SMILEY - Nightingale Magfed Bolt Action Blaster

INTRO

I'm beyond excited to introduce you to SMILEY, the result of months of hard work to create the best bolt-action Nerf blaster this hobby has ever seen!! SMILEY is a collaboration project with renowned hobby designer MrHeathPants to remix his fantastic shellfed Wrenfield Mk3 design for standard half-dart magazines. We hope you love this blaster platform as much as we do!

FEATURES

• Sick Ass Bolt-Action
• 80mm, Talon Claw length of draw packs a serious punch!
• Snazzy, ergonomic design
• Compatible with Nightingale half-dart magazines (Short Angled Talon). Features a Brass pusher breech for a smooth seal and reliable feeding!
• =)
• Cheap, minimal-hardware design with toolless spring and barrel swapping
• Compatible with many lengths of spring, using tuning spacers!
• Rigid, flat-printed design that requires only 1kg of filament
• Innovative MHP plunger-in-grip mechanism
• Customizable options for Stock and Handguard!
• Compatible with Seagull picatinny rails!
• Reliable performance between 100fps and 230fps depending on spring and barrel setup
• Each SMILEY build contains a piece of my soul =)

HARDWARE

Hardware can be easily acquired in Metric or Imperial!

• #6 button head sheet metal screws, cut to length with tips sanded smooth:
  • 2x 5mm
  • 6x 8mm
    • 2x additional if using Standard Stock
  • 6x 20mm
    • 2x additional if using Standard Stock
  • 7x 30mm
    • 2x additional if using Nstrike Stock
  • 5x 35mm
  • Metric alternative: M3.5 button head sheet metal screws, lengths as specified

• 2x M3 button head machine screws
  • 1x 45mm, for upper connection between Grip and Receiver
  • 1x 40mm, for lower connection between Grip and Receiver
• 3x M3 nuts
  • For connection between Grip and Receiver, and Bolt Handle Bell.
• 4x M3 countersunk machine screws, 10mm long
  • For Trigger Guard, and Bolt Handle Bell
• 1x M8 socket cap bolt, 40mm long
  • For Bolt Handle
• 1x M8 Nylock nut
  • For Bolt Handle
• 3x 6D nails, cut to 30mm pins. 
  • For Bolt Handle Cam, Bolt Pin, and Ram Pin
  • Any 3mm diameter metal pin is useable.
• 1x metal pin, 3/16" x 1.5" 
  • For toolless spring swapping on the Spring Rest
  • Hitch pin, clevis pin, or similar. 
  • Same dimensions as Talon Claw / Caliburn pins. Not compatible with Lynx pins, they are too short.
  • Metric alternative: 5mm x 40mm.

• 2x/EA M3 countersunk screws, 10mm long
  • For Picatinny Rail mounting, maximum 10x. 
  • Handguard screws can be 12mm.
• 2x/EA M3 nuts
  • For Pic Rail mounting, maximum 10x.
• 2x/EA M3 washers
  • For Pic Rail on Handguard, max 7x.

• 2 Dash-110 O-Rings
  • 3/8" ID, 9/16" OD
  • For Bolt & Ram face seal
• 3 standard Dash-123 O-Rings
  • 1-3/16" ID, 1-3/8" OD
  • For Plunger & Ram
• 2 Dash-016 O-Rings
  • 5/8" ID, 3/4" OD
  • For Barrel retention
• 2 Dash-012 O-Rings
  • 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD
  • [FOR O-RING BREECH ONLY]
• Padding material for plunger head. I like felt furniture feet, but rubber gaskets are also good.

• 2 small springs, <6mm OD and 20mm long
  • For Catch & Mag Release
  • Can use pen springs.
• 1/2" k&s brass tube, cut to 12mm
  • For Pusher
  • [FOR BRASS BREECH ONLY]
• 17/32" k&s brass tube, cut to 35mm
  • For Breech
  • [FOR BRASS BREECH ONLY]

• 4" length of 1.5" OD, 1.375" ID polycarbonate tubing
  • standard plunger tube material, used on HYPR/Red Herring/Rush/SLAB/ESPER
• Mainspring, Talon Claw-compatible, roughly 6" / 14cm. Can also use 11" / 28cm springs, or any length between.
  • Fits K25, K26, 788, K31.
  • Does not fit Longshot or Lynx springs, they are too wide.
  • Tunable with spacers.
• 5/8" / 16mm OD Barrel, length variable depending on mainspring. 
  • Talon Claw-length barrel, 12" / 30cm, is a good start.

