Filament Feeder For Dry/Cereal Box

Objective:

To be able to print directly from an enclosed cereal box without needing to open it to remove the spool.
To be able to unload and close the dry box without needing to open it.
To not have the feeder pop out if the filament gets a little tight and pulls on it.
To be able to use PC4M6 (blue) or MC4M10 (black) fittings.
To be stack-able.

Description:

I have all my open filaments stored in cereal boxes from amazon : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Container-Wildone-Containers-Airtight-Leak-Proof/dp/B089YPCYZG although any roughly 4 litre container of 240mm x 240mm x 100mm will do so long as the opening is 60mm, and I use the excellent drybox roller and desiccant system from ManuZiloop on Makerworld : https://makerworld.com/en/models/1194848-dry-box-cereal-box-with-silica-gel-and-hygrometer to complete the setup.

I was transferring the spools to my Prusa XL as i needed them but this involved opening the container and removing them and then putting them back afterwards.  I was aware that there are enclosures for the spool holders but it didn't make sense to remove them and put them in new printer spool holders and then put them back when finished.  All the opening and closing used up the desiccant pretty quickly.

That's when I saw an opportunity to print directly from the box.  Simply remove the sealing flap from the cereal box and slip the bottom part of the feeder in the hole from underneath.  Screw on the cap to make it secure and then screw in your choice of fitting either the blue PC4M6 or the black PC4M10.  Don't over tighten or you may crack the base.

Place the spool into the container with the filament end facing the front of the box and pointing directly upwards.  Insert through the hole in the bottom of the feeder and then close and seal the container with the lid.  Place the filament end into the pin and push the pin into the fitting.  To remove - press down on the ring of the fitting and pull the pin which will pull the filament with it.

The cap is designed so that you can store the pin in the cap while in use so it doesn't get lost and the top of the feeder does not protrude from the surface so that the boxes are still stack-able.

Printing Notes:

No supports are needed.
Can be printed in PLA but I suggest Pet-g or above.
If the threads are a little tight or loose try adding or subtracting a small amount to your slicers XY Hole compensation.
Don't worry about the floating cantilever message it is just complaining about the thread on the nut - it prints just fine.

As always, any comments or suggestions are welcome.