WordClock 14x14 Classic - 2025

WordClock 14x14 Classic - 2025. Retro version of my WordClock 2022. 

Available in English, German and East German language in 3 different fonts and a new case.

Solder free installation with lots of new features. =)

Hope you like this new variant! =)

Integrated web configuration interface:

This WordClock can be used in "Online Mode" with WiFi usage or in "Offline Mode" without the need of a local WiFi. In both modes you will be able to use an internal configuration portal to configure your WordClock. See pictures below of the Online Mode:

Setup the code for the WordClock and WiFi setup:

• Use the the new script to flash the ESP32 without the need of the Arduino IDE to flash the ESP32. Use option “6” to flash the “WordClock 14x14 Classic” code to your ESP32.
• See the FAQ section too for more details to the code software.
• Follow this video to see how it works:

Update the code of a running WordClock:

• Updates can be done “Over The Air” / “OTA” with the internal WordClock web portal.
• You will find a section to get the update without the need of a computer with 2 clicks.

Parts needed:

• 1x 16x16 LED matrix (Use this one. The case is made to fit to it only!)
• 1x NodeMCU ESP32 USB-C (Use this one. The case is made to fit to it only!)
• 1x USB power supply 5V / 3A or e.g. the USB-A port from this one (No direct USB-C!)
• 1x USB-A to USB-C cable (5V, 3A) (No direct USB-C!) 
• 1x USB-C port (5V, 3A)
• 3x Wago 221-413 - 3 wire clamps
• 3x Jumper Wire 40x 20cm, Male-Female
• 3x M3x16 screws
• 4x M3x8 screws

Tools needed:

• 1x FDM 3D printer and PLA filament in black and white 
• 1x Wire stripper
• 1x M3 allen key
• 1x side cutters (to cut the cable ties and cables cleaner)
• 4x cable ties
• 1x soldering iron set (if you want to solder)
• 1x 3rd hand (if you want to solder)

Wiring: 

• Connecting the parts for this WordClock is as easy as possible.
• You may need to solder or connect solder free 3 connections only to the ESP32.
• The small holders in the lid can be used for a small cable ties to secure the cables.
• Have a look into the pictures how to arrange the LED matrix in the front part to ensure that the direction of the LEDs is correct.
• In case you want to solder, the only change compared to the solder free variant would be to solder the 3 wires to the ESP instead of using the named plugged cables. Details will not be described here due the connections are the same as for the solder free variant. The Wago clamps would be used in this case too, because they are really handy to use…
• Please check the table which pins are connected for the project as well as the pictures:

Here is a step by step guide how to connect all the cables:

• With the help of the following pictures you will see how to wire the device, easy as 1,2,3:

• Here you see all the required parts. 

• Cut off the middle and lower cable pairs from the matrix to avoid electric short circuits. The cables at „DIN“ have to remain. The result is shown here.
• Add the LED matrix in the orientation as shown. 
  
   

• Now continue with the parts in the lid. The new lid looks a little different in the 2025 variant of it as shown above, because it got several new improvements implemented based on users feedback, but you will be able to follow along with the 2024 pictures below very easy too. =) 

• Next strip the 2 USB-C port wires 11mm and push it into its place in the lid. It will click in place with a bit of the force. ;-)
• You will find a 11mm long mark in the case to help you finding the right strip length. See the upper edge in the picture above with the "11".

• Open the 3 Wago clamps and put them into their holders in the lid as shown.
• Remember the 1,2,3 under the clamps as:
  • 1 = red = 5V
  • 2 = black or white = GND
  • 3 = green = DIN

• Add the 2 stripped USB-C port wires to the clamps 1 and 2 as shown and close the clamps on the used slots.

• Add the 3 Female-Male cables like shown to the clamps and close their slots as:
  • 1 = red = 5V
  • 2 = black = GND
  • 3 = green = DIN
• The male pin part of the cable is pushed into the clamps. 

• Add the “female” part of the cables to the ESP32 like shown:
  • VIN = red = 5V
  • GND = black = GND
  • D32 = green = DIN

• Carefully push the ESP32 and the 3 cables with their black posts in to the tight holder part of the lid as shown.
• Route the 3 cables out of the small slots. 
• Secure the ESP32 in place with the 4 M3x8 screws.

• As last part add the with the LED matrix delivered connector to the circuit.
• Do not forget to strip its wires 11mm too. 
• Add the 3 last wires as shown and close the Wago clamps:
  • 1 = red = 5V
  • 2 = white = GND
  • 3 = green = DIN

• Add the USB-C part of the USB-A-to-USB-C cable through its hole in the lid and plug it into the USB-C port like shown. 

• If you followed all instructions carefully, checked them again and check that all clamps are closed. 
• Please add some small cable ties to secure the cables in place. Especially the power cable should be secured in place.
• If you haven't uploaded the code to the board yet, you should perform this action now!

• As last action you have to do is to connect the LED matrix to its connector in the lid.
• Slide the lid carefully together with the front part as shown.
• The lid pushes the matrix down and holds it in place. No tape or glue etc. needed.
• Use the 3 M3x16 screws to fix the lid in place to the front.
• Plug WordClock to its 5V/3A power supply. Follow the WiFi setup video for WordClock.
• Check the function and you finished the WordClock setup.
• Enjoy! =)

Printing instructions:

• 0.2 speed profile used on Prusa MK4S.
• No supports needed for all parts.
• Fuzzy skin for the outside of the front part activated.
• Textured sheet used:
  • If you use a textured sheet too, let it cool down completely after the print and wait for the part gets loose by itself. Do not pull on it to avoid ripping off the letters! 
  • In my case it takes 45-60 minutes after the print has ended and the part just lays loose on the print bed.
  • Do not touch the print bed and clean it with Isopropanol alcohol before printing.
• The option “Avoid crossing perimeters” was set active for the front parts in Prusa Slicer.
• The 4 screws should be printed with 30-50% infill just in case you need to screw them in a little harder. I could use 15% infill good as well. 
• Using a brim was not needed in my tests, because I cleaned my textured sheet with dishwashing liquid carefully with a new sponge and then with isopropanol alcohol again on the printer to make the parts stick really good. If you face problems with adhesion feel free to add a 5mm brim to the front and lid part.
• For this new model I tried some new printing options like shown below:
  • For the front part from 0mm to 2.6mm set the infill to 100% to get a good light seal.
• IMPORTANT: 
  • Two (2) color changes in the front part from black to white and to black again are required at about 1.2mm and 2.6mm height to create the diffuser layer. Why “at about”? Well it depends on your layer height. I used 0.2 layer heigt:
    • 0.2mm = Changes at 1.2mm + 2.6mm
  • Color changes are done in this order:
    • 1st color = black = layer 0 to 1.1mm
    • 2nd color = white = layers 1.2mm to 2.6mm
    • 3rd color = black = layers 2.7mm to the end of the print
  • To read how such a color change is done, you will find a really good article here.
  • See also pictures below:

• 100% infill set from 0-2.6mm

• Color changes at 1.2 and 2.6 mm set.

• Check the result from above…

• and below to see if the diffusor layer will work out!

• Optoinal you can set a similar color change for the lid part too.

• Check the result before printing too. 

For the following details, please refer to the previous model article: WordClock 16x16 - 2024

• Most functions and options are used from the 2023/2024 models, except for the in this reduced model missing extra words and therefore functions like Telegram integration.
• WiFi Setup
• Code download from my GitHub repository.
• Smart Home integration 
• Alternative Smart Home environment integration via Apple shortcuts
• FAQ

Happy printing =)