standard 608 bearings on both sides of the spool holder, both the feeders and the AMS hub motor are offloaded, avoiding premature wear or AMS overload errors. Each slot can be used as an external spool holder for example when using abrasive filaments or for multiple printers. Or you can use four modules for a full AMS and use a fifth module on one side reserved for external spools.
Cardboard spools, refills (though a spool around it is still recommended) and various size spools are all compatible including 250 g sample spools and other odd-sized spools. Maximum spool width is around 80 mm with Python.
Python 2? What's the story?
Some of you familiar with the Bambu Lab printers probably recognize me as the developer of Hydra AMS and Hydra PRO as well as the Vision Enclosure for the P1P but perhaps mostly known for the original Python AMS.
Python 2 is quite similar to the original Python AMS and share some printed parts.
The name Python is again inspired by Greek mythology as I have done in the past with some of my other designs such as Hercules, Icarus, Hydra and Chimera. So it's not exactly a snake, more of a dragon-like creature that Apollo fought. :)
With Hydra I did as much as I could to maximize spool compatibility while maintaining high reliability but was limited with the size of the AMS box and the roller system which can be finicky at times and not without issues.
With Python it was time to think outside the box. The trend of more and more cardboard spools as well as refill and odd-size spools on the market I felt it was time to make an ultimate AMS system. Not only to support all kinds of spools but also as an actively heated AMS drybox with a styling matching the Bambu printers. You can also use it without any enclosure if you like or with a passive drybox without heaters (same as stock AMS).
The main changes / improvements over the standard AMS:
- Compatible with all types of spools and sizes, up to around 80 mm wide.
- All spool diameters fit, from tiny sample spools up to 210 mm diameter spools.
- External spool function (bypasses the AMS) possible for all four spool slots.
- Actively heated enclosure with up to four heaters (optional).
- No need for spool weights.
- No need to rely on roller grip or worry about stuck spools.
- High torque self-centering double helical gears.
- Fully supports RFID in all spool slots.
The main Python 2 step files are not available publicly, please don't ask.
Python 2 Enclosure
Python 2 is fully backwards compatible with the original Python Passive and Heated enclosures, making the upgrade path easy and seamless.
Some more holes in the rear panel is required for the inlet and outlet PCBs (for the AMS 2 PRO venting) and also a few extra printed parts are needed as well but these will come in the next few days. But the main printed parts are indeed identical.
If you have an original Python Enclosure and upgrading from Python to Python 2, you can use this conversion kit to upgrade it to a Python 2 Enclosure.
FAQ and Technical Specs
“Does this work like an AMS?”
- Absolutely, it works just like the stock AMS except the spools are sitting in spool holders, driven by double helical gears rather than on top of rollers. This highly increases the reliability and versatility.
“Can I use multiple Python 2?”
- Absolutely, you can daisy chain up to four of them for a 16 spool AMS.
“Can I hot plug an AMS to a printer?”
- Normally this works fine but to be sure please shut down your printer before plugging in Python 2 (or a stock AMS for that matter!), it is much safer for the electronics. It avoids electricity spikes that can potentially happen if there is a poor connection between the AMS bus cable (black cable from printer to AMS) and the AMS power board, which in turn can damage the AMS main board.
- Hot-plugging can actually damage the electronics (AMS main board) so plug everything in before you boot up the printer.
“Do I need a stock AMS?”
- Yes. You use those parts and transfer over to Python 2. All of the parts can be bought individually but it might be cheaper to just get an AMS rather than sourcing the parts individually, I haven't compared the prices.
“How large is Python 2?”
- Due to the individual spool holder system with side placed bearings and also to support wider spools, it's a bit larger than a stock AMS. It's a downside. But we trade size for very high reliability. However, Python is modular so you can use for example three modules only to slim it down. But for a full four spool setup the dimensions are: 439.20 mm (width) x 310.00 mm (depth) x 275.00 mm (height) including spool holders and front feeders (full install). Each module adds or subtracts 106.5 mm from the width.
“Can I place Python AMS on top of the printer?”
