DIY 40 Channel LED Bar for ESP32 controllers

DIY LED Bars that can be controlled via ArtNet/e1.31 for small bands that look for cheap lighting elements. The bars I show you here get both power and signals from a single XLR cable each. However, that means you need a distributing unit that gives them both power and signal. I will list the parts needed for this unit as well. If you are looking for software to control them with, I'd highly recommend QLC+ (https://www.qlcplus.org/).

Those are the three main 3D printed files, as well as a list of parts you will need to create a unit that can control up to 8 individual 40 channel LED bars.

Parts

A) LED Strips and profiles

• 24V COB LEDs WS2811 (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0D4YB3BHG)
• LED Profile (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07KZZVYCN)
• (optional) LED Connectors (https://www.amazon.de/PAUTIX-Steckverbinder-l%C3%B6tfreier-Anschlusssatz-l%C3%BCckenloser/dp/B0C5XRSVR2)

Use 24V COB LEDs for the LED bars. 24V guarantees you, that you can use up to 10 meter cables while keeping a voltage drop <10%. COB LEDs allow you to have multi-colored bars, while keeping the number of channels reasonable.

B) Bars, plugs and other parts

• Acrylic tubes (50mm outer, 44mm inner diameter, 1m long) (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B009ZVDGGK)
• Neutrik XLR Plug (Male) (https://www.thomann.de/de/neutrik_nc_3mdl1.htm)
• Neutrik MFD plate (https://www.thomann.de/de/neutrik_mfd.htm)
• Screw thread (https://www.thomann.de/de/km_217_reduziergewinde.htm)
• M3 nuts [square] (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07D28BQ2B)
• M3 screws (https://www.thomann.de/de/thon_linsenschraube_m3x10_schwarz.htm)

C) Controller and electricity

• Brainboard (https://quinled.info/quinled-dig-octa-brainboard-32-8l/)
• Powerboard (https://quinled.info/quinled-dig-octa-power-7/)
• Power Supply 24V 320W (https://www.conrad.de/de/p/tracopower-txln-320-124-ac-dc-netzteilbaustein-geschlossen-13-4-a-320-w-24-v-dc-1-st-2475549.html)
• Neutrik Plug (Female) (https://www.thomann.de/de/neutrik_nc3_fd_lx.htm)
• .22AWG cables, zip ties, solder and soldering iron, as well as a lot of patience
• (optional) Empty rack unit (https://www.thomann.de/de/adam_hall_87408v_leergehaeuse_2he.htm)

You need to control your LED lights somehow. For that, I choose the DigOcta Brainboard, which allows you to control up to 8 LED bars simultaneously and separate from each other. Each bar will have 2m of LEDs in there, drawing ~30W, so be sure your power unit can handle it (8x30W=240W, with a bit of room to spare). I installed the controller in an empty rack unit and fit everything in there (see image 4). 

D) Stands

• Base Foot (https://www.thomann.de/de/roadworx_table_base.htm)
• Stand (https://www.thomann.de/de/km_20004.htm)

In theory you can fasten the LED bars to any microphone stand of your choosing, as the screw thread fits any standard 3/8 screw. However I use a combination of those bases and pipes to also be able to put the LED bars at different heights.

Assembly (Bars)

1. Print one top and one cap for each bar, as well as 3 inner fixtures.
2. Put the square M3s into the inner fixtures, and screw the inner fixtures to the LED profiles. My recommendation would be two have one fixture in the middle, and two ~10cm removed from the end of the profiles. You screw on two profiles (for two LED strips) per three fixtures. They should fit  quite well I hope.
3. Put 1m of LED strip in each profile and put the connectors on, or solder your wires to the LED contact points
4. Solder the wires to the XLR plug (remember to put on the MFD plate first!). I'd recommend 1) - 2) + 3) Signal. It doesn't matter, just remember where everything goes, because you need to solder the same way at the brain later. Solder the two LED bars parallel to each other (see the last picture)
5. Put Neutrik plug into the LED bottom and screw in.
6. Put assembled profiles into Acrylic tube. Drill holes where the inner fixtures need to be screwed to and screw them in.
7. Put on the top. Both top and bottom were printed with some leeway, because the acrylic bars come with some tolerance on them. If they fit too loose, put a strip of painters tape on the end of the acrylic, that should tighten it
8. Screw in the screw thread, so you can fasten the LED bars to any mic stand of your choosing. Put some superglue on the inner threads for stability.

Assembly (Brain+Power)

1. (optional) If you are using the rack housing, you need to cut out space for 8x Neutrik plugs. Do this using any commercially available 24mm Forstner Bit or another tool of your choosing.
2. Assemble neutrik plugs, screw them into the rack and solder .22AWG wires to them.
3. Assemble brain and power board.
4. Run the wires to the brain board. Keep the same order as for the LEDs. (e.g. 1) - 2) + 3) Signal)
5. Connect to the power supply

Operation

• Turn on your brain unit and configure the type of LED it is supposed to control (WS2811) and the order of the LEDs (RGBW or RBGW or GBRW, read the manual on your LEDs)
• Set up a maximum power each bar is allowed to draw (<1A)
• Connect the tube via a standard XLR cable to your brain unit. It should turn a solid color if you have done everything correctly.
• Enjoy.
• (optional) connect your board to a router for easier connection to it.
• (optional) you can set up control via either ArtNet or e1.31 with QLC+. Simply set the IP adress of the Brainboard as output and connect it.

Have fun :)