Goldfish fursuit head base

For the advancement of fursuit science, here are my files for the goldfish with three-part moving jaw.

Files are offered as-is. Only thing I've edited after completing my head was shortening the backshell - the inch of extra space I ended up with was overkill. Print at 100% scale for a 23.5" head, but be sure and run a test piece or two first. Turn thin walls on, as the print gets thin around the magnets.

Supplies required: for basic assembly: #6 screws, 3/4” and 1.5” 
#6 washers and self-locking nuts 
1/4”x1” (minimum) nylon spacers 
Gap-filling superglue
Piano wire, user’s choice of gauge 
Optional, but recommended: 
dab of white lithium grease 
If using detachable eyes: 9x9x7 neodymium magnets x16 
10mm disk magnets for removable eyebrows (to be modeled at a later date) 
If using removable spar for dorsal fin: 
Fuel micro-tubing
1/8” ID 1.5mm carbon fiber rod 
2x 7x4mm w/ 2mm hole neodymium ring magnets

It is recommended to make the back of the head out of TPU if possible to give the head an area it can flex, for comfort and durability. 

Use the nylon spacers as the hinge pins for the main jaw piece. It is possible to use bolts, but in my experience, the spacers don't squeak.

The lower lip will not fit the screw needed for the sliding joint if printed whole, so the joint will need to be loosely assembled around the matching tab on the “jaw” piece, and then glued into the square cutout in the lower lip. The flanges face outwards. Print the “lower lip bracket” pieces horizontally with the sliding surface on the build plate for optimal smoothness, and make a duplicate mirrored. This joint may want a little grease for smooth operation. Place washers on the outside of the brackets, and one washer should fit on the inside with the tab on the main jaw. 

Keep the screw hole in the main jaw snug to minimize play in the joint, but don’t tighten the screw too tight against the lower lip, or the sliding joint will bind. That joint is what lets the lower lip pivot on its fulcrum without fighting the main jaw, so it should be snappy enough you can lip-sync with it before you move to furring. Once you have the sliding joint working to your satisfaction, use the screws to mount that assembly to the skull in the front, and the nylon spacers for mounting in the back. 

Don’t hesitate to sand or file around rotation joints. There are several moving pieces, and friction is the enemy. Use washers as necessary to keep all the joints straight and centered.

The piano wire pushrod for the upper lip works best if it leaves the basket-handle rod on the lower lip from the underside, rather than the top (aka, wrap the wire clockwise, if the head is facing to your left). It will then connect to the outermost hole in the upper lip. Leaving from the top (wrapped around the rod counterclockwise), it provides too much throw for the upper lip and will flex the pushrod when you open your mouth all the way. If you've ever put an RC plane together, you know how to bend a pushrod for this.

Use stainless steel hardware to avoid rust problems when washing the suit. Stitching holes have been provided for sewing the dorsal fin and elastic directly to the print for maximum security. 

File down the front edge of the bottom lip to prevent interference with the top lip once both are furred.

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