- While you can do this it will stick out a bit on each side as it's about 50 mm wider than the printer itself (for X1/P1 printer specs). I recommend placing it next to the printer or wall mounting it.
“Do I need to use an enclosure?”
- It depends on which material you print, how long your prints are and the humidity of where you live. It doesn't have to be a fancy enclosure, you could just stick it in a large airtight container and drill holes for the PTFE tubes and cables, it works just as well. However, filament is always best when dried and the ideal setup is an Actively Heated Enclosure.
“What is the size of the enclosure?”
- The size of the enclosure is 460.0 mm (width) x 390.5 mm (depth) x 293.0 mm (height).
“Does it support RFID tags?”
- Python 2 fully supports the Bambu Lab spool RFID tags.
“Can I use “AMS Savers / Filament Guides" with Python?”
- Absolutely, all AMS Savers and so called Filament Guides are supported.
“Can I get the source design files in step format?”
- The main Python AMS step files are not available publicly. However, some files are available in step format, please view the remix tab.
BOM - Bill of Materials
You can print Python 2 in just about any filament you like but if you intend to use the heaters / dryers I recommend printing it in ABS, ASA or higher.
I recommend placing the AMS next to the printer or wall mounting it.
Around 1.8 Kg of filament is required at the recommended print settings for the full build including four spool holders.
I've printed most of the test builds in Prusament ASA and eSUN ABS, both brands and filament types work great.
Filament
Fasteners
Python 2 is improved compared to the original Python and uses less screws for assembly and it has less sections, meaning a quicker and easier install.
You still need quite a few M3 socket heads. Here is a list of all screw locations and specs:
- Left side panel against left front and rear modules: 3 x M3-8 mm plus 4 x M3-12 mm
- Right side panel against right front and rear modules: 3 x M3-8 mm plus 4 x M3-12 mm
- Front modules against each other and front modules against rear sections: 3 x M3-8 mm plus 2 x M3-20 mm
- Rear modules against each other: 1 x M3-25 mm (for middle rear dovetail)
- Four front roller sleeves: 4 x M3-10 mm
- Four front covers: 4 x M3-10 mm
- Four spool holders: 20 x M3-25 mm (20 mm is also fine)
- Attaching the main PCB tray: 2 x M3-10 mm
- Four adjustable feeder modules: 8 x M3-20 mm
- Two inlet/outlet mounts: 2 x M3-20 mm
To summarize, the following M3 socket heads are needed:
- 9 x M3-8 mm
- 10 x M3-10 mm
- 8 x M3-12 mm
- 12 x M3-20 mm
- 21 x M3-25 mm
If you don't have any at home it's best to grab the kit below, it will have everything you need for this build and more:
Feed Cable Replacements
You need four new cable extensions as the stock cables are so short. The cables for the middle two feeders reach but barely so might as well replace all four.
The good news is there are cheap replacements, just plug and play!
- JST-GH cable 10 pcs (select option “9P, 150 mm, reverse direction”)
- JST-GH cable 10 pcs (Alternative source)
It's important you select the 9-pin version, reverse direction and 150 mm length.
AMS 2 Pro Cable Replacements
Depending on the hardware revision of the AMS 2 Pro you have, you may need a longer internal AMS power cable. It's the cable that comes from the AMS main board to the rear AMS power board. If yours is around 290 mm including the connector you have the longer cable and can skip the kit below.
If you're uncertain, grab this cable kit below, it's very cheap:
Bearings
For the spool holders you also need 8 x 608-ZZ bearings:
You also need 4 x 693-ZZ bearings for the front drive gears sleeves. You could use the bearings that came with your AMS (for the rear rollers, pull them off) but a set of 10 bearings is cheap and you don't need to pull them off, possibly damaging them:
PTFE tubes
You need about 1.5-2 m PTFE tube to cut to length. I recommend the stock Bambu PTFE tube which has an inner diameter of 2.5 mm and an outer diameter of 4.0 mm. Go for the AMS Hub / Custom Cut which is a single piece 4 m tube.