HARDWARE KITS

Hardware kits are now available from the following sellers!!

• https://silverfoxindustries.shop/collections/new-products/products/smiley-by-mightyshrub-hardware-kit
  • Full kit from Silverfox Industries! 
  • Machines metal bolt handles sold separately.
• https://silverfoxindustries.shop/collections/new-products/products/smiley-machined-metal-bolt-handle
  • Machined metal bolt handles from Silverfox Industries!
• https://outofdarts.com/collections/mighty-shrub
  • Full hardware kits and pre-built blasters available from Out Of Darts! 
  • Machined bolt handles sold separately.
• https://outofdarts.com/products/smiley-cnc-bolt-arm-handle-upgrade
  • Machined metal bolt handles available from Out of Darts!
• https://1000screws.square.site/product/smiley-hardware-kit-canada-version-/24?cp=true&sa=true&sbp=false&q=false
  • Hardware kits from 1000Screws in Canada! 
  • Does not include a machined bolt handle.
• https://www.ak-blastermod.com/product-page/smiley-blaster-by-mighty-shrub-hardware-kit
  • Hardware kits and printed parts with machined metal components available from AK Blaster Mod.
  • NOTE: The hardware sold by AK Blaster Mod is not compatible with the original SMILEY design. You will have to use the print files provided by AKBM.

TOOLS REQUIRED

General

• Screwdriver
• 6mm Hex Key (for M8 socket cap screw)
• Superglue
  • Substitute: Some other strong glue
• Nerf Blaster Lubricant
• Sharp Knife
• Deburring Tool
  • Substitute: Knife, File, Sandpaper
• Sandpaper
• A small drill bit is nice to clean out the 3mm pin holes and highly recommended!

For Fabricating Hardware

• Printed Cutting Guides (see the Accessories folder in the Files). These will greatly help with fabricating the screws, pins, and brass to the proper lengths!
• Bolt cutters
  • Substitutes: Hacksaw or Dremel Tool, Wire Cutters in a pinch
• Pipe cutter
  • Substitutes: Hackaw or Dremel Tool
• Pipe Reamer
  • Substitutes: Deburring Tool, Sandpaper and your sanity
• Hand File

PRINT SETTINGS

• Orient parts as indicated in the photo gallery.
• All parts should print with at least 5 Walls and 10 Top/Bottom Layers. I recommend much higher for optimal strength. At proper settings, SMILEY should require approximately 800-1,000 grams of filament to print, including supports.
• The Bolt Arms receive all the priming force, and should therefore be printed very strong. Maximum Walls, maximum Top/Bottom Layers, printed slow and hot to ensure bonding. The Bolt Handle should be printed similarly.
• Support Overhangs in the following locations:
  • The Plunger Tube channel of both Grip pieces.
  • On the Grip, lower screw connection between Grip and Receiver.
  • On the Receiver, lower screw connection between Grip and Receiver.
  • Inner lip of the Plunger.
  • Barrel of Handguard.
  • Pusher [IF O-RING BREECH]
  • Others as desired. Besides the above, the design should have minimal overhangs that require support.
• This blaster is reliant on the strength of continuous flat-printed parts. Therefore, I don't recommend using filament with additives, such as silk filaments, because they interfere with part strength.

