Shelly Plus 1 Relay PoE Conversion Kit

Overview:

This is a case for a Shelly Plus 1 wireless relay, but with a twist! This model makes your Shelly Plus 1 (or really any Shelly relay that can be powered via 12V DC) PoE-compatible! 

How?

I used a PoE-to-12V DC converter. I've used these at work in the past, they take incoming PoE and convert it to two-wire 12V DC. This is the converter I used (Amazon link, part number is PS5712TG if you don't like links). For space reasons, this model has you crack open the case, and remove the RJ45 dongle for a non-PoE link. I may remix this to keep the whole converter intact, as I know some people don't like fiddling with opening electronics. The 12V DC is then fed to the Shelly relay.

Why?

Shelly just doesn't offer a PoE powered model. Many people will point out that there's “better” ways to power the relay, but I've never liked the “why do you even need that” approach to things like this. Someone out there needs it, and I wanted the option.

• PoE power allows you to run your own power cable to the relay without worrying nearly as much about local regulations (always check these before you run any wire, but in nearly every region running Cat5e or Cat6/6A is less regulated than high voltage)
• You could run 12V DC from a power adapter, but this usually requires splicing the adapter wire, and running it from a wall outlet, which uses up a plug and often looks ugly (or takes a lot of work to look pretty)
• In commercial environments, in addition to looking nicer, it lets you put the relay up in a ceiling outside of staff reach, so no one can intentionally or unintentionally unplug it, providing power from the data room up to ~300 feet away. 
• Not only does this solve the problem of powering the Shelly relay, but it also provides 12V DC for the end-device. This could let you kill two birds with one stone.

For the powered end of devices this usually isn't needed. But for the input side of a custom setup, buttons and switches often don't have power when you're installing them. There are ways around this, but I wanted to provide a PoE approach that looks clean and makes the module tool-less after assembly. 

What You Will Need:

• A PoE to 12V converter (link above is what fits in 2 of the 3 box options, more on that later)
• A Shelly Plus 1 (or any Shelly relay that can be powered with 12V DC)
• x7 6mm M3 socket head screws
• x7 M3 threaded heat set inserts
• x6 WAGO pass-through connectors
• Wire for connecting the Shelly relay to the WAGOs
• A soldering iron or equivalent to install the heat set inserts.

Model Options:

There are three options for the main body, and three options for the lid, all of which are cross-compatible. 

• Lid Option 1: Lid With Relay Info.STL shows the basic functions of each terminal on the relay, as well as an indicator that the device uses PoE, along with the Shelly logo. This is the version shown in the model images.
• Lid Option 2: Lid Shelly Logo Only.STL has just the logo with no extra info.
• Lid Option 3: Lid Blank.STL is self-explanatory, this is just a blank version of the lid, if you want to add your own text or images. 
• Main Body Option 1: Main Body.STL has the geometry for the PoE to 12V board, and the post if your PoE to 12V board has a center standoff hole. The company that makes these sometimes includes a center hole in the circuit board, and sometimes they don't. If yours has the center hole, use this one.
• Main Body Option 2: Main Body No PoE Board Post.STL is the alternate option if your PoE to 12V board does NOT have the center hole in the board. The combination of the lid and the board geometry should keep it nice and snug, but you could also glue it if you're worried.
• Main Body Option 3: Main Body No PoE Board Geometry.STL just removes the geometry entirely, leaving the square hole. This is a good option if you have a different size converter, or don't want to crack open the PoE converter. 

Printer Settings:

• Supports: Yes, for the square ethernet hole only. The rest of the model doesn't need any.
• Infill: I did 100% for a nice sturdy feel, but you could get away with less.
• Brim: Yes
• Layer Height: I used 0.16mm, but there's no reason you couldn't do 0.20mm for speed or 0.12 mm for detail.
• Add a pause on the lid if you are doing option 1 or 2, if you'd like to change the text color.

If you have feedback, feel free to send it to me! I do this as a hobby, so I'm sure there's better ways to accomplish something like this, and hearing from people who have made the models I've designed has made me better at it.