AMS hub cable (1500 mm)
As Python is quite large I recommend using the longer hub cable that comes with the AMS hub, it can be bought individually as well:
Optional
Although not required these PEO/PEI/PEY bed sheets are great, I have most options myself, it gives a quite cool look on the first layer. There are a few shops offering different plates:
The Hex Tools are superb for any 3D printer, I've had a few different ones over the years, these are the ones I use now as they are quite compact with replaceable different hex bits, they're the ones you see in the assembly guide a few pages down:
Tools
I'm using a simple tool for cutting the PTFE tube, you can use a knife as well. I also use a fine file for cleaning up the parts. And if you go for the optional heated inserts, a soldering iron is needed. A short hex key for 2.5 mm is useful as well.
Warranty
Python 2 does not void your warranty but be careful, especially with the AMS main board, use an antistatic wrist band. Although the mod is completely reversible and you can't tell the parts have been installed in Python AMS, I take no responsibility and you're on your own. Be careful and take it slow, read this page twice before you start.
Support
All my designs and mods on Printables are free to use and remix. They have a non-commercial license. If you enjoy this or any of my other designs you can send me a small donation using the link below. Thanks :)
https://www.paypal.me/humebeamengineering
If you prefer Crypto/BTC you can send me a message.
If you send a donation be sure to mention Python AMS in the comments box and you will be added to the list below.
Official Supporters
If you have donated $5 or more you will be added to a list of official supports as a thank you from me and you will also be assigned a serial number, the list will be updated as often as possible.
Read more and get the custom printed parts with your serial number here:
Thanks again!
If you want to remain anonymous, leave a note with your donation. If I've missed your donation let me know.
Before Printing Python 2
Make sure you dial in flow correctly before you start so that you are not overextruding. The problem then is you can't join the dovetail joints and assembly properly.
The Bambu Lab printers usually do a pretty good with automatic flow calibration but it's best to confirm flow anyway, sometimes it is inaccurate. There are ways to do manual flow calibrations directly from Bambu Studio and Orca Slicer so you can use those.
Once you have done that, print these dovetail test joints, more info here:
The test pieces are intended for the original Python AMS but the same dovetails are used in Python 2.
Print Settings
Most parts print without support, expect the “rear” parts. I recommend using 3 walls and an infill of around 15%. Print all parts in the direction I have set them.
There are individual 3mf files posted or you can download one of the full sets.
These can be loaded in Bambu Studio or you can print them directly from Bambu Handy.
Main parts:
- python-2-drive-gear-holder-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-drive-gear-sleeve-threaded-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-drive-gear-sleeve-updated-design-threaded-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-front-cover-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-front-print-2pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-m3-block-threaded-print-19pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-pcb-tray-print-1pc-1.00.3mf
- python-2-rear-left-print-1pc-1.00.3mf
- python-2-rear-right-print-1pc-1.00.3mf
- python-2-inlet-outlet-base-print-2pcs-1.00b.3mf
- python-2-inlet-outlet-mount-print-2pcs-1.00b.3mf
Tip: The drive gear sleeves can be printed in TPU 95-98A (tested by me) for a much more silent operation but normal “hard” filament is fine too but will be louder when it's switching spools.
Sides:
- python-2-left-side-print-1pc-1.00.3mf
- python-2-right-side-print-1pc-1.00.3mf
If you're an official supporter, download your custom left and right sides here:
For these parts the Python logo and text is “hidden” in the first layer. Here you can use the Paint Bucket tool to paint the logo and text:
Spool holders:
- python-2-adaptive-spool-holder-bottom-2mm-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-adaptive-spool-holder-core-standard-45-60mm-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-adaptive-spool-holder-core-xl-60-75mm-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-m3-wafer-head-gear-side-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-m3-wafer-head-top-side-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-spool-gear-135t-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
- python-2-threaded-rod-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
Python 2 uses the new adaptive spool holders, I recommend printing a set of both the standard and XL versions of the spool holder core for full spool compatibility.
