Hypercube Evolution Direct Drive Hotend

Hypercube Evolution Direct Drive Hotend

*Updated May 5 2025*

Highlights:

• Assembled to “original” 8mm X-axis rods, 45mm spacing
• Compact direct drive, minimal (if any) volume loss
• Easier belt assembly and tensioning
• Neopixel leds for printer status
• EBB36 for lighter/thinner cabling (optional)

Please note:

• STL are in recommended print orientation
• STEP file of assembly available
• Screws, nuts and inserts not represented in 3D file: requires metalic thread inserts, several screw sizes and 5mm diameter pin rods. See fastener list below.
• Wiring routing suggestion: please see photos of assembled hotend
• 2025/05/01 I have redesigned the ebb36_spacer to include a PUG attachment, in order to avoid stress at the CAN connector

 Contact if you need assembly instructions

Printed Parts:

Support blockers:

Fan Duct Part

Hotend Plate

Fasteners:

Insert and nut placement:

X-Carriage:

1: M3 5mm long inserts (x6)

2: Steel pins 5mm dia 10mm long (x4)

3: M3 nut (x2)

Belt Locks:

1: M3 5mm long inserts

Hotend_plate:

1: Insert M3 4mm long (x4) - can be 3mm long

2: Insert M3 3mm long (x2)

3: Insert M2.5 3mm long (x2)

4: Insert M2.5 3mm long (x3)

5: M4 hexagonal nut (x2)

Assembly info

X-carriage:

• install threaded metal inserts
• position hexagonal nuts
• Install bearings (two LM8LUU or 4 LM8UU) (already installed to the rods)
• position tensioners (please note right position). Tensioners must run smoothly but will not fall down easily!
• position tensioners screws. Do not tighten (tensioners must be all to the left)
• Insert belts through openings on tensioner side
• position belts under left belt_lock and screw belt lock in place
• Right side: attach belts to belt_holder
  • Make a loop (belt dents “locking together”) and slide into position
  • Both belts must be equally tensioned
• Slide belt_holder in place. This must need some tensioning, but not much. Belts should be equally tensioned
• You can now make a first test of the belts tension (follow instructions from Voron, for instance). If belts are too  tight (or way too loose), you will need to remove belt_holder and adjust the belt loops. If belts are a bit loose, you can adjust the screws of the belt tensioners.
• When things look ok, screw the right belt_lock in place. Final tension adjustment can be done later, using the belt tensioner screws.
• Part cooling fan (5015, Sunon recommended) and the fan duct are assemble to the X-carriage. To assemble the duct, you need to lower the bed a lot. The fan is screwed to the belt locks
  • Note that not all radial 5015 fans have the exact same dimensions! I used a SUnon (hopefully original).

Hotend Plate

• Start by screwing the hotend in place (4 screws), leave the “long” side of the heat block to the front. Check if the hotend is centered. Heater and thermistor cables should be on the opposite side to the integrated 3010 fan duct
• Assemble optical sensor. Please check size, some optical sensor are too tall and may hit the X-carriage when assembling
• Assemble 3D touch
• Assemble 3010 fan
• Rather tricky part… place the neopixel leds in the hotend_cover. Assemble illuminated symbol and light enclosure and assemble to the hotend plate.
• You should check your wiring now. I left some openings here and there to guide cables (see pictures). If you do use the EBB36, attach it to the back of the hotend plate before routing the cables.
•  
• NEW PARTS !!! EBB_Spacer_PUG and EBB_Spacer_PUG_lock should be used instead of EBB36_spacer.
  • These new parts allow for the use of a PUG to hold the umbilical cable and avoid stress on the CAN connector. IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO USE THE NEW PARTS. I had stress problems already. 
  • You will need at least one zip tie (for the base of the PUG), optionally a second to hold better the Spacer itself (using the holes in the hotend plate). Depending on the PUG you choose (see below) you will need another ziptie or two screws.
  • You need also to choose a PUG size depending on your cable. I used teh Short model, Ziptie loop, and printed in TPU. Choose your here: https://www.printables.com/model/378567-pug-parametric-umbilical-gland
  •  
• Measure and cut a piece of bowden tube and assemble the extruder. Beware of the bowden tube length. Note that some cables run betwee the extruder and the Hotend plate. Check that you can open the extruder side door.
• Finally, assemble the extruder bracket (you need a bowden tube clip set also).
  • OPTION HERE: You can print the new v2 parts (two parts instead of one), if you want to guide the bowden tube a little bit better If you do so, you can use the ziptie listed above to hold both the spacer as well as the extruder bracket to the hotend plate.
  • When assembling the bracket, check if the bowden tube hole aligns well with the extruder hole, so the bowden can be inserted easily to the end. If not, use a spacer to align!!

Pending further instructions

• Sideview showing dragon hotend installation position

Final Assembly looks (updated May 2025)

-direct drive, TBG lite extruder

-dragon hotend

-5mm pins

-eaaier belt assembly and tensioning

-ebb36 breakout board

-two m4 screws to hold in place

-5015 fan behind x-carriage