Star Trek Next Generation Tricorder - TR-580 v1 (arduino)

2024.01.17 - Adafruit has a replacement for the main arduino board now. No code changes will be required, as the only change is to the accelerometer.  The github code doesn't use the accelerometer or gyroscope for anything.

2022.08.10 - Added screenshot for recommended print orientation of major parts.

This project is intended for people with a good amount of experience in assembling custom electronics.  This is not recommended as a first step into soldering & wiring.  The list of parts can cost a decent amount when added up, so please be sure of your comfort level before starting to assemble your own.

This model is just a shell, as this is meant to hold electronics for working lights, buttons, sensors. All pictures with 2 tricorders side by side are this project vs the 90s playmates toy.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND PRINTING MAJOR PARTS WITH TEST FILAMENT FOR BASIC FITTING FIRST.  All part models use 0.2mm margins at part fit edges, so these gaps may be visible on assembled build.

Demo internals video will show this uses an adafruit bluefruit sense board, a 2.0" screen, some buttons, some LEDs, and a thermal camera from pimoroni.  You'll need to be comfortable with a soldering iron to build this, and you'll probably want to be comfortable with making your own female dupont wires.  Custom circuit boards will make assembly easier and add lights to the buttons, but they are not required.  Custom board designs that can be used to order from oshpark or jlcpcb are on the github.  The usb-c breakout board should be snapped along its line of holes, so it can sit on top of the main sensor board under the shell hat. The button board and usb-c breakout boards are meant to be pre-assembled for lights / buttons / female plug - for this reason I recommend using SMT service from jlcpcb.com.  You WILL NOT be able to hand solder the usb-c female plug to its breakout or the neopixels to the geo / met / bio button board.

All Glass models should be printed with clear filament. I used Sainsmart clear TPU with maximum layer height, 100% infill concentric pattern.  You want to orient all glass parts so that you are looking through layer lines.

Any "glass" section with 2 pegs sticking out of it is meant to have a neopixel breakout mounted there.  If you are not using the custom board with extra lights, you need to wire the neopixel pin from the board to PWR LED->ID LED->EMRG LED, in that order.  With the custom board, it'll be PWR LED->Button LED IN->ID LED->EMRG LED.  Try to take note of the direction of the neopixel breakouts in the door.

Door shell top is the hardest part to print. Cleanest look is with as many parts as possible using layer lines all running in the same direction when the shell is assembled.  The hinge does take a bit of effort to pop into place, but you should only have to do that once.  I have only assembled this using FDM-printed parts, so I can't speak to the behavior of resin.

Light pipes were printed in TPU, and were cut to be flush to the top curve of the hat after they were fit into those slots.  Glue these into place after you test fit them with the board laid on the mounting points from the body shell.  After gluing, cut them flush. I cut the light pipes so the concentric pattern was removed - this left the used section with all print lines in the same direction, and worked really well for me on those lights.

You will likely want to make changes to the signature sticker that goes on the bottom right corner of the door. Customize it to your needs!

All custom PCB files are on github, and custom board(s) can be ordered via EasyEDA or OSHPark. I used EasyEDA because they did the soldering of the small neopixels, buttons, and usb-c breakout for me.

Code for the sense board is also on github:
https://github.com/lambtor/ArduinoTricorder

Hardware used, shown in one of the reference pictures:

• NRF52840 bluefruit sense board
• Adafruit 2.0" 320x240 LCD
• 1/4 sized breadboard PCB OR custom PCB for buttons
• Adafruit sequin LED, Green x4
• Neopixel x3
• Silicon push buttons 6mm * 3 if using breadboard for GEO / MET / BIO buttons
• Main power switch
• Small sound speaker
• Adafruit Audio Board with amp, 2MB
• 16mm x 3mm 10k Potentiometer
• qi Charging receiver (smallest size possible, want 5V 1A if you can find it. this is optional, and no longer recommended - you're probably better off with a USB-C breakout PCB for battery recharge and reprogram of board. I never got qi charging to work well enough to be realistically usable)  + Micro USB-B female breakout
• OR usb - c female pcb breakout and micro usb male adapter
• Pimoroni Thermal Camera module
• m2.5 hex standoffs, 5mm length *6
• m2.5 hex standoffs, 6mm length *4
• m2.5 screws, 10mm or 12mm length *6 (body)
• m2.5 screws, 25mm length *2 (door)
• 26 or 28 AWG wire - SILICONE stranded
• 3.7v battery - Size is your choice. 1200mah will last at least a full day even if door is left open on the home screen. Smaller will not last as long, but will make final assembly much easier.
• Dupont connector kit and crimping tool
• Electrical Tape
• Soldering Iron & Solder
• Male breadboard headers, right angled. Both types are needed. Adafruit version has plastic after the pin angle for the button board. Standard Dupont is needed for the sequin and Neopixel LEDs.  Assembly instructions will show that you can remove the angled pins and re-insert after re-orienting them if you only get one type
• Unconfirmed: small piece of 100 grit sandpaper