If you want to use the “classic” Python spool holders they're in the Optional Prints folder (python-2-spool-holder-bottom-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf and python-2-spool-holder-top-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf)
Use dry filament.
Optional Prints
These prints are optional but recommended to accompany Python 2 AMS:
Assembly Guide
Please view the assembly guide PDF or follow the assembly instructions below.
Assembly Instructions
Remove the Bambu Lab AMS internals from the standard AMS, follow this guide, it's not difficult:
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams-2-pro/maintenance/disassembly-and-assembly
Be sure to mark all cables and connectors before you remove them. I recommend marking each connector on the board and corresponding cable with a thin permanent marker pen as pictured below:
Precaution: Always wear an antistatic wrist band when working with electronics.
Extra steps - RFID coils and humidity sensor removal
A few extra things to mention for the disassembly that the wiki above does not cover as these parts are at this moment not considered replaceable by Bambu Lab but instead part of the AMS 2 PRO main tray.
First off, after removing the feeders, hub motor, heaters and main board as per the wiki guide, flip the AMS tray upside down and you see two wide slots.
Remove RFID coils
The RFID coils are centered in the middle of these slots and secured with foam glue so just carefully cut around the coils with a sharp knife and they will lift straight out.
They're very quick and easy to remove, only watch out so you don't cut the black wire.
After removing the RFID coils, scrape off the extra foam with a fingernail.
Remove Temp / Humidity sensor
Next, remove the temp and humidity sensor. The temp and humidity sensor is a small wedge shaped PCB with the actual sensor near the tip. It reads the temp and humidity in the AMS box and use that information for the heating / drying and venting functions.
Be very careful and never pull on the actual connector as it's just surface soldered to the PCB and quite weak, if it pulls off you need to have a very steady hand to solder it back on as it's so small.
The connector sits in this location of the tray and is secured with glue and sits in a very narrow slot.
Looking a bit closer you will see some glue around the edges of the PCB.
Careful! When removing the PCB, never pull on the actual white plug / connector!
Instead, first score around the edge using a knife to remove most of the glue then pull straight out with pliers, you can wiggle it a little side to side while pulling straight up.
Don't worry about scraping the edges of the PCB, it will not damage the board.
Assembly Instructions - Continued
You should also remove the small rear PCB from the AMS box, it sits with three small black screws and has a rubber seal behind it. Take the board, seal and the screws, they're needed for the Python build.
First unplug the cables for the inlet and outlet PCBs. Leave those in the original AMS box, they're not used unless you use the Python 2 enclosure.
If you use the Python 2 enclosure, remove those as well, they sit with two small screws and with an o-ring for sealing.
Remove top right screw:
Remove bottom right screw:
Remove bottom left screw:
You should now have all parts as pictured below:
The first step is to remove the rubber sleeve from the passive side of the front rollers, meaning the side without the gear. Do this for all four front rollers.
It's very easy. Just insert a thin pin between the rubber and the plastic casing and rotate the pin all around it. I'm using my 1.5 mm hex tool, it takes less than 30 seconds to do one. Save the rubber sleeves in case you revert to stock later.
Now there are two different hardware versions of the front rollers and rubber sleeves, identify yours below:
Pic source: Scott Marcy
If yours look like the one on the left of the pic just above, you have the newer version and if so use this sleeve:
- python-2-drive-gear-sleeve-updated-design-threaded-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
If it looks like the one on the right with smaller teeth you have the older version and you should use this sleeve:
- python-2-drive-gear-sleeve-threaded-print-4pcs-1.00.3mf
The instructions below are identical for both versions.
Front Rollers
Continuing with the front rollers, grab the front roller sleeves and install it by pushing it fully in. It's a good idea to hold the plastic casing so it doesn't slide off the steel shaft as it's just pressed on.
Pictured here is my roller sleeve printed in Prusament ASA but it's a good idea to print them in TPU as Python will run much more silent than hard filament.
You shouldn't need to use any glue but if you want to, use silicon glue that's non-permanent.