BUILD GUIDE

https://youtu.be/HqF5t1AIqwk?si=eAqiClzZJ7rP2CP2

Build Guide provided by Out Of Darts! Huge props for the great video 🫠

TIPS ON ASSEMBLY AND USE

• THIS IS NOT A BEGINNER BUILD! I strongly recommend prior blaster assembly and tuning experience.
• See the photo gallery for the placement of screws and pins.
• This blaster is designed with tight tolerances in mind. It's gonna feel bad when you first print it. This is intentional - after cycling the blaster repeatedly, it will feel very smooth.
• The brass pieces [IF USED] must be glued. Sand the gluing surfaces of the Pusher, Pusher Tip, and Breech, then use superglue and let it set. If you do not do this, you may shoot the Pusher Tip out of the blaster and hurt someone.
• The Breech and Pusher can be "sticky", leading to a worse feel when cycling the bolt. This can be mitigated by manually inserting and removing the Pusher into the Breech before assembly. [APPLIES TO BOTH BRASS AND O-RING BREECH]
• The Pusher uses two O-Rings to seal into the Breech [APPLIES TO O-RING BREECH].
• The face sealing O-Rings for the Ram and Pusher must be glued into place. Roughen the gluing surfaces of the O-Rings, then use super glue to fix them onto the printed parts.
• When inserting the screws for the first time, use the "plastic tapping" technique - drive the screws in for two rotations, then back them out for half a rotation. This will allow the screw to cut threads into the plastic without cracking the parts. Do not overtighten screws, as this will strip the holes or even shear the screw heads.
• Lubricate the rotation points of the Priming Arms, the Plunger Tube, the Plunger, the Bolt, the Catch, the Trigger, the Mag Catch, and the O-Rings that seal the Ram to the Pusher. If using an O-Ring Breech, lubricate the Pusher O-Rings. If using a Brass Breech, do not lubricate.
• Installing the pins may require some force. Use a heavy object (hammer, metal bottle, etc) to gently tap the pins into place. Using a small drill bit may help to widen the pin holes slightly, but take care not to drill the holes too wide. Install the Bolt Pin before driving the 5mm screws into the Bolt.
• This blaster will never have a “perfect” air seal. The performance can still be fantastic and consistent with a little tuning, but the system will leak a little bit of air. I recommend experimenting with the various Plunger geometries provided and using plenty of lubricant. Most of the air loss will occur at the Plunger and at the face seal between the Ram and Pusher.
• When priming high springloads, I recommend using your thumb to brace the Bolt. This will counteract the flexing of the Bolt and Bolt Handle. If you are using a printed Bolt Handle and are not careful, it can snap and hurt you!

SHOUT-OUTS:

Massive thanks to the following, in no particular order: MrHeathPants, Ikaaris, DamageReport, LagDragon, Hotkoin, RedCowl, Doublestriker, Goop, Je, NetRunner, ThatBirdThey, ThePixelatedCat, Cerberus, Cass, Takedownviable, TuskZ, Muffinbat, Rotary20, DreadPirateRobertsIV, UniJumper, Deathtree, KineticTurtle, VileMods, Thanhtacles, Leedle, Lavender, Perry, Luke, Luchathor, Out Of Darts, Zeph, my parents, and finally my beautiful and amazing partner <3

CHANGELOG:

2025.09.17:

• Added an O-Ring Breech! The Pusher prints flat with supports on the tip. Breech prints vertically. See the STEP file in the “Alternate Files” folder.

2025.07.09:

• Updated the main STEP assembly to not be freaky weakied OwO

2025.06.12:

• Listed additional sellers!
• Listed Out Of Darts build guide video!

2025.04.23:

• Revised the screw placement guide in the photo gallery. Added the 35mm screw reinforcing the Hanguard Mount, and the M3 countersunk screws that fasten the Picatinny rail.

2025.04.16:

• The 17/32" brass should be cut to 35mm, oopsie teehee
• Updated the Cutting Guide - Brass file accordingly
• Added a Plunger Tube Holder, which provide clamping points for safe cutting. Print 2 or more. Cut safely, measure twice cut once!!

2025.04.11:

• Added an alternate STEP file for SMILEY, the “dripless variant”, for making your own aesthetic remixes!
• Added Cutting Guides for the brass and fasteners, for folks who want to self-fabricate hardware =)
• Added a BOM as a PDF file, with McMaster links to most of the hardware.
• Slight file reorganizing

2025.04.06 - REVISION R1.1:

• Added Bolt Bell and a printable Bolt Handle to the files.
• Slightly adjusted the Bolt part.

2025.04.01:

• I forgot an M3 nut lol whoops
• I pinky promise this isn't an April Fools =)

2025.03.30:

• Added a SMILEY Keychain to the files!
• Added a STEP file of the SMILEY logo, for whatever devious purposes you may think up =)

Major overhaul remix of the Wrenfield Mk3 by MrHeathPants. Significant changes to every part, notably a completely custom receiver and handguard. Remixed to take Nightingale (Short Angled Talon) magazines in a brass breech.

Uses RedCowl's excellent collet system for barrel swaps. Additionally uses RedCowl's Seagull Picatinny Rails.

One of the alternate Plunger geometries uses the O-Ring groove of the Rush by the designer ShoelessHistorian, also known as Je!

Brass pusher breech is heavily inspired by the excellent work of Doublestriker, otherwise known as PerformanceMods on Etsy.