EEW Cone Winder modification to wind tubes

MUST HAVE EEW CONE WINDER TO USE THIS.  THIS IS AN ADD ON!

You have to align the machine on the base to one side or the other so that you have a strong reference point to ensure that your calibration markings on the paper become “repeatable” settings.   Otherwise, if you sometimes align it to one side or the other, your markings won't “work” and you'll have to recalibrate each time.   The holes in the base used to align to the winder, but they may not be in the “right” spot because of this alignment requirement.   Another option is to screw the base and winder down to a board before calibration so that they don't move.   The calibration is very sensitive…1mm off can mess up the winding.

Also, the distance between the guide and the winder makes a difference.   We never figured out the true science to this - we figured it out by trial and error and this is partially why there's a long piece with lots of holes so that we weren't reprinting the part to get this figured out.   We didn't do lots of scientific experiments to see if further or closer would be better.  We got a setting that worked and moved on.     The same hole works for both Maurice Brassard and the longer Bockens or Venne tubes.

An “easier” way would have been to center the tube on the threaded rod.   The issue there is that you'd need adjust two end stops (left and right).   In that case, you wouldn't need the thread guide, since we assume that the standard guide would work.  However, by doing it our way, we take advantage of the automatic “turnaround” on the one end of the winder.   Also, if you look, the wind pattern is different on the side with the drive band and the other side.   We tried winding using the side closer to the power switch, but found that using the side with the drive band was better (maybe because of the closer wind pattern?).   

Note - we did not test, but we assume that this “mod” will not work without use of our tube ends.   The tube (without modification) is too large and is unlikely to work without some sort of support.   There are multiple ways of providing that support so that the tube remains centered on the threaded rod.   We only tried our method because we have a forth coming spool rack that will also require it.

The tube MUST rotate freely - do not tighten the tube on the threaded rod such that it cannot move.   The tube has to rotate to wind the yarn.  We have no scientific explanation for why the bearings don't allow the tube to turn.   

Parts you'll need from the store (we get our stuff from Amazon, but you get it whereever you want):

• Part1- 5mm threaded rod 250mm - I had 2 so I made one “holder” for Maurice Brassard tubes and one for the Bockens/Venne tubes
• Part2- 5mm nuts - you need 4, but get a pack of at least 10, just in case.
• Part3- R62RS Bearings (same as on the original device) - 3/8"x7/8"x9/32"
• Part4-5mm hex bolts - 25-30mm long
• Part5-4mm - approx 60-70mm - note that we used a steel rod because we had it on hand.  If you don't have it on hand, you could consider a wood dowel or similar.   Note that the height is somewhat of an important factor.   This is why we made it a hole where you could adjust up and down a wee bit.

Other 3D printed parts you'll need:

• Part6-Choose your favorite knob here:   https://www.printables.com/model/359479-handles-for-m3-to-m6-bolts-and-screws
• Part7-Tube Arm: https://www.printables.com/model/306540-eew-cone-winder-parts/files  (If your slicer will auto orient the arm, it'll probably be tipped at a 45degree angle - weird but this does work and yes, it needs support, despite the weird angle.   You could try a different angle since, either way, you'll need support)