Take a 10 mm M3 socket head and a small 693-ZZ bearing and screw these to the front roller sleeve:
Screw it in fully then back off a quarter of a turn so it spins freely.
For the heated inserts version it uses a heated insert here instead.
Now you should have a set of four front rollers and the Python drive gear sleeves installed.
AMS Main Board
The next step is to insert the main AMS board into the holder (python-2-pcb-tray-print-1pc-1.00.3mf). Take notice of the board direction, the connectors should face up towards the small cutout in the tray as pictured.
Align it and tighten with the two stock silver screws, if you can see through the hole you have the alignment correct.
Turn the PCB tray around and slide in the small temperature and humidity sensor, it sits on a small wedge shaped PCB, you removed it from the stock AMS tray in earlier in the guide.
Press it fully to the top and it should sit pretty firmly, it's friction fit. Then guide through the cable through the slot.
And finally connect it to the connector just below on the other side.
Rear Modules
Up next is preparing the rear modules and installing the power board and AMS filament hub / internal hub motor.
First plug in both cables:
And install it with the two small stock screws with the rubber seal inbetween (this is mostly so you don't loose it).
Take notice of the board direction, the cable connectors should face the “roof” of the printed part and with the two small white sockets facing down.
It attaches using just two screws:
Next, slide the two rear parts together and fasten it with a 25 mm M3 socket head, don't overtighten this screw, it's just to hold the two parts together.
Next, mount the motor / AMS filaments hub motor. Install it using the three stock screws.
It should now look like this:
Feeders
Start by removing the four PTFE tubes, they're too short for Python 2 and we replace them later with longer ones.
Also, remove the four feeder cables and plug in the new ones. The reason is they're also too short so new cables are required. Technically, the middle two feeder wires barely reach but you might as well just replace all four, they come in a kit of 10 wires and are very cheap.
Just press down on the tab in the middle and pull straight out and then plug in the new cable:
The replacement cables are about twice as long.
Front Modules
Start by sliding the two sets of front modules together, they use dual dovetails.
Grab the four roller blocks. The front roller with the drive gear attaches using the drive gear holder and a replaceable threaded block as pictured.
For the heated inserts version it uses heated inserts here instead.
Press in the feeder blocks in the cutout, take notice of the direction as it follows the curvature of the front module. If you happen have them upside down or backwards it doesn't matter for functionality.
Now the front modules should look like this:
Installing the feeders in the Front Modules
Install the feeders and ensure the rear locking tab of the feeder goes below the circled cutout.
The feeders must be installed by inserting it into this tab then folded down towards the rear where it is locked in place using two black small screws.
Now looking at it from “behind”, make sure that the round screw “columns” of the feeder goes in the holes, circled in the red below. It should sit fully flat like pictured.
Now install with the two stock black screws:
Fully tighten but do dot overtighten each screw so make sure you don't strip the plastic of the feeder. A good rule of thumb is to tighten it with just two fingers (thumb + index finger).
Ensure the feeders are fixed in place and do not wiggle.
Install the RFID Coils
Install the RFID coils. They are friction fit. Unlike the original AMS, all the electronics for reading the spool RFID tags are now located on the main AMS board and it now uses bare RFID coils instead, I like!
First guide through the connector in the wider slot and pull it carefully on the other side then press down the rear of the coil to lock it. The cable part of the coil should face the rear.
Front Rollers
Don't forget the industrial strength coffee!
Next up is installing the front rollers with the drive gear sleeves.
Install the adjustable drive gear holder using two M3-20 mm socket heads for each. Don't tighten yet.
Slide in the roller with the drive gear sleeve and guide it into the drive gear holder.
Press the drive gear holder moderately and tighten the screws at the same time.
You can of course speed up the assembly by using a power tool but if you do, ensure the lowest torque setting is used so you don't strip any material.
The rollers should rotate very easily with very low friction, ensure the roller does not move laterally (side to side), it's important for correct gear meshing.
After all rollers are in place, confirm the gears line up perfectly (yellow gear in feeder and black gear on roller).
