MXR M108S Back Plate / Base Plate

Recommended settings…

• Print with the flat side down, use supports in the flat screw areas (the corner screws), it's not necessary to use support on the inner screws. 
• 3-5 outlines/perimeters
• 5 top + 5 bottom solid layers 
• 20-30% infill (I don't think it uses much due to thickness, you could probably do all solid layers)
• I did in this in FlashForge PLA, could prob do PETG too. Use whatever you like. 
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Created a base plate for a Dunlop MXR M108S 10 Band EQ. No one seems to have created one so I made it in Rhino 3d. It is a tiny bit thicker than the original metal base plate, but this was necessary because it seemed to flex a bit when screwed in. All the screws are countersunk a lot better than the original metal plate as well with the added bottom thickness. I sanded the bottom of mine (you can see in the main image), hoping the Velcro will stick well when I put it on. 

It probably doesn't matter much, but I recommend screwing the corners in with an X pattern one at a time, and to alternate between the 2 central screws. I felt that the screws were a tiny bit tight going in (probably from the super minute differences in hole placements). This is actually my 2nd version of the base plate and it is immensely improved. I measured the centers of all the holes with digital calipers this time, and the fit seems spot on.