3-port 90W USB-C and USB-A powerbank using DeWalt 18/20V battery, includes On/Off button and cover for ports

This remix builds on JankieL's adapter to create a compact 90W 3-port USB powerback from a DeWalt battery.  All the wires are kept internal.  I've included JankieL's top part in the list of files, along with the modified bottom part and the new cover for the product below:

I bought this: 2 Pack 90W 12 Volt USB Outlet Panel Wall Mount Ouffun Dual 36W PD & QC3.0 18W Car USB Port Charger Socket with Dual 65W USB C Cable for Car Bus RV Truck for about US$17. ($8.50 each)  Don't be fooled by the title, it can take any input from 12 to 24V.  It's got lots of good reviews too.

Also bought some #4x1/2" wood screws (instead of M3x15mm Jankiel asks for) and 4.8mm male spade crimp terminal connectors.   That and PLA are all it takes.

Printing everything using 0.20mm structural in PLA on my stock Core ONE took 90 minutes. 
Assembly takes less than 30 minutes:  First, here's everything you need:

From top left: 2 4.8mm male spade lugs, the new back cover for the USB circuit, three #4x1/2" (or M3x15mm) wood screws, the printed top of the adapter from JanieL, the printed modified bottom of the adapter, and the USB Outlet Panel. 

First, unscrew the four screws on the back of the USB Outlet panel, shown below.  Be sure not to lose the screws!

Then take apart the USB Outlet panel:

Now, push the inner box that held the circuit board out of it's frame.  It's tight so try not to let it get skewed as you push it out.  It's the top-right part below:

Push the inner box into the printed modified bottom of the adapter. Again, it's a tight fit, so try to keep it from getting skewed as you push it in. Push it all the way down: the back edge of the inner box should be a couple of millimeter below the bottom edge of the hole it is in:

Put the circuit board back in the inner box and route it's power leads into the hexagonal tunnels in the bottom of the adapter and then up through the opening at the end of those tunnels.  I use a really fine pair of needle noses to grab the ends of the wires, but a curved dental pick or the like might work too.  Pre-curving the wire may help:

Now trim the wires.  Leave enough excess to allow you to work with them in the next step, there's space inside the inner box to store the excess wire later:

Now crimp on the male spade lugs.  I also soldered them after crimping them but if you crimp well enough that may not be necessary:

Position the lugs in their slots as shown below and push+pull the wires back into the inner box, then fold the wires into the slot at the top of the inner box.  Unlike the photo, keep the wires inside the area indicated by green box, otherwise the wires may get pinched down onto the circuit board which can cause problems - you can probably guess how I know that! The red crosses indicate out-of-bounds wire:

The next photo shows the new cover for the inner box, upside down compared to how it will mount, so you can see the ridges that will pinch the wires if the wires are out of bounds and the notch at the top of the  cover that the wires have to pass thru:

Place the new cover on the inner box with the ridges down and the notch at the top, it's tight so try to keep it aligned as you push it all the way down in the bottom of the adapter.  Then use the original screws to secure it.  I put some small “dimples” where the screws will go into the bottom adapter to help the screws get started, but if need by you can use these dimples as guides to drill a very small starter hole (i.e. 1.5mm or 1/16").  Sometimes I needed to drill; other times the screw was sharp enough to bite into the plastic on its own:

 The cover of the inner box should be flush or slightly below the surface of the adapter shown immediately below it in the picture. Please excuse the print defects: I tried using the stock Core ONE smooth PEI build plate instead of the satin PEI one I usually use, and the first layer adhesion was imperfect. 

Almost done!  Just take the top part of the adapter, place it on the bottom so that the lugs are in the slots of both the top and the bottom, and screw it down with three screws.  Note that two of the screw holes are not used, because they aligned too closely to the screws that hold the inner box:

All done!

I carved out a cavity in the bottom part of the original to fit the 90W USB power circuit designed to run on 12-24V.  Also added routing for power leads of USB power circuit, then filled in some holes that were no longer needed.