Join the two Front Module sections using three M3-8 mm socket heads and the M3 threaded blocks. The blocks are replaceable in case you happen to strip one. If you use heated inserts, use the heated insert blocks here instead.
There are two screw locations in the middle top spool holder column. Here it's a good idea to use a short hex key handle as pictured.
Just place the block on the other side and hold it pressed in while screwing in the socket head:
There is also one screw location in the middle bottom front between the two sections:
AMS main board
Slide the board in, the connectors should face up and the board should face the rear. It attaches in the middle between the two front modules sections:
Attach using two M3-10 mm socket heads, ensure you don't bump the protruding capacitors on the board and also make sure the wire from the humidity sensor on the rear is tucked away in the slot:
Connecting Wires from Front Modules
Guide through the RFID coil cable in the middle and connect it here, leftmost position on the board:
Do the same for the RFID coil cable on the other side:
Connect Feeder 4 here:
Feeder 3:
Feeder 2:
And finally the Feeder 1 here:
Joining Front and Rear sections
Place the rear section behind and join the sections by carefully pressing down the fronts over the rears.
Flip it upside down and join the sections with one M3-20 mm socket head and a block.
Good idea to use a short hex key here.
There are actually two screw locations here but the one closest to the roof of the rear section is a bit difficult to reach and to be honest you don't really need it so I just recommend skipping it unless you want to spend five minutes with a single screw. :)
More Cables
Guide through the cables from the AMS power board. Use the larger openings near the top of the Front Modules (the lower ones are for the PTFE tubes, we'll get to that in a short bit).
It doesn't really matter how you route the cables as long as they reach but here's the recommended paths.
Guide through the black power cable here:
And the flat wide communication cable here in the cutout next to it:
Guide through all three cables from the Filament Hub / Motor here:
Connect the black power cable from the power board in the angled black connector on the board. It's a bit difficult to see here as the pic is dark but it can only be connected in one spot.
Connect the wide communication cable from the power board here.
Now it's time to connect the cables from the Filament Hub / Motor.
The main cable installs here, it's the widest cable from the hub:
The medium width cable from the Filament Hub / Motor goes here, it's for its filament sensor:
Connect the narrow cable from the Filament Hub, it's for the odometer.
Installing the sides
Slide on the left side and install it using 3 x M3-8 mm and 4 x M3-12 mm socket heads and plugs.
First install three M3-8 mm socket heads plus blocks for the top of the spool holder and the lower left, in these locations:
Next, do the other four locations but using M3-12 mm socket heads and blocks instead:
Do the same for the other side:
Three M3-8 mm socket heads for the spool holder column and front lower right location.
Unlike the left and side, for the right hand side some screws go from the inside out and some from outside in. Short hex key is helpful:
Use four M3-12 mm for the rest of the screw locations on the right side, going from the outside in.
Your assembly should now look like this. The next step is to install the heaters / dryers.
Heaters / Dryers
Start with the left heater and guide through all three cables in this cutout:
Make sure the heater goes below the long tab in the rear, it's used to press the heater unit in place.
Install using two stock small screws:
Press down on the heater and towards the rear / tab while installing it to ensure it sits flat.
First screw goes here in the middle:
And the second here near the top:
Make sure you fully tighten the screws but do not overtighten them. Installed correctly the heater should sit flush with the printed part:
Do the same for the right heater. Guide cables through:
Ensure the rear of the heater sits below the tab and that the cables are out of the way (below the heater, that is).
Middle screw:
Top screw:
Again, heater should sit flush:
Connecting Heater Cables
Now this part is a bit tricky because there is not a lot of space, at least not for my big hands.
Make sure you identify the plug and connector direction before you connect them, it will make it easier.
Connect Right heating unit, fan cable. The black wire is facing down, towards you in this picture.
Next to it, plug in the Right heating unit, NTC cable. It's the small 2 wire cable. The retention clip of the cable is facing out (left in this picture).
Then connect the power cable from the heater here:
Next do the left heater.
Connect Left heating unit, NTC cable. Again, the retention clip facing out (right in this pic).
Connect Left heating unit, fan cable. The white wire is facing down.
Connect Left heating unit, heater cable here:
All cables are now connected.
If you're unsure of how any of the cables were connected if if you want to confirm anything, please view the photos below.
I have arranged the photo the same way as the board is installed in Python 2, if you look at it from the rear that is:
Picture Source: Bambu Lab Wiki (modified)
PCB Covers
The PCB covers are important to keep the cables out of the way of the spools and also to maximize the drying capacity of the heaters. There are actually two screw locations for each cover but you normally would only have to use the center one as shown in this guide.
Tuck the wires away and press down the cover.
Install using a M3-10 mm socket head.
Be especially careful with the middle covers as more cables are connected below here and make sure all cables are tucked away before tightening the screws.
PTFE tubes
Nearly there! Just the PTFE tubes left to do. Your Python 2 should now look like this:
You need about 1.5-2 m PTFE tube to cut to length. I recommend the stock Bambu PTFE tube which has an inner diameter of 2.5 mm and an outer diameter of 4.0 mm. Go for the AMS Hub / Custom Cut which is a single piece 4 m tube.
Start by connecting the tube for the feeder then guide it through one of the slots. There's a suggested PTFE path imprinted on the rear parts but use whatever path you feel gives the least amount of bends and restriction for the filament.
A good rule of thumb is to stretch the PTFE fully all the way to the connector on the Filament Hub / Motor and then cut it right above the connector.
Do the same for the rest of the tubes. Here are a couple of suggested PTFE routes.
External Spool Function - Connecting Tubes
The external spool function is a pretty cool feature of Python 2. It allows for bypassing the AMS internals completely and using Python as an external spool holder.
The external spool function is available on all four spool slots, I'm just showing it for one of the spool slots below.
It is useful for abrasive filaments for example such as CF or GF infused or Glow in the dark filaments or for printing TPU, none of which are suitable or in some cases not possible at all using the AMS.
First, slide the tube through the hole in the rear cutout.
Next, guide it through the middle hole of the front module and have it stick up a bit.
Finally, slide it through the hole in the front cover. That way you can either use the AMS normally by loading it in the front hole or to bypass the AMS by using the rear hole.
It's a bit more difficult to guide in the filament of course but very useful for abrasives like mentioned.
Removing the inlet/outlet vents from the AMS 2 PRO Box
Next, unscrew the vents. The one in the rear left sits with a 1.5 mm hex screws and the one in the front right sits with 2.0 mm hex screws.
Finally remove the tape holding the cables and lift out the vents including cables.
Installing the inlet/outlet vents (Using the Python 2 Enclosure)
For installing the vents in the Python 2 Enclosure, please follow the guide here:
Installing the inlet/outlet vents (without an enclosure)
To take full advantage of Python 2, I recommend using the Python 2 Enclosure as it offers heating, drying and humidity control but it can of course be used without an enclosure.
However, in this case, in order to keep the AMS happy and not complain about disconnected vents these should be internally mounted inside Python 2.
Place the vent in the holder, it can only be installed one way.
Next, press it in place in the holder (it's just a press fit) and screw it to the rear middle dovetail of Python 2, use a M3-20 mm socket head and M3 block.
Do the same for the other vent and install it on the other rear middle dovetail, route the cables like this (through the slots, of course) and connect them to the AMS power board:
Assembly Complete - Some Final Things
All done!
- Make sure there is not too much tension on the rollers / drive gear sleeves, they should spin with very low rolling resistance. If not, adjust the drive gear holders. Too much friction can cause issues when the AMS is retracting the spool.
- Make sure you center and fully tighten the spool holders before printing. The spool holders do a pretty good job of auto centering the spools when tightening but it's a thing to keep in mind.
- When loading the spools, ensure you align the spool holder on top of the front roller sleeve. The roller sleeve is extra wide to allow for easy loading. But before you start a print, ensure the gears mesh and so it doesn't run outside it.
- Also when using small small spools, use a thicker spool holder bottom so it lines up with the middle of the feeder.
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